also is that on reg. tires or drag radials? Thanks

 

4000 rpms.. 10 PSI .. stock clutch.. 18 inch rims

 

so that's how you run 22's

 

 

Using Dunlop SP5000 225/50/16 street tires I launch at 3k with a fast clutch slip and ease into the throttle to try and controll tire spin. If the temp are 70f ish I just do a little dry scratch to get the dirt off the tires. I set the TP at ~20psi. after a few pass's I check the tire pressure again. It usually goes up a few PSI beacuse the tires get hot from the racing.

 

Cool, Thanks guys I am heading out to the track tonight and hope to get a low 14

 

with 2 PSI?

 

Ohh yeah 2PSI

but at least I go to the track right Keving ?

 

 

 

K-e-v-i-n... no "g"

 

So.....................

What did you run Adam?

 

I know, but hey I can't resist my self

 

I took 2 passes in before it closed, The 1st pass with drag radials was 2.3 60ft. with a 14.4. at 99mph. This was with TP at 20 PSI, I did not burn my tires in the box, just did a qick peel out to get dirt off (thanks Matt). When I launched I held the rpm's at about 2500 and dropped the clutch. I know, I know that was not what I was supposed to do, but I got to anxious, and that lead to my poor 60 ft. Due to my MPH I think I should be lower than 14.4, especially if I can get my launches down. I am going to try and control the tire spin with my clutch as you guys have said, but I got to anxious out there. If you guys have any pointers to help, I welcome constructive criticism.

At 99mph, what should I be at.

On the way back I ran into a GT 2002 Mustang he had his girl with him and I had 2 passengers and my stock 50lbs (each) tires in the trunk. Well needless to say I pulled on him badly. I don't think he knew what was coming to him, but I do give him some credit he was persistant.

 

99mph ~14.1-13.9

Good runs, pratcice makes perfect.

 

Maybe next time I can get to the track earlier and get a few more passes in, I am thinking about the quaife LSD, do yo uthink its worth the price? Does the benifit out weight the cost? I have only heard good things from it, but I don't think I have read anything on track experience. thanks

 

I useally do 10-20 passes. After my first few I get the launch down, It takes time to get into a grove.

I really like the quaife. It is expensive. You get what you pay for. If you are serious about getting those times down you will need it sooner or later. The biggest difference is that when I shift to second I only get a little chirp and it hooks, before I would spin through second with no problem. In first it still spins but it is easier to modulate.

What Boost PSI are you at, perhaps you could up that a little to get your traps faster. If you do more passes at the track and get the 60's into 2.2xx-2.1xx you should see 13.9-13.8 @ 99mph. My best run is a 13.6 @ 102mph with 2.15x 60' and just 8.5psi of boost and on my street tires. So you are close!

 

8.5 PSI on street tires? thats riding on rim

 

Thanks D!

 

I need to find my groove

That is my same problem, 1st ends so quick and even then I am spinning my ties but not moving. When I hit 2nd I still spin, and without an exhaust I can't hear my car, so I have to look at the revs, but If I do that I am not watching the road.

I am at 2PSI of boost, (so says my gauge) but I know this is not true, I think the lines are not right or something. I am running stock pulley (3.60) with y-pipe, RT Cat, ACT Clutch and Stillen Flywheel.

Question Matt, if I went with the S-FMU from Vortech would I need two of them since the 5th gens have 2 FPR (Fuel Press Reg) Kev and I were speaking and since the 5th gen fuel rail is different do you think 2 S-FMU would be necessary. I don't see why I would need two if I only have one now? Thanks

 

And when you spin through first you bog in second The quaife helps this!

You could still use an adjustable FMU. Your base fuel pressure would be no lower than what the stock FPR is set at.

"Daniel Martin voice" However if you inspect the diagrams on EC26 or 27 of the 5th gen ESM you will notice that it appears that you have only one fuel pressure regulator and one damper. The damper is their to smooth out the pulsations from the fuel pump. It is my bet that if you put a regulator off fitting on the fuel pressure regulator side of the rail it will work just fine with an adjustable FMU controling base fuel pressure. SX7r can get you one a fitting for a few bucks.

My new plan, thanks to Steve in Chicago, is to keep the basic FMU and put the 8:1 fmu disc back in and use a Fields Simple Fuel Controller to lean out the mixture by pulling fuel out by shortining the injector pulse width. A few hourds on a dyno should have it dialed in. I know the APEXi AFC didnt work on your 2k, but the Fields SFC might. Electronic manipulation of the fuel mixture is more consistant to mechanical.

 

jOO still slow, Adam!

 

When u going to the track Kev?

 

When Matthel goes.

 

You don't need MAtthel to go, he will just slow you down even more than what you already are in your Automajic.

Ok well how about you dyno?

 

I went to Group A Motorsports yesterday and they say no dynos until mid January because they're working on a project. They're only 4 blocks away from where I live.

 

then go 4 blocks more and get on the highway.. find another dyno shop

 

I think I will put the quaife on my new mod list.

Thanks for the info Mardi, I forget what FMU disc I have in there now but I changed it out b/c may EGT's were getting about 14-1500 degrees F. So now I am near 1200 in hard running. What are your EGT's under a hard run?

 

LOL

I think Sprintmax has a good head on his shoulders, how about you try his idea

 

you know kev if you are worried about dissapointing all your followers in the 5th Gen Forum.. just do the dyno..if its not high enough.. i am handy with photoshop and excel..

 

What Gen? 4th

Here is some info from this thread...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....5&pagenumber=1

700c=1292f
720c=1328f
770c=1418f
780c=1436f
790c=1454f
810c=1490f
820c=1508f

Normal NA Maxima EGTs are ~770c at full throttle in third or fourth gear.

What SC kit? V1
What pulley? 3.25
What actual boost level at redline? 8.5psi
What FMU disc? 8:1
Peak EGT readings after a full run? 720c
Fuel pressure at full boost? 90ish
Spark plugs? NGK BKR7E two step colder
Track times or dyno numbers? 13.6@102

I ran 13.6 with one step colder plugs.
I pput the 6:1 fmu disc in last night and the car seems MUCH faster. EGT's were 780-790c after a full run.

My Max with I,Y,E and one step colder plat. plugs, peaked at ~770c at the 1/4 mile traps.

My Max with I,Y,E + 100hp nitrous and one step colder plat. plugs peaked at ~810-820c at the 1/4 mile traps.

With 8.5psi of boost, 8:1 FMU disc, and and two step colder copper plugs I got 700c-710c at the 1/4 mile traps.

With 8.5psi of boost, 8:1 FMU disc ,35hp shot of just dry nitrous and two step colder copper plugs, I got ~720-730c at the 1/4 mile traps.

With 8.5 psi of boost, 6:1 FMU disc and and two step colder copper pligs, I got 780-790c at the 1/4 mile traps.

As a reference to A/F ratios when I dynoed with my 100hp shot I got ~12.4:1 A/F ratio. So you could assume that 810-820c is ~12.4:1 A/F Ratio.

Another SC member got 11.8:1 A/F ratio and was at 730c.

You can see how their related.

---------
Your EGT's are LOW. 1200 is way too cold. If you went one size larger that the stock Stillen FMU disk you went 8:1. I did the same thing. If you still have stock plugs dont go back to the 6:1. My advice is put back the 6:1 and go with one step colder plugs. Your car will haul ***. If a NA max gets ~770c (1418f) in a 1/4 mile run 1490f-1508f aint that big of a deal. I would run it up that hot all the time with my nitrous and never had a problem. I am currently running copper plugs wich are ~$2.00 each. I use NGK BKR7E, these are two steps colder and a smaller than stock 0.035" gap. I would recomend you try NGK BKR6E-11, these are one step colder and stock gap. They should help coltroll detonation with the higher EGT's

If you want me to explain further just PM me and I'll give you my phone number.

M

 

prob was an auto GT then, cuz last time I went to the track, I ran against a 5 spd GT and it got a 14.1@99mph, just as fast as you are

 

mustangs are built for 1/4 mile.. they stop accellerating on the top end..

 

Adam your mail box is full....

Here is my reply to your PM

The only benifit of the copper plugs is they are 1/5 the cost of plat's or irid's. IMHO and from what I know their is no substantial performance gain for using plat's or irid's over copper. The coppers wont last as long as the plat's or irid's, mabye only 30k compared to 75k. But as I will be pulling the plugs often on my set up and checking them for detonation, the wear issue dosen't out weigh the cost issue to me. Take the fifty bucks you save and put it toward a 3.33" or 3.25" pulley Now that is a perforance gain for using copper plugs!

Since you currently have one step colder plugs I wouldnt worry about EGT's close to 1500, but over that is a no no! 1600F is about where TurboMax blew a head gasket.

If you put that 6:1 back in you will feel a BIG power gain! Let me know if you dont, but I know you will!!!

 

I just deleted some messages, Sorry

Thanks for the advise I will save my money and just stick with the curren plugs, and maybe even get a bunch of copper plugs, since as yourself I like to check the plugs.

I already have the 3.25 pulley waiting to be installed but I want to work out the fuel system before I do that.

I think I will place the prev disc back (6:1) Thanks I will PM you later. Thanks again

 

Yeah their gearing is more 1/4 mile lowend.

 

Thanks I'll keep that in mind.