Guys,

first off i have read some stickies and wanted to see if any one outhere had some helpful insight as to what im trying to do.

I finally got to tuning my 4.5 via safc2, was running really rich without corrections and I have it in the 12.3-12.5s range after a couple days of playing around with it.

I know every car is different, but seeing as many guys have done the 3.5 swap, maybe someone outhere already has spent some time on the dyno , even the 5.5 guys, and have seen dyno results as to how lean to get or the point where leaner isnt really making more power.

I have asked a couple guys , one said 12.8s, Eddy 95blckmax said 13.7s lol you can see the diff.

car has the basics
short ebay header/y
test pipe w cutout
2.5 catback
in fender cold air
vis delete plate
5 sp stock rpm stock ecu w safc2 fuel psi @ 51 lbs , walbro,

trying to save time on the dyno hence $$ so im trying to get to the dynoas close to the ideal afr as possible.

oh and if you guys have any little cheap mods worth the money vs power ratio i may not have let me know .

 

Just like you said, every car is different. See if you can find some dyno time and experiment.

Good luck with the car, should run good once its tuned properly.

 

12.9-13.1 is where most VQs make their power.

 

+1

 

thanks guys, i have the afrs at about 12.6-7s now, tom ill update w results, going to lean it out till i dont see any gains

 

I think both jime and aaron both run theirs cars in the 12.8-13.1 range also

edit: almost forgot my G35 is tuned to 12.8-13.0 range with max timing 32degree's forget which rpm be it was in the uppers rpms and it was in 26-28degree in the mid rpm range . The car didn't make anymore power going any leaner or with more timing. I had a vp104 race fuel map but was since only able run 34degrees of timing and only gained like 4-5hp and at 9bucks a gal wasn't worth it to me so I erased it for a nitrous map. I gained power across the entire powerband along with 8hp peak and 14hp/16tq in the midrange. Hope this helps

mods were testpipes, intake spacer and z-tube

 

right around 13.0 is where you want to be.

 

yeah guys, you were right, the car made the most power at 12.9-13.0 and thats were i left it. i took out 1% accross the whole range , and then i lost 2-3 ponies, so i brought it back down. Im not super excited about the numbers, but for not having spacers, or real engine mods i was content. the cutout was worth 10 whp and didnt show any loss in bottom end, in actually it made about 1-2 more hp on the low end as well.

the cutout sits low so im going to decide wether i drop n cams to help the curve stay up with a 3inh y and catback( it peaks and drops back down after about 5800). or ill decide on boosting. still on the ropes about it.

 

so what were the final #'s

btw, I would boost it 8psi and a stock rev limit that motor should last ever or a jwt ecu/eu, ssim and a 3inch exhaust.

 

235.9 Whp & 232 tq


Just picked up some S1 knock-of cams, any one know if the oem springs are good enough? the revup oil pump worth it?

 

Add the springs add the pump. No point in just throwing in the cams. The oil pump/springs will add extra durability to your current mods/future mods. Power is addictive

 

well trying to see if anyone has experience w oem springs, ultimately the best thing is to add everything but if its not needed id like to weigh the costs out.

hr springs or crower springs, def going to do the pump

 

From what I was reading the stock springs can hold past 7.5k rpms, its the lower end that doesn't go so well. Just from what i've read.

 

Stock springs on stock cams, yes. Aggressive cams will cause the valves to float beyond 6,500 RPM without a stiffer valvetrain. And on VQ35s after 7200 you'll wanna at least upgrade rod bolts and main bearings.

 

are the hr springs better than de? i dont plan on reving past 6850 or 7k max, seen too many bearing failures with guys revving 7200

 

got any links of what you have been reading?

 

Yes. HR springs are better.

 

will they be good enough for the s1s? i have to check their costs in comparison to aftermarket

 

yeah, like stated above you'll need the hr springs with the cams, the oil pump is for peace of mind but if you are not going to rev pass 7k the stock pump is fine

 

honestly for 100 bucks im going to do the pump. but how has it been proven to be better?? does the revup z revv higher from the factory? has volume or pressure testing been done somewhere on the revup pump?

kinda would like to think im buying a pump bc its somewhat proven better kow what i mean

 

Nobody mentioned double shimming the HR springs.

Rev up Z = 7100 vs 6550 from the factory.


These were the prices 2 years ago:

Springs-

24@ 4.14ea- $99.36

Shims-

48@ $1.24ea- $29.76

 

Check out Aaron's build thread he compared both the stock and hr pumps. He also took them apart and has some pic's too

 

This.

 

Are you talking about the rev-up or Hi-rev pump? Do they run the same oil pump?

 

yeah sorry rev-up

 

$59.52

 

thats double price jump , but it will have to be done. thanks for the info fellas, 95blkmax will help me w the install godwilling (:

 

so your going to do it with the motor in the car, brave man my hats off you guys

 

yeah, streetz did the 3.5 swap/timing chains also with the engine on the car, Ed did his cams and heads in the car, so hes familiar with it all. I wouldnt as i have not done the timing on the car inside, but with Eds experience and streetz maybe around it should all be a one day affair.


or so it "should" cant be more than a week as i will need to drive back up here

 

. Initially he was only going to give me one set ... so you're right, that's the price for double shims.

 

heres a dyno pull and a 370z 3rd gear run



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C1y2FlQ7x34

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GH6yLKw4Lgg