[Test] Knock Sensor OBDII Reading
[Test] Knock Sensor OBDII Reading
Good timing, considering there is a thread on bypassing the knock sensor... 
Video on how to replace your knock sensor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ntaxi7bXk
09/03/2010 - Here is the results that I got from my OBDII scanner from when my knock sensor was disabled by unplugging it,
and when I replaced it with the ($37.15 after shipping) knock sensor from here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Results!
Top Left: Absolute Throttle Position | Top Right: Engine RPM
Bottom Left: Ignition Timing Advance for #1 Cylinder | Bottom Right: Vehicle Speed
http://www.andrewdefilippis.com/uplo...Comparison.png


Video on how to replace your knock sensor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ntaxi7bXk
09/03/2010 - Here is the results that I got from my OBDII scanner from when my knock sensor was disabled by unplugging it,
and when I replaced it with the ($37.15 after shipping) knock sensor from here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Results!
Top Left: Absolute Throttle Position | Top Right: Engine RPM
Bottom Left: Ignition Timing Advance for #1 Cylinder | Bottom Right: Vehicle Speed
http://www.andrewdefilippis.com/uplo...Comparison.png

Last edited by swatspyder; Sep 3, 2010 at 08:23 PM.
So wait, there are spots where having the KS removed has higher spots on the graph than having a new KS... am I missing something? Shouldn't the green be above the red at all times considering no KS = retarded timing and retarded timing= slower car?
If you read what is in the OP, you will know. 
Essentially, what you are looking at under WOT, is me running from 0 mph to ~40 mph, 1st gear. You can see the green line (new KS) under engine RPM reaches ~4,600 RPM faster than the red line (no KS).
You can also see under vehicle speed, there is a slight lag in acceleration without the KS, and with the new KS, you can see that it is a smooth acceleration up to ~40 mph.
The ignition timing advance is also entirely different with and without the KS connected. It doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure this one out.
In short, your car is slower without a KS.

Essentially, what you are looking at under WOT, is me running from 0 mph to ~40 mph, 1st gear. You can see the green line (new KS) under engine RPM reaches ~4,600 RPM faster than the red line (no KS).
You can also see under vehicle speed, there is a slight lag in acceleration without the KS, and with the new KS, you can see that it is a smooth acceleration up to ~40 mph.
The ignition timing advance is also entirely different with and without the KS connected. It doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure this one out.
In short, your car is slower without a KS.
Without the KS, you can see the timing goes from 10 degrees to ~8 degrees, then up to ~13 degrees. The car is also slower to reach ~4,600 RPM without the KS.
By looking at the graph, I would estimate that the car could be around 1 second slower, just through 1st gear.
Last edited by swatspyder; Sep 4, 2010 at 03:46 AM.
If you read what is in the OP, you will know. 
Essentially, what you are looking at under WOT, is me running from 0 mph to ~40 mph, 1st gear. You can see the green line (new KS) under engine RPM reaches ~4,600 RPM faster than the red line (no KS).
You can also see under vehicle speed, there is a slight lag in acceleration without the KS, and with the new KS, you can see that it is a smooth acceleration up to ~40 mph.
The ignition timing advance is also entirely different with and without the KS connected. It doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure this one out.
In short, your car is slower without a KS.

Essentially, what you are looking at under WOT, is me running from 0 mph to ~40 mph, 1st gear. You can see the green line (new KS) under engine RPM reaches ~4,600 RPM faster than the red line (no KS).
You can also see under vehicle speed, there is a slight lag in acceleration without the KS, and with the new KS, you can see that it is a smooth acceleration up to ~40 mph.
The ignition timing advance is also entirely different with and without the KS connected. It doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure this one out.
In short, your car is slower without a KS.

Next time, resize the pix - these threads suck when you gotta scroll side to side to read everything.
As interesting as this may be for some techy peeps out there, I gotta ask - who cares this much (besides you) to post all of this? lol It says right in the FSM that the KS can affect 'performance' by running the ECU differently. I do find the info you posted to pretty much do as expected. This is not news to a lot of .Org'rz, but I guess now nobody can argue with either this info, or the FSM statements.
Next time, resize the pix - these threads suck when you gotta scroll side to side to read everything.
Next time, resize the pix - these threads suck when you gotta scroll side to side to read everything.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
and the software I am using is ScanMaster-ELM:
http://www.wgsoft.de/en/shop/obd-2-s...aster-elm.html
knock sensor code P025 ONLY!
I have a 1999 maxima and I'm getting P0325 code and nothing else. No mil light. I clear it and drive around for a while and it eventualy comes back. The car runs great! Excellent MPG. Use high test. What is the most likely cause? Can car pass NY inspection? I've read the threads on replacing it and it dosen't sound like fun. Any help on this is appreciated.
If the code keeps coming back, there is something wrong. If there is no other code besides the P0325, then the knock sensor is it. But make sure that the engine is not knocking otherwise you will still get the code even with a new sensor.
As for the MIL light, that is the way it works - P0325 does not turn on the light.
I don't know about passing a NY inspection, but if they hook up any kind of diagnostic machine, you will probably fail. Also, after you resolve your problem and clear the code, you have to drive the car for about 75-80 miles to get the code erased from the ecu before you get the inspection.
As for the MIL light, that is the way it works - P0325 does not turn on the light.
I don't know about passing a NY inspection, but if they hook up any kind of diagnostic machine, you will probably fail. Also, after you resolve your problem and clear the code, you have to drive the car for about 75-80 miles to get the code erased from the ecu before you get the inspection.
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