I know this has been beaten to death but i think my case is different from just the usual timing chain rattle.

The ticking NEVER stops, oil quantity is good, happens on startup, under load, idling, all the time. I'm trying to figure out if it is valve noise or something else and what i should do to get it diagnosed. I've had a couple mechanics look at it and they don't know what it is. It is coming more from the middle of the motor and not coming from the timing chain cover. I'm about ready to just get a used motor for it honestly and have this one fixed later for a backup.

Here's a video, any advice at all is welcomed, I have an interested buyer i just need to get this taken care of right away

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkPtM4h40RM

 

From what I can tell is you need to have a valve adjustment done. My engine was making the same tick,tick,tick noise. If its fast and from the top on the motor its in the valve train. If your going to have the valves adjusted (its a lot of work) I would suggest replacing the chain tensioners also. I had 130k on mine when it started to tick, I just went and replaced the engine.

 

It's a diesel!

 

That's what i was afraid of. I really don't want to put a new motor in just to sell it. Would it make sense to find used heads and have them installed or get a used motor, or valve job? Engine has 100k right now. The sound has gradually gotten worse over the last 30k miles or so.


And YES that's what i've always said, Diesel maxima.

 

OK i've found a set up vq heads from a 350z. I could get those installed, if they would even work, or find a used motor. What would make more sense? Also i've been searching but i can't find an answer to what year motor i can use. I found an 05 motor that was from a 5 speed around town i could pick up but i can't figure out what years work. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

Does anyone know what would cause the valves to need to be adjusted? I'm going to call up my mechanic and get an estimate on what it would cost to fix that i guess before i start looking for a used motor.

 

It's like a lite version of mine...really shouldn't need a valve lash adjustment. Only excessive cam lobe wear would cause that, I don't think it's that bad.

 

another thing, when i take out the fuel pump fuse and just crank it over with the battery it doesn't make the ticking sound. Wouldn't it still make the sound if it were the valves? The reason i tried that was because at first i thought it was the injectors making all the noise.

 

Sounds like you may have proven your theory there. Wouldn't you say?

 

I would say mine is as bad or worse than yours, it's hard to tell from my phone cam but you can hear this thing coming from a block away. So cam lobe wear would need a valve lash adjustment then? I'm really thinking that's what it might be then. That would probably be caused by running the engine low on oil for awhile then?

 

It's just an assumption, but yeah running on low oil = FTL.

 

With the injectors being bad? Everyone i have talked to says that the injectors don't go bad and there suppose to tick. I even bought a used set of injectors and rails and it didn't change anything. I suppose i could have bought another bad set of injectors though. I just don't want to drop $400 on injectors on a hunch. Is there anyway to get the injectors to spray without turning the motor?

 

No, that's just the way injectors sound. If you're paying 400$ for injectors, you're paying too much. I got a set for 90$.

I wouldn't worry about it, keep the oil level where it should be and it will be fine. If it's burning oil, get a used one.

 

I mean $400 for brand new OEM, the used set i got for like 50 bucks. I was also told maybe it's the fuel pressure that's causing the ticking. Now i'm not sure where to start. it's either valve noise or injectors. Would the valves only make noise when the motor is running? like i said it doesn't make noise when it's just being cranked over but is it just because there is no detonation putting pressure on them?

I drove it like this for 40k+ miles but i'm selling the car so i need to get it fixed.

 

You can check the fuel pressure, but I really wouldn't worry about it if I were you. If the buyer doesn't want it because of that, they can find another car.


It be nice to hear it being revved.

 

Well it's a guaranteed sell if i get that fixed and i know no one will buy it with it like it is. Basically it just gets louder with the RPM's to where that's all you hear. I'll get a video later on today.

 

The noise wont happen when you crank it, there is not enough load and/or engine speed to create valve train noise. Its not going to be cam lobe wear because the lifter buckets are made of a softer metal then the cam lobes. Doing a head swap will work..as long as those arnt worn either. As far as using 350z heads, I'm not sure. If your going to swap an engine, it has to be a 2002-2003 3.5 VQ35 4th digit in VIN has to be "D".

 

Thanks for the info, so basically it is probably the lifter buckets that are worn down and out of spec? I had a mechanic look at it last night and he verified that it is coming from the rear head. he told me to take it apart and then crank it over and see if i can tell where it's coming from then. I'm guessing i should be able to tell just by looking at it which one(s) are messed up.


As for swapping another 3.5 that kind of sucks that it has to come from an 02-03, really cuts down on the motors around my area and raises mileage. I know some people have gotten other years to work but it must be more work. Not to mention the older 3.5's oil burning problem.