Hi Everyone, need your help. Since my 2003 SE has some oil burning problem, I was told by a mechanic that Engine Restore could help, so I added one can this afternoon after oil change. And after a few miles, my car starts shaking when putting brake on, and later even the Service engine light is on. Could someone know what happened to my car? Damn the restorer. Thanks a lot.

 

The shaking when applying the brakes is most likely warped or high spots on the rotors, and has nothing to do with the Engine Restore application. I doubt that the SES light is related to it either.

 

Wrong.

Camshaft position sensor just got FUBAR'd. Here's how you fix it now: Get a quart of ATF, put it in, run the car 200-300 miles, and change your oil. The lanolin in the ATF will clean out the gunk you just put into your engine.

PS: Don't put that crap in your car again.


PPS: I know because I did it on mine in 2004.

 

Hi trooplewis, thanks for your input. I don't have this problem yesterday, and right after I added the Engine restore I am in trouble. Will SES light be on when brake rotor has a problem?

 

Thank you so much, GBAUER. What is ATF? Should I change the oil right now and add ATF?

 

Automatic
Transmission
Fluid

 

Y
e
s
.

 

Could be the CPS, but I don't see how that would only appear when applying the brakes as the OP says.

 

Thank you. Is it safe to put ATF into engine? Which brand do you suggest?

 

The brand and/or type doesn't matter. Just get the cheapest ATF you can, put it in, let the lanolin do it's thing then change the oil. It's an old wrencher's trick to keep the guts of an engine clean. I do it in my wife's IS250, my BMW M Roadster and my Jeep with 205,000 miles on it that doesn't burn a drop of oil. I used to run it in my maxima too. It really does clean the inside well.

That said if you'd prefer you can use Seafoam in the engine to do the same job.

This Seafoam:



NOT this seafoam:

 

 

You can never be too clear...

http://www.audiforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80267

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226570

http://my.is/forums/f87/crashed-my-baby-147582/?pp=30

Just to name a few....

 

Thanks a lot, GBAUER. I will try ATF first. Should I change oil first and add ATF at the same time?

 

Pull the code...

You may have clogged the passages in the IVT solenoids.

 

Wow I wouldn't pour that shi+ in my lawnmower!

 

Add the ATF to the existing oil, run it, change oil.

 

LMAO @ the pics...i have a quick question...so it IS safe to put seafoam in your crankcase? cool to know if it is. i think ill run a qt of ATF in my engine when i hit 200k miles

 

Yes for a bit. You don't want to continuously run on the stuff as it thins out the oil but it does clean the inside of the engine for cases like the OP (or my Jeep that builds up sludge...).

In a 200k max I would only do it if there's a problem. If you're running a synthetic oil you probably don't need it.

 

i'm running valvoline max life synthetic now, started about 20k miles ago...only problems i have mainly are my coolant leak and infamous coilpack, skipping issue (soon to be taken care of).

 

What type of engine restore was it the actual brand Engine Restore or Lucas or something of that sort used Lucas before a couple of times and nothing happened but slowed down the oil burner a little..

 

if you use proper oil (not junk) and change it regularly you should never need to add anything to your oil...ever. I'd never trust a 'mechanic in a bottle', how'd he get in there in the first place?

I've def heard the ATF trick before so good luck OP.

 

From what I read over the past few years Restore is not good for these OHC sensor laden engines. It does work pretty well for pushrod engines though.

 

Worked well in my '74 Z/28 that was burning a quart of 60w oil every 40-50 miles. With Restore, I was getting 150 miles between quarts.

Not sure why the engine burned so much oil, but the personalize plates when I got the car said L88-Z28 and the car had zero options other than the Z/28 option. Pretty sure the original L-82 350 was yanked and the car raced with a 427. Engine probably sat a good while, then was put back in to sell the car. Still ran real strong, more than enough to put multiple car lengths on C4 Corvettes not on the street, of course.

I heard someone else mention using Restore messed up his engine here, post was a couple years ago.

 

Wow, the first and the third ones are just moronic .

 

How much sea foam is safe to add the the cc before the oil change?

 

Standard practice is half the bottle in the crank case, half in the fuel tank. The bottle has recommendations on it. Sea Foam thins the oil, so don't run with it in there for more than 100-150 miles. My personal preference is to run it 40-50.

 

 

lol, I thought that was the OP asking that question.

 

Stay away from all those "engine" enhancer BS products...Too many stories of cars getting messed up from them

 

Hi guys, after I changed oil and add 6oz sea foam, the car runs better now, but still has a rough idle and SES is on with P0011 (varible valve timeing solenoid) and P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) code. Is the camshaft position sensor still dirty? I checked the threads on the forum, and it looks the Variable valve timing solenoid/valve may also get dirty. Can I continue to drive with these two codes? Thanks.

 

question..you added the 6oz to the crankcase or via brake booster hose?

 

I added 6oz to the crankcase. This evening when I drove back home, the engine became much smoother during idle suddenly. It looks like the sea foam is continuing working. I will confirm tomorrow if it is still good. Then I will get the code cleared and test if the codes come back.

 

....and you will change the oil soon.

 

did you add oil into the engine too? also it could be many things a miss fire anything could be a problem with that

 

On a sidenote...I thought that Seafoam was added in 1/3's.....1/3 to the engine crankcase (via oil fill) 1/3 to the intake manifold (via brake booster hose or any other nipple on the manifold) and 1/3 to the gas tank.........and definitely change the oil out after about 50-100 miles of seafoam in the crankcase.....will surely thin out the oil a bit....

 

That engine Restore, and STP engine treatment is nothing but molasses!!! It's not helping a thing, just filling your engine oil pan with thick a$$ syrup! If there was something liquid that could restore metal to metallic surfaces we wouldn't need any machine shops.....

 

I assume there's a great reason you didn't just go and ask the "mechanic" that reccomended this fix-in-a-bottle.

So, what is it?

 

Should pull up the one where some dude ran water through his 5.0L Cobra on mustangforums...

Got it: http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-...-this-car.html

 

What a fcukin idiot. Dumb **** like that makes me