Bose surround sound
Bose surround sound
Hey org. members... i am really curious about this is it possible to turn your 4th gen maxima from a 6 speaker to a 10 speaker system by throwing the front bose speakers into the rear doors with the tweeters and still keep the stock HU
May be
Audio and Electronics (2 Viewing)
Discuss in-car entertainment systems, audio and video systems, car alarms and other electronics topics.
could help you out eaisier
Audio and Electronics (2 Viewing)
Discuss in-car entertainment systems, audio and video systems, car alarms and other electronics topics.
could help you out eaisier
U know I was thinking along those lines. My max is a gxe trim with se stuff. So I don't have sunroof or the Bose system and as we know without the Bose or a sub in the trunk, the stock speakers sound like crap. So I have thought about how hard it would be to put the Bose system in. I know it will be a pain as far as installing the Bose wire harness for the speakers. I just want something simple but sound real good. For us to use 6x9 for that good bass, we gotta cut stuff up. Those 6.5 speakers only sound good if they are components getting amplified, other u will only get mids/highs. Imma look at a Bose max at the junkyard
Okay so, i want to start off by saying wow. An audio thread in the 4th gen forums... What a relief i thought today was going to be on of those plain ole everyone does what their supposed to days!
Oh and just to answer anyone who says go aftermarket, No; 1. Hes trying to stay as close to stock as possible, 2. BOSE is cheaper and sounds Great with a small Modification, and 3. with an aftermarket system you have a few more problems and things to buy! An Amp, Speakers, Wiring Kits, Line Output Converter for the amplifier in the back, and to top all that off.. THEY CAN GET STOLEN! I'd PAY to see some stump jumping moron pull out the stock speakers from a Maxima. PITA, and NOT WORTH IT TO THEM! Besides you can get all of the stuff you needed in a few days, and from the Junkyard!
But i wont be a D*** ill help you guys out. First off, your talking about making multiple components run off of a 4 channel head unit, so as long as you don't mind having the same channels in the back seats as the front everythings peachy.
Well, you want to stay stock huh? Okay thats doable.. First off you need to know that the stock BOSE Radio is completely unamplified, the outputs are Low Level. The speakers have their own amplifiers at the speaker.
So Thats Good Right? So what I personally did with my Indash Navi and such with only 2V Pre-outs was, buy a Split-3003 by Audiopipe off of Ebay. With it you will need probably around 10 RCA Connectors, just go to your junk drawer and see what you've got, and if you have to go out to some place that would sell RCA connections which is pretty much anywhere; cut them in half splice the wires onto your existing positive and negative wires from your head unit (Label them for the love of god!), plug them into the Splitter and do the same for the opposing wires. The SPLIT-3003 kinda looks like this with a whopping total of 6 Channel Inputs and 12 Outputs On the Splitter they are labeled as Front, Rear, and Sub.
Link to Product Description: http://www.caraudiochannel.com/lates...amplifier.html
My audio thread about this splitter on AVIC411.com: http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&p=180785
FRS FRS
IN OUT1
| | | | | |
________
| SPLIT |
|_3003__|
| | | | | |
OUT2 OUT3
FRS FRS
The beauty of this Splitter is it is also an inexpensive line driver capable of making your existing outputs into anywhere from 4-8V
!!! AND! it also gives your lines a 12 dB Boost!
Seriously guys my BlOwSE has never sounded so good, i can crank my volumes up to the absolute loudest i can with my Navi and its Crystal Clear, and thats really fricken loud.
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOPIPE-MULTI-...d=p3286.c0.m14
Go ahead take out your stock HU, and using this diagram splice the wires such and youll be running wires from the Pre-outs on the second or third set of Line outs and running them back to your door speakers. Give the Splitter a good ground, a Power Source and Connect the blue wire to the Turn On wire. And to top this all off you can PROBABLY fit the Splitter behind your stock headunit I know I fit mine behind my indash and its deeper than the stock headunit, and its Jungle of Wires back there! That should be It!~
Constant 12V+ : Pink/Blue
Switched 12V+ : Blue/Black
Ground Vehicle : Chassis
Illumination : Red/Blue
Dimmer : Red/Orange
Antenna Trigger : Black/Red
Antenna Right Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) : Blue/White
Left Front (-) : Blue/Yellow
Right Front (+) : Brown
Right Front (-) : Brown/White
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) : Red
Left Rear (-) : Green
Right Rear (+) : Blue
Right Rear (-) : Pink
For some reason not all the wiring info is showing up so! heres a link to crutchfield.
Link: http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Suppo...issan%20Maxima
Any Questions?
Oh and just to answer anyone who says go aftermarket, No; 1. Hes trying to stay as close to stock as possible, 2. BOSE is cheaper and sounds Great with a small Modification, and 3. with an aftermarket system you have a few more problems and things to buy! An Amp, Speakers, Wiring Kits, Line Output Converter for the amplifier in the back, and to top all that off.. THEY CAN GET STOLEN! I'd PAY to see some stump jumping moron pull out the stock speakers from a Maxima. PITA, and NOT WORTH IT TO THEM! Besides you can get all of the stuff you needed in a few days, and from the Junkyard!
But i wont be a D*** ill help you guys out. First off, your talking about making multiple components run off of a 4 channel head unit, so as long as you don't mind having the same channels in the back seats as the front everythings peachy.
Well, you want to stay stock huh? Okay thats doable.. First off you need to know that the stock BOSE Radio is completely unamplified, the outputs are Low Level. The speakers have their own amplifiers at the speaker.
So Thats Good Right? So what I personally did with my Indash Navi and such with only 2V Pre-outs was, buy a Split-3003 by Audiopipe off of Ebay. With it you will need probably around 10 RCA Connectors, just go to your junk drawer and see what you've got, and if you have to go out to some place that would sell RCA connections which is pretty much anywhere; cut them in half splice the wires onto your existing positive and negative wires from your head unit (Label them for the love of god!), plug them into the Splitter and do the same for the opposing wires. The SPLIT-3003 kinda looks like this with a whopping total of 6 Channel Inputs and 12 Outputs On the Splitter they are labeled as Front, Rear, and Sub.
Link to Product Description: http://www.caraudiochannel.com/lates...amplifier.html
My audio thread about this splitter on AVIC411.com: http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&p=180785
FRS FRS
IN OUT1
| | | | | |
________
| SPLIT |
|_3003__|
| | | | | |
OUT2 OUT3
FRS FRS
The beauty of this Splitter is it is also an inexpensive line driver capable of making your existing outputs into anywhere from 4-8V

!!! AND! it also gives your lines a 12 dB Boost!Seriously guys my BlOwSE has never sounded so good, i can crank my volumes up to the absolute loudest i can with my Navi and its Crystal Clear, and thats really fricken loud.
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOPIPE-MULTI-...d=p3286.c0.m14
Go ahead take out your stock HU, and using this diagram splice the wires such and youll be running wires from the Pre-outs on the second or third set of Line outs and running them back to your door speakers. Give the Splitter a good ground, a Power Source and Connect the blue wire to the Turn On wire. And to top this all off you can PROBABLY fit the Splitter behind your stock headunit I know I fit mine behind my indash and its deeper than the stock headunit, and its Jungle of Wires back there! That should be It!~
Constant 12V+ : Pink/Blue
Switched 12V+ : Blue/Black
Ground Vehicle : Chassis
Illumination : Red/Blue
Dimmer : Red/Orange
Antenna Trigger : Black/Red
Antenna Right Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) : Blue/White
Left Front (-) : Blue/Yellow
Right Front (+) : Brown
Right Front (-) : Brown/White
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) : Red
Left Rear (-) : Green
Right Rear (+) : Blue
Right Rear (-) : Pink
For some reason not all the wiring info is showing up so! heres a link to crutchfield.
Link: http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Suppo...issan%20Maxima
Any Questions?
Last edited by FallenOne; Oct 5, 2009 at 01:55 PM.
Okay so, i want to start off by saying wow. An audio thread in the 4th gen forums... What a relief i thought today was going to be on of those plain ole everyone does what their supposed to days!
Oh and just to answer anyone who says go aftermarket, No; 1. Hes trying to stay as close to stock as possible, 2. BOSE is cheaper and sounds Great with a small Modification, and 3. with an aftermarket system you have a few more problems and things to buy! An Amp, Speakers, Wiring Kits, Line Output Converter for the amplifier in the back, and to top all that off.. THEY CAN GET STOLEN! I'd PAY to see some stump jumping moron pull out the stock speakers from a Maxima. PITA, and NOT WORTH IT TO THEM! Besides you can get all of the stuff you needed in a few days, and from the Junkyard!
But i wont be a D*** ill help you guys out. First off, your talking about making multiple components run off of a 4 channel head unit, so as long as you don't mind having the same channels in the back seats as the front everythings peachy.
Well, you want to stay stock huh? Okay thats doable.. First off you need to know that the stock BOSE Radio is completely unamplified, the outputs are Low Level. The speakers have their own amplifiers at the speaker.
So Thats Good Right? So what I personally did with my Indash Navi and such with only 2V Pre-outs was, buy a Split-3003 by Audiopipe off of Ebay. With it you will need probably around 10 RCA Connectors, just go to your junk drawer and see what you've got, and if you have to go out to some place that would sell RCA connections which is pretty much anywhere; cut them in half splice the wires onto your existing positive and negative wires from your head unit (Label them for the love of god!), plug them into the Splitter and do the same for the opposing wires. The SPLIT-3003 kinda looks like this with a whopping total of 6 Channel Inputs and 12 Outputs On the Splitter they are labeled as Front, Rear, and Sub.
Link to Product Description: http://www.caraudiochannel.com/lates...amplifier.html
My audio thread about this splitter on AVIC411.com: http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&p=180785
FRS FRS
IN OUT1
| | | | | |
________
| SPLIT |
|_3003__|
| | | | | |
OUT2 OUT3
FRS FRS
The beauty of this Splitter is it is also an inexpensive line driver capable of making your existing outputs into anywhere from 4-8V
!!! AND! it also gives your lines a 12 dB Boost!
Seriously guys my BlOwSE has never sounded so good, i can crank my volumes up to the absolute loudest i can with my Navi and its Crystal Clear, and thats really fricken loud.
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOPIPE-MULTI-...d=p3286.c0.m14
Go ahead take out your stock HU, and using this diagram splice the wires such and youll be running wires from the Pre-outs on the second or third set of Line outs and running them back to your door speakers. Give the Splitter a good ground, a Power Source and Connect the blue wire to the Turn On wire. And to top this all off you can PROBABLY fit the Splitter behind your stock headunit I know I fit mine behind my indash and its deeper than the stock headunit, and its Jungle of Wires back there! That should be It!~
Constant 12V+ : Pink/Blue
Switched 12V+ : Blue/Black
Ground Vehicle : Chassis
Illumination : Red/Blue
Dimmer : Red/Orange
Antenna Trigger : Black/Red
Antenna Right Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) : Blue/White
Left Front (-) : Blue/Yellow
Right Front (+) : Brown
Right Front (-) : Brown/White
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) : Red
Left Rear (-) : Green
Right Rear (+) : Blue
Right Rear (-) : Pink
For some reason not all the wiring info is showing up so! heres a link to crutchfield.
Link: http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Suppo...issan%20Maxima
Any Questions?
Oh and just to answer anyone who says go aftermarket, No; 1. Hes trying to stay as close to stock as possible, 2. BOSE is cheaper and sounds Great with a small Modification, and 3. with an aftermarket system you have a few more problems and things to buy! An Amp, Speakers, Wiring Kits, Line Output Converter for the amplifier in the back, and to top all that off.. THEY CAN GET STOLEN! I'd PAY to see some stump jumping moron pull out the stock speakers from a Maxima. PITA, and NOT WORTH IT TO THEM! Besides you can get all of the stuff you needed in a few days, and from the Junkyard!
But i wont be a D*** ill help you guys out. First off, your talking about making multiple components run off of a 4 channel head unit, so as long as you don't mind having the same channels in the back seats as the front everythings peachy.
Well, you want to stay stock huh? Okay thats doable.. First off you need to know that the stock BOSE Radio is completely unamplified, the outputs are Low Level. The speakers have their own amplifiers at the speaker.
So Thats Good Right? So what I personally did with my Indash Navi and such with only 2V Pre-outs was, buy a Split-3003 by Audiopipe off of Ebay. With it you will need probably around 10 RCA Connectors, just go to your junk drawer and see what you've got, and if you have to go out to some place that would sell RCA connections which is pretty much anywhere; cut them in half splice the wires onto your existing positive and negative wires from your head unit (Label them for the love of god!), plug them into the Splitter and do the same for the opposing wires. The SPLIT-3003 kinda looks like this with a whopping total of 6 Channel Inputs and 12 Outputs On the Splitter they are labeled as Front, Rear, and Sub.
Link to Product Description: http://www.caraudiochannel.com/lates...amplifier.html
My audio thread about this splitter on AVIC411.com: http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&p=180785
FRS FRS
IN OUT1
| | | | | |
________
| SPLIT |
|_3003__|
| | | | | |
OUT2 OUT3
FRS FRS
The beauty of this Splitter is it is also an inexpensive line driver capable of making your existing outputs into anywhere from 4-8V

!!! AND! it also gives your lines a 12 dB Boost!Seriously guys my BlOwSE has never sounded so good, i can crank my volumes up to the absolute loudest i can with my Navi and its Crystal Clear, and thats really fricken loud.
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOPIPE-MULTI-...d=p3286.c0.m14
Go ahead take out your stock HU, and using this diagram splice the wires such and youll be running wires from the Pre-outs on the second or third set of Line outs and running them back to your door speakers. Give the Splitter a good ground, a Power Source and Connect the blue wire to the Turn On wire. And to top this all off you can PROBABLY fit the Splitter behind your stock headunit I know I fit mine behind my indash and its deeper than the stock headunit, and its Jungle of Wires back there! That should be It!~
Constant 12V+ : Pink/Blue
Switched 12V+ : Blue/Black
Ground Vehicle : Chassis
Illumination : Red/Blue
Dimmer : Red/Orange
Antenna Trigger : Black/Red
Antenna Right Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) : Blue/White
Left Front (-) : Blue/Yellow
Right Front (+) : Brown
Right Front (-) : Brown/White
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) : Red
Left Rear (-) : Green
Right Rear (+) : Blue
Right Rear (-) : Pink
For some reason not all the wiring info is showing up so! heres a link to crutchfield.
Link: http://www.crutchfield.com/app/Suppo...issan%20Maxima
Any Questions?
i hope you are kidding because i havea 97 gle ith bose and yes it is a great stock stereo but it has zero chance of setting of a car alarm unless it is a hona civic with a alarm that when a person walks by the car it goes off.
Uh...yeah, if you wanted to add another set of speakers to the rear doors, you do have to do some modification, as there are no speaker grills, places to put the speakers, and I doubt they even have the holes in the door skin for mounting. You will, however, need 2 sets of tweeters, woofers and amplifiers.
This may or may not blow your fuse
However, if you choose to do that, I don't see why you couldn't just tap the input to the rear deck speakers (before the amp) and run it to the doors. That, and you'd have to tap the power to the amplifiers in the rear deck as well.
Trust me, this is going to get way more complicated than you want it to be. IMO, it's a serious waste of money to put that many speakers in the rear. Unless you ride in the back all the time in your own car, it's worthless. Just get decent speakers for rear fill, get a sub for the trunk, and upgrade your front speakers and call it a day. It'll sound better and be a helluva lot less complicated.
This may or may not blow your fuse

However, if you choose to do that, I don't see why you couldn't just tap the input to the rear deck speakers (before the amp) and run it to the doors. That, and you'd have to tap the power to the amplifiers in the rear deck as well.
Trust me, this is going to get way more complicated than you want it to be. IMO, it's a serious waste of money to put that many speakers in the rear. Unless you ride in the back all the time in your own car, it's worthless. Just get decent speakers for rear fill, get a sub for the trunk, and upgrade your front speakers and call it a day. It'll sound better and be a helluva lot less complicated.
Yeah, Once I put in my Pioneer DVD Player, I got so much louder. I can't turn the volume past 4-5
You should have gotten a harness with a line output converter so you can dial down the signal coming from the HU, as it's already amplified.
You're basically sending an amplified signal to an amplifier...
Uh...yeah, if you wanted to add another set of speakers to the rear doors, you do have to do some modification, as there are no speaker grills, places to put the speakers, and I doubt they even have the holes in the door skin for mounting. You will, however, need 2 sets of tweeters, woofers and amplifiers.
This may or may not blow your fuse
However, if you choose to do that, I don't see why you couldn't just tap the input to the rear deck speakers (before the amp) and run it to the doors. That, and you'd have to tap the power to the amplifiers in the rear deck as well.
Trust me, this is going to get way more complicated than you want it to be. IMO, it's a serious waste of money to put that many speakers in the rear. Unless you ride in the back all the time in your own car, it's worthless. Just get decent speakers for rear fill, get a sub for the trunk, and upgrade your front speakers and call it a day. It'll sound better and be a helluva lot less complicated.
This may or may not blow your fuse

However, if you choose to do that, I don't see why you couldn't just tap the input to the rear deck speakers (before the amp) and run it to the doors. That, and you'd have to tap the power to the amplifiers in the rear deck as well.
Trust me, this is going to get way more complicated than you want it to be. IMO, it's a serious waste of money to put that many speakers in the rear. Unless you ride in the back all the time in your own car, it's worthless. Just get decent speakers for rear fill, get a sub for the trunk, and upgrade your front speakers and call it a day. It'll sound better and be a helluva lot less complicated.
Last edited by RellMaxima; Oct 6, 2009 at 11:55 AM.
What he's proposing is just a different way to do the same thing, but he's forgetting that the speakers need to be amplified, so not only do you need to split (somehow, either my way or his) the signal, you need to power an amplifier. so now you have more wires to run and you need a place to mount the speakers.
His way adds a splitter, but allows a way to increase the voltage lost by splitting them. Not a bad solution.
Easy Guys! lets play nice in the sandbox now 
Well regardless of upgrading to have more speakers less speakers or a new headunit, the splitter i wrote about is INVALUABLE its INCREDIBLE what it does for your plain ole Jane system!
I do agree adding more speakers would probably be a waste and a half, but i didnt want to crush his hopes and dreams. Especially since i had once thought about doing the same thing but having Mids in the back doors, and minus the tweets.
If you do SERIOUSLY plan on getting an indash, if it has less than 4V Pre-outs i would recommend getting the Splitter as well, like i said it Considerably inproved the sound quality and volume of my own.
Look at it this way depending on what type of Indash Navi you buy your going to either have a *** Load of Preouts or just a few and no matter which happens youll probably need to have a line driver to make the volume more tolerable. So look at it this way, in the long run if your going to need it, why not just get one now and enjoy what youve already got until than?
i think that answered a queston? Idk.. im tired. i need sleep.

Well regardless of upgrading to have more speakers less speakers or a new headunit, the splitter i wrote about is INVALUABLE its INCREDIBLE what it does for your plain ole Jane system!
I do agree adding more speakers would probably be a waste and a half, but i didnt want to crush his hopes and dreams. Especially since i had once thought about doing the same thing but having Mids in the back doors, and minus the tweets.
If you do SERIOUSLY plan on getting an indash, if it has less than 4V Pre-outs i would recommend getting the Splitter as well, like i said it Considerably inproved the sound quality and volume of my own.
Look at it this way depending on what type of Indash Navi you buy your going to either have a *** Load of Preouts or just a few and no matter which happens youll probably need to have a line driver to make the volume more tolerable. So look at it this way, in the long run if your going to need it, why not just get one now and enjoy what youve already got until than?
i think that answered a queston? Idk.. im tired. i need sleep.
Easy Guys! lets play nice in the sandbox now 
Well regardless of upgrading to have more speakers less speakers or a new headunit, the splitter i wrote about is INVALUABLE its INCREDIBLE what it does for your plain ole Jane system!
I do agree adding more speakers would probably be a waste and a half, but i didnt want to crush his hopes and dreams. Especially since i had once thought about doing the same thing but having Mids in the back doors, and minus the tweets.
If you do SERIOUSLY plan on getting an indash, if it has less than 4V Pre-outs i would recommend getting the Splitter as well, like i said it Considerably inproved the sound quality and volume of my own.
Look at it this way depending on what type of Indash Navi you buy your going to either have a *** Load of Preouts or just a few and no matter which happens youll probably need to have a line driver to make the volume more tolerable. So look at it this way, in the long run if your going to need it, why not just get one now and enjoy what youve already got until than?
i think that answered a queston? Idk.. im tired. i need sleep.

Well regardless of upgrading to have more speakers less speakers or a new headunit, the splitter i wrote about is INVALUABLE its INCREDIBLE what it does for your plain ole Jane system!
I do agree adding more speakers would probably be a waste and a half, but i didnt want to crush his hopes and dreams. Especially since i had once thought about doing the same thing but having Mids in the back doors, and minus the tweets.
If you do SERIOUSLY plan on getting an indash, if it has less than 4V Pre-outs i would recommend getting the Splitter as well, like i said it Considerably inproved the sound quality and volume of my own.
Look at it this way depending on what type of Indash Navi you buy your going to either have a *** Load of Preouts or just a few and no matter which happens youll probably need to have a line driver to make the volume more tolerable. So look at it this way, in the long run if your going to need it, why not just get one now and enjoy what youve already got until than?
i think that answered a queston? Idk.. im tired. i need sleep.

See, the difference between you and I is that I take pleasure in crushing hopes and dreams

Seriously though, if he's going to go through all this trouble just to add crappy Bose speakers....he's better off and will be much more happy with his sound with aftermarket speakers.
*FACEPALM*
you guys are missing the point here.. He doesnt plan to go overboard here. And with that in mind hes gonna need to step up the voltage to the speakers line ins in order to get a louder and cleaner sound.
Seriously 18$ and hes golden.
you guys are missing the point here.. He doesnt plan to go overboard here. And with that in mind hes gonna need to step up the voltage to the speakers line ins in order to get a louder and cleaner sound.
Seriously 18$ and hes golden.
The Bose amps are At the speaker, all im telling him to do is place this Line driver between his Headunit and the Bose Amps. Do i need to draw a pretty picture or go get a pic of mine?
So now you have to:
-Mount woofer and tweeter and amp
-Run power to the amps
-Split signal wire (either from the HU or tapping the back speakers before the amps) and run the signal wire to the amps in the rear doors
-Run power to the splitter
Seem worth it now?
actually =] thats the beauty of that line driver is its multiple channel out puts you can have 6 channels of subs 6 channels of fronts and rears. if you go to that site i posted theres a ppic of one side of it and the other side is identicle excpet it has 2 outputs rather than an in and an out.
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