So, here's the thing.

My clutch slips, sometimes bad, sometimes not. It used to not even be noticeable. Until the other night.

I was on the Interstate, and went to pass someone, and I was in 5th gear (5spd manual, btw), and when I got into the gas, the tach went up several hundred before "catching", as if I had the clutch pedal partially in. When it "caught", it felt just like if I had really just been "half-clutching", and let the pedal out the "rest" of the way.

Lately, I'm starting to notice that it is getting to the point where it's worse more often than not. First gear is almost a joke at this point, because I have to take it all the way to 5-6k for my speed to be enough for 2nd gear, or just plain start in 2nd gear, which I hate doing.

Do I have air in my lines? Is there a such thing as "tightening" my clutch? If this is a possible DIY fix, I really seriously hope there is a detailed write-up for this, because my car has already met its mechanic quota for the year. (see sig lol)

Thanks in advance,
-tyler

(EDIT: i should add that the clutch pedal itself has about the same resistance as my gas pedal.)

 

if a clutch slips it needs to be replaced...pretty sure.
"clutch adjustment" only adjusts how soon the clutch engages/disengages or in other words "how much clutch is left on the pedal".

 

Air in the lines would affect disengagement, not whether or not the clutch would engage at rest.

You can try adjusting your pedal, it may help some, but it sounds like your clutch is on it's last legs. It's possible, like you said, that the pedal was never properly adjusted, but not if it's been getting worse.

 

unfortunately, it sounds like you need a new clutch.

has it ever been replaced before?

usually when people test to see if a clutch is bad or is slipping, they get into the highest gear (in our case, 5th gear), and floor it. if the tach shoots up but acceleration is slow or non-existent, then you know that the clutch is bad.

 

How many miles are on this clutch? Starting from 2nd probably doesn't help either. Sounds like a bad clutch.

 

i don't know if it's ever been replaced, but definitely not in the last 2 years.

i have actually done this "test" without knowing. the results:

sometimes, the tach jumps a few hundred, but DOES accelerate, slowly, but the clutch doesn't slip the whole time. it seems like it's worst when the car is cold. but it ALWAYS catches after like 2 seconds TOPS. usually not even that long. just enough to make me curious.

i should add that the clutch pedal itself has about the same resistance as my gas pedal...i don't know if that's good or not, some people say it is, some people say it should be stiff. but the same group of people say a stiff clutch is bad.

obviously i know nothing about clutches, just that they enable you to shift. lol.

 

how many miles are on your car total?

 

~125k, previous owner was a mechanic

 

sounds about time for a clutch change

 

is this the verdict? if so, should i use the opportunity to upgrade to a performance clutch? apparently i'm rough on my clutch, it worked perfectly fine a year ago...

i prefer to be able to fix my current one, if it's cost effective to do so, that is.

 

The only way to fix a burnt clutch is to replace it.

I'd recommend the OE 5th gen clutch, from Dave it's around $200, IIRC.

 

wow, 5th gen clutches fit? any modification needed? and is it just the 2000-2001? i wouldn't think a 6spd clutch would fit, but like i said i know next to nothing about clutches...

 

^^
yes i belive its a direct fit.(2000-2001)

and honestly if you have the tools and some common sense it isnt to hard of job. The hardest part of it is probley just getting off some of the stubborn bolts and lineing the trans back up(i was able to do it by myself and i am a small guy. the trans almost weight just as much as me). and save you lots of $$$ if you diy. You would probley pay a mechanic at least 500 dollars and im low balling that

 

The 5th gen clutches are a direct bolt on (mind you, same exact trans, 99% identical engine).

They hold a bit more power than the 4th gen clutch, and are relatively cheap. Relatively common 'mod'.

 

awesome! i'll prolly be able to come across a good write-up on this. the insurance money i got when they "totalled" my car is going to good use.

 

Yea dude as everyone said, your clutch is slipping and on its way out. get an Exedy direct replacement or 2000-2001 oe maxima clutch.

If you're gonna do it yourself, replace the rear main seal/bracket while you're at it. IF its leaking of course otherwise...if it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

^^^^
usually only the half moon seal would need replacement. But yeah not a bad idea if its leaking and its sitting right in front of your face.

Ive made the mistake of replacing the whole rms and half moon seal with out droping the upper pan

But like you said if it aint leaking dont touch it.

 

that's a great idea...but it's not leaking. hopefully it won't go out a couple months after i replace the clutch.

it's crunch time, and i just called orly's and ordered a new clutch (2000-1 OEM Replacement, Dynapack brand - lifetime warranty), and it set me back $138.25. Not bad, and if it's good enough for orly, it's good enough for me.

 

A slipping clutch will typically pull LESS as it slips more, so it won't act like a torque converter (slip then catch). This is really strange behavior, especially you having to rev to 5-6k in order for it to catch. This shouldn't make it catch any better, and should just be burning your clutch more.

Slipping clutch behavior would be more of just "letting go" when you get on it, i.e. you're at 3k in fifth and step on it, it slowly slips to 4k and then more quickly rockets towards redline, the car pulling less the more the clutch is slipping.

However you do need a new clutch.

 

i vote 5th gen OE.

 

Indeed, but by OE, we mean...OE, not some aftermarket part.

 

What does the $138 get you??

Pressure Plate also?? Do we need Throwout Bearings in these? Still new to the Max.

If the plate ios include forget what I said. If not,

I would never replace a clutch without the pressure plate since it may have 125K on it.

Plus look at the flywheel surface before you just throw the clutch in. I know if will take a couple days to get it refurfaced, but putting a nice new clutch on a rough flywheel is throwing good money after bad.

Just my 2 cents.

 

More than likely it's a full clutch kit.

Yes, almost every single manual vehicle has a traditional style throwout bearing. We do have one.

 

After I wrote it I realized my mistake. I was thinking of the Pilot bearing. I knew everone needs a Throwout bearing. And it would be really dumb not to replace that also.

the Pilot bearing seems to be hit or miss on Japanese cars. I'm coming from the Honda/Acura world which doesn't always use them. Wasn't sure about Nissan.

 

Depends on the Nissan, really.

The FWD VQs don't need a pilot bearing/bushing; the input shaft on the trans doesn't reach out far enough.

The RWD VQs, however, do.

As far as everything else, I'm sure it's a case by case basis.

 

shxt...what's the difference? it feels great!

Full clutch kit, everything looks and feels great.

Yeah, I wouldn't have bought it any other way...

 

Reliability. And the knowledge that it is indeed designed for the output of the DE-K, and not just an A32 clutch with a different label and a higher price tag.

 

ur supposed to drop the pan to replace the rear main.. meaning you need to replace both the front and rear at the same time... i would NOT recommend just replacing the rear w/o dropping the pan.. the seal simply doesnt wanna fit..

 

my mechanic said he'd have to charge extra labor to check the rear main, as he didn't intend to remove the flywheel, which he would have to do in order to gain access.

 

He should take off the flywheel regardless to resurface it, but then again how much is he charging you?

 

519 total, that's with a "repeat customer discount" lol