I searched, did not find a definitive answer on this.

I did the water pump on my fathers' 00 Max.. VQ30

After installing the new pump, changing oil, all that jazz. We start the car, and start adding coolant, revving it a few times. Fill it up til its full and is not taking on more coolant. Install the rad cap and wait for the fans to come on, so that we can let it cool and add more coolant mix.

Well, I waited for the fans to shut off after several minutes and they did not.

Can the ECTS tell if the coolant level is low and therefore runs both fans at full speed as protective measure?

The engine had not been running long and the fans would not shut off. It was cool to the touch still.

Does anyone have any insight into this?

 

There is nothing that can tell if the coolant level is low. The fans are thermostatically controlled. The only thing I know of that keeps the fans on is the air conditioner and that causes the fans to come on when you turn on the AC.

 

Your thermostat is shot?

 

After letting the car sit overnight and adding the rest of the coolant mix, the fans now cycle how they should.

I am wondering if the water control valve did not see any flow and caused the fans to run non-stop as a safe measure...

It seems it was just a low level that caused it, and not even by that much, about 2.5 quarts.

Now we know!

 

cool, now i know when i go to do mine


BTW how long did it take you to change it out?

 

You still had air in the system and the pump wasn't pumping.
The ECTS got hot as did your engine and the ECU called for the cooling fans to come on. BUT, because there was no coolant flowing, the engine didn't cool down. The fans were basically doing nothing to cool the engine block so the ECTS signal never dropped low enough to shut the fans off.

Next time you service you cooling system, let the car idle with the radiator cap off, heater on full blast HOT so all the air comes out. Then you can close it up.

Your lucky you didn't blow a head gasket.

 

A long time.
Getting the piston compressed on the tensioner and getting the pin installed to remove it, was just a hassle. Trial and error as to what was the best device to jab in between while having enough room to get the pin through.

The rest was honestly not all that bad. A bit of sweaty palm syndrome while removing the water pump bolts (don't want to drop them into the timing cover) but other than that all went smoothly. The car makes a horrendous racket for about 5 minutes after you start it up, but if you rev it up a few times it eventually goes totally back to normal.

You also have to change your oil. I must've drained at least 1 quart of coolant from the oil when the oil was draining. Not an option to leave that in the sump.

Items to be purchased:

New pump of course, includes O-rings.
RTV sealant
Coolant
Engine oil + filter

Optional: new tensioner, thermostat while in there.

 

I would tend to agree with you, but even with no coolant in the engine, the fans should not come on after only about 60 seconds of idling. The engine never even got warm to the touch..

Anyways, it's fine now..

 

I need to re-check my Acura TL, which I drained the coolant recently. I ned to purge using the method described earlier. Run with cap off and heat full on. To get the air bubbles out.