I effed something up during tranny removal help is appreciated
I effed something up during tranny removal help is appreciated
I'm doing my own clutch job, I used JTZs writeup for getting the trans removed. I removed everything necessary from the trans and then like an idiot, thought I was supposed to pry the trans off the bellhousing and then pull off the bellhousing after I had dropped the trans. Now my trans is separated from the bellhousing. It isnt hanging from the allignment pins but it wont fully seperate from the bellhousing. I can't slide it back together because some of the gears are out of mesh, some aren't. I also cannot get the bellhousing off the engine. I know once I do that I should only have to reallign the gears and seal the case back up. But no matter where or how much I pry I can't get the bellhousing off the engine. I counted 7 bolts, 3 below going from the engine to the bellhousing, and 4 above going from the bellhousing to the engine. The shift support rod is still connected to the bellhousing by one bolt , I figured I need to get the bellhousing off at least half an inch cause there isn't enough clearance between the bellhousing (which the support rod is bolted to) and the crossmember, so even with a ratcheting box end wrench I can't get it to seat on the bolt and break it loose or anything. I can provide pictures of the situation if that would be helpful.
I'm doing my own clutch job, I used JTZs writeup for getting the trans removed. I removed everything necessary from the trans and then like an idiot, thought I was supposed to pry the trans off the bellhousing and then pull off the bellhousing after I had dropped the trans. Now my trans is separated from the bellhousing. It isnt hanging from the allignment pins but it wont fully seperate from the bellhousing. I can't slide it back together because some of the gears are out of mesh, some aren't. I also cannot get the bellhousing off the engine. I know once I do that I should only have to reallign the gears and seal the case back up. But no matter where or how much I pry I can't get the bellhousing off the engine. I counted 7 bolts, 3 below going from the engine to the bellhousing, and 4 above going from the bellhousing to the engine. The shift support rod is still connected to the bellhousing by one bolt , I figured I need to get the bellhousing off at least half an inch cause there isn't enough clearance between the bellhousing (which the support rod is bolted to) and the crossmember, so even with a ratcheting box end wrench I can't get it to seat on the bolt and break it loose or anything. I can provide pictures of the situation if that would be helpful.
Update: Yeah I realize now that the one shift support rod bolt I did successfully remove was one of the engine to bellhousing bolts, so that brings the bellhousing and engine bolts up to a total of 8. I also located the one you are speaking of that is hidden. Again, it doesn't look humanly possible to remove without removing the crossmember or something. So that brings the engine/bellhousing bolt count up to 9. The haynes manual says 1995 and after have 10. Is the tenth one the remaining shift support rod bolt? However that bolt just goes thru the shift support rod bracket directly to the bellhousing it doesnt go through the engine, meaning once I remove the 9th hidden bolt, I should be able to inch the bellhousing back and get that last bolt off the bellhousing because I figure the shift support rod should be able to move a little left and right like the shift linkage.
Yes I removed both drive axles. Literally everything.
Yes I removed both drive axles. Literally everything.
Last edited by BlueBlackMax; Feb 26, 2010 at 05:55 PM.
It really is not a difficult job. I realize that some may have more experience working on cars than others ... so that in mind. I say it's not hard. Not for me anyway.
You need to get all the bolts out and then back in again, and it is humanly possible, I never once removed the X member to drop my trans. Gear wrenches are handy !
That bolt is a 14mm ... btw.
Disclaimer: My write up is from my experinece, your's may differ. Please do not blame me if something goes wrong during the process, if it does, it's operator error.
You need to get all the bolts out and then back in again, and it is humanly possible, I never once removed the X member to drop my trans. Gear wrenches are handy !
That bolt is a 14mm ... btw.

Disclaimer: My write up is from my experinece, your's may differ. Please do not blame me if something goes wrong during the process, if it does, it's operator error.
It really is not a difficult job. I realize that some may have more experience working on cars than others ... so that in mind. I say it's not hard. Not for me anyway.
You need to get all the bolts out and then back in again, and it is humanly possible, I never once removed the X member to drop my trans. Gear wrenches are handy !
You need to get all the bolts out and then back in again, and it is humanly possible, I never once removed the X member to drop my trans. Gear wrenches are handy !
you can remove the trans in under an hour without removing the x-member
Yeah I figured out how to remove the trans. A snap on 14mm was a lot more useful in removing the shift support rod bolts because it has an angled box end so I actually got it to seat on the bolt and got it off. Took me 45 minutes of frustration with the gear wrench trying to get it on the bolt (although the gear wrench was quite useful for other things)
My problem isn't removing the trans anymore, its getting it put back together. Did you guys read my first post? I took out the wrong damn bolts and separated the trans from the clutch housing and now I need to get it put back together. Also the clutch housing and trans wont completely separate. I don't know what to do
My question is do I now need to do a full rebuild or can I just realign it and seal it with rtv and call it good. Also, some little plastic thing with a checkball in it fell out when I separated it I'll take a picture of it so someone can hopefully identify it because I looked at the FSM and the blow up diagrams aren't detailed enough for me to find out what the hell it is. Also I'm not sure if it was in neutral when it separated cause when I disconnected my shift linkage the trans tried to shift itself into a gear.
My problem isn't removing the trans anymore, its getting it put back together. Did you guys read my first post? I took out the wrong damn bolts and separated the trans from the clutch housing and now I need to get it put back together. Also the clutch housing and trans wont completely separate. I don't know what to do
My question is do I now need to do a full rebuild or can I just realign it and seal it with rtv and call it good. Also, some little plastic thing with a checkball in it fell out when I separated it I'll take a picture of it so someone can hopefully identify it because I looked at the FSM and the blow up diagrams aren't detailed enough for me to find out what the hell it is. Also I'm not sure if it was in neutral when it separated cause when I disconnected my shift linkage the trans tried to shift itself into a gear.
Last edited by BlueBlackMax; Feb 27, 2010 at 10:41 AM.
turns out everything was fine all along, got the trans back together, all i had to do was clean the **** out of it, repack the bearings with grease, seal the case with rtv and put the neutral position switch back where it goes. it was in neutral all along. now the only thing holding me up on this clutch job is the fact that SOME DIP**** at clutch city sent me a 240sx stage 1 exedy and i didnt find out until i realized the pressure plate is just a tad smaller than the maxima one
Finished the clutch job. Now the transmission will only shift into 5th and reverse. I removed the bolts with the springs and ***** in them for 1-2 and 3-4. When reinstalling them, does the transmission need to be in those gear gates or something when installing the ball, spring then bolt? Or are my problems with it not going into first second third or fourth deeper than that. I'm hoping i can just drain the oil, mess with the shift selector and I'm guessing the forks need to be lined up or something before installing the ball and spring. JTZ max, any input here? You rebuilt one these, and I appreciate all the help and advice you have provided me with. If you have any idea why it would be able to go into 5th and reverse, but not first second third and fourth please let me know. I checked the FSM, it said to just install the 1-2 ball and spring (and the 3-4 ball and spring) after you put the case back on, which is what I did...Sorry I hope this post isn't ridiculously confusing I tried to explain it as best I could
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