Blew my clutch today
Blew my clutch today
I was driving down the street and all thew sudden it was real hard to shift, then i couldnt and my clutch stuck to the floor. I had it towed and my mechanic said i need a new clutch. I am going to go with a ACT Streetdisc, do they come with all the bearings and what not i need to have replaced? Is it worth having my flywheel shaved at the same time? thanx
Re: Blew my clutch today
Originally posted by Booner8269
I was driving down the street and all thew sudden it was real hard to shift, then i couldnt and my clutch stuck to the floor. I had it towed and my mechanic said i need a new clutch. I am going to go with a ACT Streetdisc, do they come with all the bearings and what not i need to have replaced? Is it worth having my flywheel shaved at the same time? thanx
I was driving down the street and all thew sudden it was real hard to shift, then i couldnt and my clutch stuck to the floor. I had it towed and my mechanic said i need a new clutch. I am going to go with a ACT Streetdisc, do they come with all the bearings and what not i need to have replaced? Is it worth having my flywheel shaved at the same time? thanx
Brian Murray
87 RX-7 Turbo II (w/mods)
89 Maxima GXE (daily)
sounds like your throwout bearing disintegrated to me. happened to me on my old mitsu truck a few years ago. Ever pulled a tranny on the side of the highway? it's a b!tch.
But yeah.. if it's the throwout bearing, you'll have to pull the tranny anyway, so you might as well get a new clutch.
and YES, shave the flywheel. it would be stupid not to. your mechanic will know where to get that done locally.
when you order the ACT kit (I recommend courtesy. that's where I bought mine), just make sure you tell them you'll need all the parts necessary.
the parts listed on my receipt are:
NM1-HDMM (ACT clutch)
32113-03E00 (oil seal,I)
32232-30000 (bushing 1st S)- whatever that is.
12279-0M300 (oil seal,c)
I bought a new rear main seal and tranny input shaft seal.. the tranny input shaft seal is on the INSIDE of the tranny, so you can't change it. you don't need to buy it. but DO replace the rear main seal.. the part # will probably be different for your VG over my VE, but you should replace it now. a $5 part for $400 labor if it leaks after you put everything back together.
New throwout bearing and pilot bushing are included in the ACT kit.
But yeah.. if it's the throwout bearing, you'll have to pull the tranny anyway, so you might as well get a new clutch.
and YES, shave the flywheel. it would be stupid not to. your mechanic will know where to get that done locally.
when you order the ACT kit (I recommend courtesy. that's where I bought mine), just make sure you tell them you'll need all the parts necessary.
the parts listed on my receipt are:
NM1-HDMM (ACT clutch)
32113-03E00 (oil seal,I)
32232-30000 (bushing 1st S)- whatever that is.
12279-0M300 (oil seal,c)
I bought a new rear main seal and tranny input shaft seal.. the tranny input shaft seal is on the INSIDE of the tranny, so you can't change it. you don't need to buy it. but DO replace the rear main seal.. the part # will probably be different for your VG over my VE, but you should replace it now. a $5 part for $400 labor if it leaks after you put everything back together.
New throwout bearing and pilot bushing are included in the ACT kit.
I do have a VE so are those parts one of the seals your talking about? Thanks for the help.
I bought a new rear main seal and tranny input shaft seal.. the tranny input shaft seal is on the INSIDE of the tranny, so you can't change it. you don't need to buy it. but DO replace the rear main seal.. the part # will probably be different for your VG over my VE, but you should replace it now. a $5 part for $400 labor if it leaks after you put everything back together.
yeah.. one of the seals is the tranny input shaft seal, the other is the rear main seal. I don't know which is which. call courtesy and just tell them you need everything to replace your clutch, AND a rear main seal if it's not already in the kit.
Personally i would replace it myself. I have a 93' SE and ive replaced my clutch twice. its a pain in butt but it only cost me $180 for nissan clutch and $30 to have flywheel turned and $8 for gear oil!! A whole lot cheaper than $900!!!
Originally posted by Booner8269
Hey i just got a estimate of around 900 to have my clutch replaced, thats with a stock clutch, but is this right??? Does it really cost this mutch to replace a clutch in a maxima?
Hey i just got a estimate of around 900 to have my clutch replaced, thats with a stock clutch, but is this right??? Does it really cost this mutch to replace a clutch in a maxima?
Brian Murray
87 RX-7 Turbo II (w/mods)
89 Maxima GXE (daily)
Hey i no this has been answered and im loking through searches know, but i want to make sure i lighten my flywheel at a safe amount that is still worth doing. Ive read some have done 4-6 pounds of the flywheel, the faq says 3 is safe, so with my new clutch what would youu guys suggest, a exact # and were should i tell them to shave it off or does a shop know were to shave it? thanx, i didnt want to start a new thread
Sorry another question. jeff92se said
Now if my vtc's are bad and ticking will this not affect my performance of revving quicker,getting to the sweet pat activating my vtc's,cause i still might disable them.
had the stock unit lightened and balanced(with the pressure plate. Important!). Stock=19lbs lightened=16lbs. Not earth shattering but that's about how much you can safely take out. They took most of the meat out of the outer ring just under the ring gear. The VE needs to get to a certain rpm asap to activate the VTCs and get into the sweet part of the torque band(which is about 3300+ rpm) This thing is only 3 lbs lighter but I can tell the engine gets up and goes easier. Revs faster and keeps on revin'. Drivabilty has not suffered at all. Cost of the lightening/balancing/resurfacing = $160. Not bad considering aftermarket aluminum units cost $500+
Originally posted by Booner8269
Hey i no this has been answered and im loking through searches know, but i want to make sure i lighten my flywheel at a safe amount that is still worth doing. Ive read some have done 4-6 pounds of the flywheel, the faq says 3 is safe, so with my new clutch what would youu guys suggest, a exact # and were should i tell them to shave it off or does a shop know were to shave it? thanx, i didnt want to start a new thread
Hey i no this has been answered and im loking through searches know, but i want to make sure i lighten my flywheel at a safe amount that is still worth doing. Ive read some have done 4-6 pounds of the flywheel, the faq says 3 is safe, so with my new clutch what would youu guys suggest, a exact # and were should i tell them to shave it off or does a shop know were to shave it? thanx, i didnt want to start a new thread
pics of my lightened flywheel (and my old burned up clutch) are located on my website.
If you look closely at the original and the lightened flywheel, you'll see they removed the large ring on the back of the flywheel. this will be the best place to do it, as all it's for is to add rotating mass to make the car run smoother.
www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/clutch/
But yeah.. if it's the throwout bearing, you'll have to pull the tranny anyway, so you might as well get a new clutch.
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