I know I was the first or one of the first people to get these headers.....and it was a big debate about them not making power(I proved a lot of people wrong) but now I'm sure lots of people have them and I wanna know what issues people have had with them. Lemme kno

 

The gaskets that come with v2OBX headers are crap. Get the OEM ones.

You have to notch the cross member a little bit so the flex section doesn't get a huge hole ripped into it.

The sound, when you pair it with a Cattman or GReddy exhaust is addicting

 

I had some minor install issues with mine.

I had to remove the protective cover off of the rear motor mount and I had to grind some of the crossmember away.

Both of these issues were mentioned on your thread way before I even bought these though.

So far, they've been installed for a little over 7 months, and they are still in good shape.

They changed color from pure silver to more of a brown but there is no corrosion on the piping at all. There is some very minor rusting on the flanges, but I can scrape it off with my finger nail.

Instead of getting another bung welded on for the rear primary o2, I simply moved the o2 to the next bung downstream.

Also, the y-pipe was a PITA to drill into for my wideband o2 bung, but that's a good thing.

There is some sort of "hissing" sound though, and I'm 100% sure I don't have an exhaust leak. I believe the sound is from the exhaust gasses leaking out of the flex pipe because I still have the stock cat and catback, so there's a little more back pressure than normal.

One important thing that should be noted was that my car ran LEAN after installing these headers. I know that headers generally make the VQ run rich, but in my case, I was running a 14.3 AFR at certain rpm's at WOT! (Only mods were headers, intake spacers, timing advance)

The fact that these headers may cause the engine to run lean may be the reason you put down such good HP numbers without a tune.

Anyone who has these headers should either get a wideband and a AFC or a dyno tune to find out what their AFR looks like.

Because every car is different, this may not be the case for everyone, but I'd check just to be sure; I wouldn't want to be running around with a really lean AFR at WOT.

 

This is not the first time I've heard this issue. I am going to say it's NOT an exhaust leak because there cannot be a handful of leaks from different OBX owners unless the flanges are horribly aligned. With that said, I will say it's the THIN gauge steel they are using. It's probably not insulated enough to eliminate the exhaust flow velocity, if that even makes sense. Take a look at the OEM manifolds....

 

I've got a little whistling too...but very very little.

But the backfire I get from shifting at 7,300 drowns it out

 

I actually Seafoamed my car to check for any smoke. There was a little seeping out from around one of my o2's, so I tightened it and no more smoke seeped out.

I would imagine I would see smoke if there was a leak?

 

Yep, and that would have easily caused the hissing sound (exhaust leak) if smoke was getting out.

 

Every car i've heard with these installed whistle. It's probably the flex section that OBX uses.

 

Sorry, my post was worded kind of awkwardly.

I meant that I tightened the o2 and the hiss was still there. I am convinced that the hiss is normal though.

 

lol. I have the s-afc and ecu but I need a tune bad....I think my car was running super lean cuz my rear o2 sensor was bad....but I was told to extend my rear o2 sensors behind the main cat and it would stop burning out my o2 sensors

 

any videos with the sound from these headers?

 

You can extend the rear o2 to behind the cat only if it is the secondary rear o2. The primary o2 must remain on the manifold because the ECU uses this ti control the air fuel ratio.

I went with the o2 simulator and heater resistor route instead of extending them behind the cat.

 

i've been thinking to buy these headers.. actually, once i get enough money, i'm buying it.. just need some info! i've seen/read on diff. sites about obx headers.. v1, v2, v3.. what's the difference? and how do i know which one's which?

http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=944#
^which one's this?

and i swear ebay used to have some for 3.5 maximas but now i don't see any.

 

I've never heard of the v3's, but that link shows a header that I have never seen before.

It actually looks worse in design because the primary tubes are much shorter than the v2's.

If anyone has real pictures of those v3 headers, please step in.

Also, I can't seem to find any more OBX v2's on ebay either.

Here's a pic of the OBX v2 headers.


Here's a pic of the OBX v1 headers.


The main difference was that the OBX v2's had an equal length y-pipe. And I did get my v2 headers off ebay about 8 months ago. I think the v1's were actually designed for 95-99 Maximas because they have an egr bung.

 

You can't find anything on OBX's website, to my knowledge the only place is on eBay.

 

i dont have headers on the max but i have them on my 68 camaro. OOmaxSE prob has the correct assessment. headers have much thinner steel compared to the cast iron. on my camaro you can hear the valetrain working and it sounds like the lifters are ticking. i know vq's are a different engine than a small block but the thin steel does nothing for hindering little sounds that the engine makes inside.

 

I think you're right.

The headers are pretty thin stainless steel. It's a tough metal though, as it took a decent amount of effort to drill the hole for my wideband bung.

 

I installed them on my 00 Maxima with EGR

I did a EGR delete so I could use the equal length y pipe.

Gaskets are trash. Wound up reusing my stock gaskets.
Needed to have O2 Sensor holes relocated.
Needed to get a exhaust hanger put in.
Needed to trim my crossmember so I didnt get a hole in my flex section.
Needed to make EGR delete plates.

Totally worth it with the gains and sound.

My current setup is the OBX V2 Equal Length Headers on a 3.0, Modified Megan Test Pipe, Cherry Bomb Glasspack, OBX SS Muffler. Not TOO much drone but I like it

 

Any sound clips?

 

I came across this site and these look the V2 model
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/h11389s.html

 

Those are the ones.

 

I will post one up here

 

Need to install that buddy club seat

Here is a clip
OBX V2 Equal Length Headers, Megan Test Pipe, 22'' Cherry Bomb, OBX SS Muffler
Cattman short ram

Used an iphone to record this real quick. Sounds worse than it actually is. There is no rasp, I think the phone mic is maxing out.. Engine wasent warmed up so I didnt rev it hard. Ill make another vid tomorrow

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T93UW1faITs

Here is my old exhaust vid

(Omg I had to get a different muffler and a glasspack ASAP) By far a horrible system. Headers, test pipe, resonator delete, ebay bs muffler I got for free
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFlYRUC-E20

 

i need headers in my life

 

werd...

 

Well i have a set of obx only problem i had was the flex keep braking but i fix it buy totally removing the flex.

 

Here's a pic of where I relocated my rear primary o2 to avoid having to get a whole new bung welded. (The supplied bung on the rear manifold puts the o2 sensor too close to the steering rack)

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYR_0...eature=related

 

Runfiles please.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...headers-9.html

There's the thread that has the before and after dynos with the OBX v2 headers.

 

They are in the obx header thread started by pulsargts... just search it...I put down 247whp with i/h/e/ssim...untuned ...look for the run files between pages 9-15

 

Just in case anyone ever cares/needs to know.......... You can still drop the k-member & steering rack without having to remove the 1-piece rear, you do have to remove the control a-arms etc from the rack though unlike how you would normally do it. Disconnected the rest of the exhaust at the rear flange, dropped the crossmember & jacked the front of the motor up for extra clearance, came out/down by finagling it back & sideways over the v2obx with two people. It was actually MUCH easier then we thought. This was on a 4th gen, 5/5.5 shouldn't be any different.

Once it's out you have insane clearance to work on the rear header, but we weren't doing it for that, we were replacing the rack.

 

Just out of curiosity, did anyone heat wrap their headers? Not sure if it'd help out, since I'm running a short ram intake setup. I'd just like to see what people have to say.

I'm just more concerned about keeping the excess heat off the radiator fans since I'm assuming the heat shields won't fit back on? And that's the last thing I need is warped rad fans...

 

IIRC the second pic was fo the V2 obx for the 95-99

 

Just got my OBX headers in the mail and they're going in on Saturday. Just wanted to clarify one concern of mine:

1) Can I use one of the secondary O2 bungs for my wideband or does it have to be in the y-pipe?

 

Heat wrap or jet hot coating should both decrease underhood temperatures dramatically and slightly increase exhaust velocity by keeping the heat contained. It's a good thing.

It would be best if it was after the 2 primaries merge so you're getting a reading on both banks.

 

My Cattman Headers are ceramic coated cause I felt there was alot of plastic items too close that would possible melt.....and for the Hp reasons as well!!!!

 

^^ How much did it cost you for the ceramic coated?

 

Does anyone have a picture of where they put their wideband? I'm having a welder relocate the O2 bung, plug up the two secondaries and make a bung for the wideband. Just want to tell him a good spot to do it.

 

some where around $300ish

I placed mine here...find somewhere on the ypipe collector: