Hey Everyone,

Does anyone happen to know what the problem is?

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t=MVI_1160.flv

The first sound started to happen after my ABS light turned on yesterday morning.

The second sound after i turn off the engine has been there for months but it just started to have that knocking/rock like sound.

If anyone knows what is wrong please let me know.

Thanks!

 

Definitely could be your mounts, are you an auto?

 

Yeah it's auto. Would you happen to know the cost to fix?

I tried to look it up but couldn't really find a estimate.

 

my car sounds different when i turn it off, but it could be the same thing i dont know, last time when i was cleaning my throttle body my cousin was asking me what happens when you turn the car on when you don't have the intake, of course i should him, when i started the car i forgot that i had not put the tp sensor, i think thats what its called. when i turn the car off it started to make the sound and it was coming from the tp sensor, here are some pics so you could see what I'm talking about and find out if it is the tp sensor. hope that this helps you.

 

the tp sensor is under the throttle body

 

Would the TP Sensor cause the ABS light to turn on?

It would make a bit more sense because i didn't have this problem until after my ABS light.

 

That sounds very similar to when one of the electric mounts in our Murano went bad. They are very expensive to replace ($600.00 at the dealer). In our case I told the dealer to just unplug them.

Apparently you can unplug them and won't notice much difference in vibration (didn't notice any vibration with one unplugged in the Murano).

I have read that if the electric mounts start to go they can cause electrical damage to the ECU and they make that sound before they finally go.

I plan to just unplug mine as soon as I hear that noise from my I30!

 

I just went through a major IACV ECU motor mount ABS experience with my 2001 Maxima this summer. Hope I can help with just some keywords here to attract others to help.

I inherited this car from my wife, it was first car she ever kept after payments were over. She loved it. I owned 2, 20 year useful van/truck vehicles and sold one to take her hand me down.
A couple weeks later, the abs light came on. I read with my home built scanner that the right rear brake sensor was faulty. Since the car was new to me, I noticed a humming when turning on the key. research here said it was ABS 'unloading itself, as it was faulty'. So I put up with it
Months later my IACV shorted, blew ECU, and I then related buzz to be bad mount.
I fixed ECU, IACV, and now confirmed buzz on pre start, is ABS unloading.
Not my mounts.
I unplugged them anyway.
I rebuilt my ECU, and will help others with theirs.

 

Went to my mechanic today and was told it is normal.

I'll be going to another mechanic tomorrow and will update everyone if i find the problem.

Btw, The car is auto and has 141K on it. Still runs and pulls great.

 

i think it is caused by electric motor mounts.

 

that's the IACV. The TPS is on the side of the Throttle Body....

 

It definitely sounds like the mounts. Here is a link with pictures of where the clips are if you want to unplug them. I have had mine unplugged for ~1 year with no problems.

Not sure how the ABS plays in, but if you unplug the monts the sound should go away. The dealer quoted me $600 to replace them. There is a TSB on it, but I can't find it right now...

 

UPDATE: Replaced the rear driver side ABS wheel speed sensor and the buzzing noise has stopped. I will re-update if i hear anything tomorrow.

Thanks for everyone's help and input.

 

good to hear that, how much did it cost to fix it.

 

$225

 

thanks for that correction now i know whats wrong with my car

 

I guess I should record and post my abs unloading sound. I can't imagine the IACV being heard in the car with the windows up like my abs. Also my sound is right in the area of the ABS device with all the brake lines coming out. And my likely good mounts are unplugged. In a 7 year old hand me down, I notice no unwanted idle vibration. I am used to my 20 year vehicles like my '89 toyota 4 cyl pickup.
And yes the picture is of the IACV of which I became intimately involved with. The TPS is just a potentiometer, like an analog volume control, it can't make hearable noise. (Except electrically made wiper noise in circuit).

 

I didn't drive the max today but i did start it and let it warm up. No sound as of yet.

My mechanic did say my front mount is a little weak but it's not that serious.

I will be doing a ECU reset tomorrow since i am idling at 1100 rpm cold and 900 rpm warm.

 

I'd like to know how the dealer knows the mount is 'weak'.
I'm sure my mounts are fine, and am curious to see how much less vibration there is with them connected or disconnected, and fuse them per my earlier post. Don't hold your breath, my next venture is finding why 5th gen cars are uninspectable due to rust to some victims. Roads are heavily salted here, so during the summer, I plan to go all over it and decide to keep or dump it.

And why do only the auto tranny cars have them? Is it because, unlike a manual xmission, when it is in gear, it is torquing slightly and you feel the engine?
I still remember the early days of v6 engines, not being viable, unbalanced etc. I think it was Buick that had the first v6 that was tolerable. (I was around in the first energy crisis).

If I were you, I'd not make any changes, see if the abs fix is ok for a few days, and not muddy the waters by fixing other things along the way. Then deal with your idle, which seems in the ballpark.
If your dealer means your mount is in danger of failing, I would certainly unplug them, or risk blowing your ecu.

 

Thanks for making this video/audio clip,,,,i've been trying to explain this noise to my mechanic - now i can show him. i had this noise/problem for a few months and then it stopped all of a sudden last month. I never had any dash lights/check engine light come on or any other indication of any prob since. So far so good, i haven't heard it up to now but i will ask my mechanic after he listens to the clip.

 

 

To sum up my experience: I still have the whirring sound every time I turn the key on. It is my 'abs unloading' as I've been told. My engine mounts are unplugged, so it is not them.

The system, when sensing my faulty right rear tone sensor, shuts down the ABS.

Don't go nuts in the wrong direction. Buzzing mounts is another story.

Unplug them anyway, I don't care if I hear the engine, the stereo is louder anyway.