I have seen many prices online, from Dave B and from the Nissan dealer.

Here's one page I looked at:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ss_sensor.html
Production: 12/2001 is $230
Production: 06/2001-11/2001 is $409

And Dave B is around $400-$500 with the dealer being in the same range, however you get the part right away.

That being said, has anyone went the aftermarket MAF route and saw no problems?

 

ebay has a lot of them for under 100 bucks

There is also a thread floating around about how to convert the cheaper older ones by just removing your thermistor from the old one and putting it on the 2001 version.

 

Here is the link from the 5th gen Stickys: 5th gen MAF retro for 5.5. (A little hard to find because the 5th gen stickys are a bit disorganized)

 

I know, I left that out hopefully as an indication I wasn't considering that.

Just pop off the IAT and crimp onto the 2000 MAF but I would feel a lot better knowing I have a perfectly new MAF so I can pick up the berk intake with apexi dry air filter. Hopefully no more MAF problems!

Yes, ebay is another source but I would not consider ebay for a part such as this.

 

Do exactly that. Buy the 2001 MAF Sensor brand new from Nissan, and swap the IAT thermistor. Save yourself $300 for toys.

The parts are 100% identical, but one has a $2 thermistor clipped to it, and one doesn't.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

EDIT: it's a $0.63 thermistor. Go figure.

 

Not only are they identical, but the 01 sensor is more robust than the 02 sensor.

 

It works. It took about 3 extra minutes and saved me about $300. I got the 01 one from Courtesy parts for 80 something instead of $400+

 

That's that then, I'm going to order the 2001 from my local dealer and do the swap Monday after work. Car feels down on power occasionally for example when going up hills. Sometimes it'll feel great but other times it'll feel like a 2 liter engine going up hills.

Also since the MAF isn't working properly I BET that everything is running rich ending up wasting fuel.

I'll get a few pictures if I've got time.

 

I had an occasional loss of power going on with my 2002. It was my VIAS system failing. Block plate cured power loss completely. There is no code set for this problem (Just pending, no CEL)

Also, I used an older MAF with the swapped thermistor as well.

 

Craig, I was going to post a question about the VIAS today but did not have time. Is there a way to tell if it is working or not? I think on the 00-01, they kick in at 5000rpms, but on the 02 and 03 at about 3600rpms? With the block plate don't you lose some low-end power?

 

If you're modified, not so much that you notice it. And even then.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...r-5-5-gen.html

 

I did not notice any low end loss at all. I only really did the plate because it was inexpensive, and I found I had a pending VIAS code (P1800) and intermittent power delivery problems.

As I said earlier, the VIAS code, and intermittent power problems are totally gone after installing the plate.

I recommend it! It if anything makes the engine simpler and there is less to go wrong.

 

The inspection for the 5.5 gen is to warm engine to operating temperature, then quickly rev engine up to 5,000 and above while making sure the power rod actuator moves.

 

The activation point is actually around 3900rpms on the 02 and 03. And if you're modded, it's going to be worth it. ESPECIALLY if you have Aaron's spacers.

 

I figure this is as good of a thread as any to post this in, so here goes:

Rochester, do you know if it's possible to buy the thermistor separately? I ask because I did the 2k1 swap a few months ago after my MAF blew out, and lately I've been getting an IAT code (which ever one indicates abnormally high IAT circuit voltage). I know my thermistor is seated well because I soldered it in when I did the swap, so I'm thinking it must be the thermistor itself that is malfunctioning.
I don't know if this IAT 'high voltage' is actually causing a difference in performance, but if it's possible to get a $2 replacement thermistor, it'd definitely be worth my time and money IMO...

 

Yes. I got mine from 2slow last year, which I clipped into a 2001 MAF, then soldered down. My old MAF is right nere on the desk, with OEM thermistor intact. (The old MAF is my back-up now.)

Anyway, 2slow figured out the specs and bought a packet of Honeywell thermistors. Pretty sure the cost is negligible.

Give him a shout and see if he can provide a part number and retail contact.

 

Just for clarification, the 02+VQ35 FWD VIAS is a 2 stage process.

 

I got the swap done! Wasn't very hard at all. Just be careful, go slow and do not touch the IAT wire. Use needle nose pliers to pull apart the 2002 MAF so you can lift out the IAT wire. Just break off that plastic bit at the bottom.

To install on the 2001 MAF carefully place the IAT wire in the same configuration it was on the 2002 MAF, then pinch the metal holders closed. Don't bother with the plastic; you can melt it closed for added security. I left it alone, might go back and solder the metal clips a little bit.

So far, engine started right away, no MIL no problems. I also popped in a paper air filter and I pulled the old MAF tube.

Engine "feels" better but I'll know longer term. Next up is the berk intake with the apexi dry filter!

 

Well, I'm pretty sure that, concerning the parts we order, the 2001 MAF comes as just the sensor all bundled up, and the 2003 MAF comes complete and mounted inside its nifty, hard-plastic tube. Obviously, it's not the sensor that costs $300 more... The sensor probably costs $10 more and that plastic costs $295... Right?


I remember reading about 2slow's freaking sweet analysis of the thermistor and stuff. If I recall, they are something like just under $2 each? I just snatched the MAF off an '02 at the local Pull-A-Part (the SECOND day it was there!) and plan on cleaning it, stripping that one's thermistor, and installing it into my car. That car grew up in middle-Kentucky, where the incidence of snow and road-salt is much smaller than middle-Ohio.

 

Nope. The 2001 MAF comes as sensor + housing, just like the 2002-2003 MAF.

 

Did anyone who did the IAT swap onto a 2001 MAF did any engine or ECM update at the dealer? The sheet of paper in the box from the 2001 MAF indicated some special tuning had to be done.

 

My dealership told me it didn't need it after I did the swap.

 

Nope. Plug-n-play.

 

I did it Fri night and didn't reset the ECU. Just did the swap and it ran great.

 

I have a used 5.5 MAF for sale...

 

That is what I was thinking because I had 0 problems after the swap. I might go back and solder the connections on the MAF because I am paranoid about it, but a little pinch from pliers seems to have the IAT locked in.

 

I soldered mine in. There was a thread a while back where MIK3 only clipped his in, but it actually came loose after a few days. So he soldered it in on the second effort.

Paranoia is a good thing if it makes you thorough.

 

I didn't just clip it, I crimped the connectors on the MAF with pliers, but I just need to pick up a low cost soldering iron to make a solid connection which I won't have to worry about.

 

I'm curious about your mpg's after this swap. I had to replace my maf early this year. Was getting 29-32 on the interstate before swap. Now I never get over 25-26. Changed plugs when replacing rear valvecover but they didn't help any. Been thinking of finding a real '02 maf to try.

 

I thought bad gas milage meant the evap canister or the vias block plate was what to check or look at or try.