ok guys.. since i have decided to take my car to the school and give the UIM a major clean out, including the IACV and EGR and replace the PCV hose and other goodies. this is what i have done so far.

I have Cleaned out EVERYTHING. I got the UIM sandblasted and cleaned on the inside. Nice and shiny.. I sandblasted the EGR, and soaked it in a bucket of Carb Cleaner for about 3 hours.. and took some wires to clean the inside of it. (i have no idea that that thing is called.. o_O long rod with stiff wires coming from the top?) Cleaned the sensor that was on the EGR (sandblasted the health out of it.) Cleaned the IACV, Cleaned the Throttle body itself.

Now this was done on the maxima. when i had the UIM off

• Injector balance test. Injectors working fine
• Noid Light test- all injectors were getting electricity.
• Spark test (spark plugs are NGK G-Power)
• Checked Fuel Pressure. (fuel pressure reading 27.. when it should be 49-/+.. then i closed the return hose to do the fuel pressure test again and the fuel pressure should have read sky high close to around 80 or so... but nope. still read 27 pressure. and this was when you switch it to on, and it read the same when you crank it, (turn it over)
• Cleaned MAF
• Checked wires
• Cleaned the CPS sensor
• replaced knock sensor
• checked the fuse to the fuel pump. everything is good according to my eyes.. well, at least the fuses were.
• Made sure IAT sensor was clean and working, and it was
• tested coil pack with an ohm meter, and they all check out good. forgot what the reading were, but according to alldata they checked out fine. (but the inside where the spring sits, is kinda dirty.. need to clean them)
• checked valves, and there is 0 carbon buildup on all of them. (shell with nitro helps GREATLY)
• Replaced fuel filter
• checked all vacuum hoses, nothing cracked, nothing broken, all hoses are back in place. (correctly)
• Cleaned EGR tube, replaced gasket, and thanks Navfe for letting me know the EGR gasket has to be on right, and It is.
  and by the way, the hacking mod WAS needed if you want to take the EGR tube off. Search the .org, you will find some great information and pictures. I printed that whole thread and kept it in a place where i can use it later.

Now.. other than that, my car was started yesterday, but it would jump from 500-2500 RPM continuously, LIMP mode i guess? It had 3 codes, 1 dealing with the CPS sensor wire, IAC, and something about a misfire. But i scanned the car today and it showed no codes. but it won't start. it would turn over, start and die. So i am now stuck here. I am still guessing even though the fuel pressure is reading reall low, it should still start up and run shouldn't it?

But i will replace fuel pump ASAP on monday.

other than that, i still thikn the car won't crank even if i do change the fuel pump... other than that, is there anything else i should check for? anything i should do at this moment? Any help is greatly appreciated. thanks!

SORRY for writing in SO MUCH detail of what i did to it.

 

fule pump. check its fuse too.

 

will check on monday

 

what would the fuse have to do with anything.. he would not be getting any pressure if it was bad

check voltage at the pump with a volt meter

 

^lolz, boring friday huh Seb?

 

yea im at work till 2:30 am... brought my guitars though

 

geetars, mkay.
Have fun at work. Let me know if you want some coffee or cookies or a burrito or something....

 

since this thread is about about fuel pumps im gonna ask this quick question.

How do you check the fuel pressure I think my pump is just starting to go south...

 

Not to thread jack but let me know if you want a fuel pump. I have one for sale!

 

Hi dkillahster,

I performed a similar cleaning maintenance a week ago on my car (UIM, EGR, IACV, Fuel Filter, Gasket). When I put everything back together the maxima would start but I had to keep the gas pedal down to keep it running (barely). My problem was the IACV was on its last leg and I washed that leg out when I cleaned the it. I replace the IACV and now the maxima can idle. You can try to do the idle relearn procedure if you think your IACV is still good. Just be aware that it is common for the IACV to short out your ECM.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-5-5-gens.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...00-2001-a.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...questions.html

On idle the motor shaked and smell from all the cleaning product that polluted the oil. The rumbling went away after changing and rinsing the motor oil. If you are sure the IACV is not your problem I suggest you look at the MAF next because you are rpm-ing under 3000.




Btw since you just took out the UIM maybe you can help me with this unknown bolt with a hugh washer that's driving me nuts.



I think I took it out from the back of the UIM area when I was trying to take off the two bolts on the support bracket. I've been trying for days to feel for a hole and look with a mirror for where I can put it in but I'm just not sure. Did you happen to run across this bolt and remember where it would go?

Thanks,
a

 

Double check the connector to the MAF.

 

I still have those bolts in my pocket.. I have problems trying to get them back on too.. and when i took those bolts out, a bracket fell somwhere, i couldn't find it anywhere. But if i am able to get my had in there i'll let you know.. but i have to wait till monday, because the school ios closed now. and my baby is in the shop..

And with the IACV, i cleaned it too while i was taking everything apart, i doubt i put that with all the information above.. I'm still thinking the fuel pump reading that low of pressure may have a problem.. But misfire? if everything checks out from the injectors to the sparks. how can there be a misfire?

just had to resolder in the wires to the maf.. because if you remember, maybe not, that i had my intake down into the engine. like right in front of the radiator. and I figured i can place my MAF right down there as well, so back then, i had soldered the wires to be longer to reach the filter, but now, i resoldered in the wires to the right lenght and the MAF is sitting the way it should. and all voltages check out on the MAF with my voltmeter..

 

see what happens david when you don't tell the whole story?

 

you see what happens when you reach into your pants to find your wallet, and find out you have extra bolts in your pocket?

thanks for flaming me over the phone. =D

 

posting pictures of where i took those bolts out soon

 

Hey dkillahster How do you check the fuel pressure
I have some fuel related problems too i thinks.

 

That bolt has a huge washer, and looks just like one that goes to the egr guide tube.

When I cleaned the tb, iacv, egr tube, and maf on mine I also adjusted the throttle cable. Fired it up and was getting the rpm spike like you did. Turns out I adjust the cable WAY too much, it left the throttle open about 25% or so, even without pushing on the pedal.

The two bolts on the back of the uim, the ones that hold mounting brackets, do not need to be replaced, so I hear. The bolt MIGHT be from that.

Make sure all your connectors are in, and hoses connected.

 

So your car wont turn over either????

 

The car will turn over.. start, and die instantly.. but the day before that, it started up and had those rpm "spikes"

but funny thing was. it read a misfire code, IACV code, and the CPS sensor. then when i go in the next day.. the codes were gone.. weird

 

well, you can do like i did.. Use the tools at our shop. which was a MAC TOOLS Fuel Pressure Guage. You hook it up inline with your fuel system. Like wise, where your fuel filter is at. or you can have the fuel filter off.

Fuel pressure should read 37 or so at idle, and 42-49 at start-up. so i hope this helps. And if you clamp off the return hose and do another reading, the reading should go sky high. like in the 80psi or so..

 

Have you checked the grounds that are strapped to the lower intake manifold by any chance??

 

what ground would this be sir?

 

 

Those bolts are from the EGR tube.

 

You guys are absolutely right . I've been feeling for a protruded round circle because the washer has a perfectly round un-rusted circle on it. When I look at the pictures again I can actually see the un-rusted shape of the egr valve on the other side of the washer - I had the washer on backwards. I guess I must've dropped the other washer because I only have one in my pocket. After seeing how other users on this forum screw the bolts back in place to hold it I'll strive to never hold bolts in my pocket again.

Thanks,
acclimate

 

Figured it was the MAF, just like BLACKWIND said it was. *cough*

Replaced my 96 maf for a 99 from a JY. She runs better now. with the EGR Cleaned, i can feel a BIG power difference. And for some reason, she growls a lot louder too.. o_O but anywho. Thanks to all of you who chimed in for the help. Big thanks to Blackwind!!

 

no problem sugar cheeks!!

 

Bah I called the MAF problem in post 11. It was running in limp.

 

sure.. but.. Blackwind was on the phone with me the whole time before i put the post up.. and why am i bumping a week and a half old post? o_O

 

now that the cat's out the bag....im having your love child also.

 

I feel so betrayed Nafve.

 

it was a one time thing!! he said he put his egr bolts on, i didn't think it would happen.