ok, I can finally post a new thread! (met the 15 minimum criteria)

Anyways, I have an issue with my 2k2 maxima gle. I have a strange clunk coming from the right front wheel area when driving over bumps or a bumpy road. It feels like a metal to metal clunk and only happens when I drive over bumps.

Here's what I've done so far and only after taking it to a trusty mechanic and I even took it to another mechanic to get a second opinion. First mechanic told me it was the struts, so I put new KYB's all around (for peace of mind) and the two front ones I also replaced the strut mounts. Drove it around over bumps and the clunk was still there.

Second mechanic said it was the lower control arm because the bushings were worn, not badly but they were cracked, he also mentioned it could be a the ball joint on the control arm. Well the control arm comes complete with ball joint. I replace it with a new one and guess what? The clunk is still there! I also replaced the two outter tie rod end links as the rubber boots where shot and no lubrication whatsoever. Put some new ones in with servicable grease nipples. I still have the clunk when I drive over bumps.

Someone told me it could be my motor mounts, but how do I know which one? Or could it be something else, I'm tired of throwing money at it and no results. Please help. Is there anyone local to me that can take a look and point me in the right direction?

Thanks for your help.

 

a blown ball joint is easy to tell...its probably what it is to be honest...but without driving it or being there its hard to tell...take it to another mechanic

 

I had that problem until I installed the sub frame collars that they have sold here. I have BC coilovers and still had the clunk, so I though I would try the collars because everyone seems to have good luck with them. I have to say that clunk went to more of a thud, definitely takes the bumps a little better. I was pleasantly surprised. Just a thought, not to dismiss any other problems that you might be having but I did these first and it definitely helped that clunk.

http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...e-collars.html

 

2K2 SE. Im havin the same problem... just got my BC's, when install them I'm gonna check n c if I can find anything outta the ordinary. If I find anything ill let u know...

 

Check your transverse engine mount - pretty common.

 

LCA bushings or strut mounts would have been my first guess. But I'm sure a bad engine mount could do the same thing.

 

^^ Also plausible culprits. But out of those two, it's more likely to be strut mounts than LCA bushings.

 

8 times outta ten with this car the infamous clunk is from the front end stabalizer end links or the passenger side (front on a transverse V6) motor mount. If you look back at alot of the threads/post regarding this clunk one of those 2 solved the problem 80% of the time.

 

Wow guys! Thanks for all the quick replies. I'll check my transverse mount next! Seems like that's my next choice on the list since I've already replace quite a few parts.

 

When they installed the struts, did they put in new dust boots and a bump stop. Bump stop prevent the struts from bottoming out when you hit a bump. If no bump stop is present, you will hear a loud clunk or bang on every bump you hit. Simple things like that can save you money and a headache.

 

Typically bumpstops/dustboots are two pieces in the same unit when you buy aftermarket. With the late version OEM part, they're actually fully integrated, one piece.

 

i know this will sound stupid but put a few layers of electrical tape around the loop of your hood latch. I was chasing a clunk all over my car. all it was was the hood. go figure. Start with this since its the cheapest and see what it does for you.

 

Passenger side motor mount. Then get the car re-aligned, you'll need it.

 

+1 on endlinks and motor mounts. Check the bushings for the stabilizer bar when you are down there anyway as well. For motor mounts a trusty crowbar would go a long way to diagnose.

 

check out my link I posted awhile back about this same issue. pretty sure this is your problem

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ise-video.html

 

Here are my results from testing of the motor mount, passenger side. Check the video below. Is this normal movement?



Here's a different angle to see just how much the engine moves.

 

Yeah, thats a lot of movement. On the plus side, looks like your VIAS is working properly.

 

Just wanted to say Thanks to everyone for helping me out! I finished changing the transverse motor mount and NO MORE CLUNK!!!

here is my old one, as you can see it was shot!



heres a closer look at the crack

 

the one thing i've noticed about the maxima is it's never a simple solution. you have to pretty much eliminate every possibility and it's usually the last one which is the problem. although you claim to have found the solution to your problem, you might suddenly hear the clunking noise the next time you drive it. it's hard to tell exactly what the noise sounds like because you're explaining it to us, but i have motor mount problems on my maxima too, i haven't gotten them fixed. i did have a clunking noice when i was going over legit bumps in the road.

i'm not talking about potholes or road to bridge surfaces, i'm talking about the actual uneven creases that form in the road when paved poorly. you may have eliminated a problem, but should you hear the noise again and you're on the verge of going insane, have a mechanic check your sway-bar links..

 

Four days of driving it and my problem has not come back (knock on wood). I take the same route to work everyday and pass over the same cracks and bumps and uneven pavement and I distictly remember what these bumps and cracks sounded like when going over them. I had pinpointed my clunk noise comming from the right passenger side by the front wheel somewhere. The transverse mount is in the right general area of where I was getting the clunk noise from, so I took the advice of others on the ORG and changed it.

I have payed really close attention to it these last four days, I turn of the radio and really try to feel or hear the clunk over the bumps i know produced the clunk before I replaced the mount, well..., no more clunk.

I really feel that this was the fix. Thanks for the input and if I ever do get a new clunk noise, I'll be checking those sway bar links.

 

Hey man, I think I may have the same problem. How hard was replacing that bad boy? Do u know of a how-to write up? If not happy to hear u got rid of that clunk, it's driving me crazy

 

Did you get another OEM mount? or did you go aftermarket with some urethane? I have the same problem, will need to swap out mines soon.

 

Installed BC's n new inner n outer tie rods, still here a clunk... took my car to my friends shop dis mornin, hopefully he can find what it is! Dis **** is irritating my nerves!!

 

I've been going through these posts for a while due to minor suspension noise while traveling over small bumps and road imperfections. Over the past few months I installed new struts/mounts and replaced the paper strut isolator with one made of polyurethane sheet (I fashioned it myself). Although the vehicle did need new struts, it had about 140K miles at the time, the noise remained unchanged. Since installing the struts I confirmed that the lower control arm bushings, ball joints and motor mounts were all good.

This past weekend, while 250 miles from home, the minor suspension noise became a major noise. The mild clunk turned into a sharp "crack" when breaking, accelerating, and turning the steering wheel while stopped. My take at the time: The right ball joint failed and was about to separate. I made it home and to my surprise I found the noise coming from the rear-right engine sub-frame (cradle) bushing.

The Investigation: I removed the nut and bell-shaped retainer under the rear-right sub-frame bushing (fortunately, I had an impact wrench). With the nut and retainer off I was able to confirm that the rubber busing was in very good shape and not worn out. But, I observed that the steel collar in the middle of the bushing (through which the 14mm stud passes) is at least 3/16" larger than the diameter of the stud. The steel bushing collar did not appear to have worn or "stretched" over the life of the vehicle, but the collar seems to be sized larger than necessary to ease assembly.

The hypothesis: Over time, the bell-shaped retainer loosens from the steel bushing collar and allows the entire assembly to move in relation to the 14MM stud. Eventually, the stud and the collar begin banging into each other causing the suspension noise.

The fix: Using a bit of silicone lubrication and a heated-air gun I was able to push a piece of 1/2" PEX plumbing tubing over the 14MM stud and into the steel bushing collar. Once I found a suitable material (PEX tubing) the fix took about 10 minutes. Although the noise was clearly coming from the rear-right bushing, I "PEXed" the rear-left bushing too.

The result: The suspension noise is COMPLETELY GONE! Also, the sub-frame, which is designed to have some movement in relation to the body of the vehicle, moves a bit less now. Movement between the sub-frame and vehicle body is controlled by the bushings as it should be.

A final thought: I plan to "PEX" the front sub-frame bushings as soon as I have some free time. I can't discern any noise coming from the front bushings at this time, but the fix is so easy and appears completely effective. Also, I wondered why the sub-frame bushings have that bell-shaped retainer. After removing the nut and retainer I realized that the retainer is bell shaped to prevent the sub-frame from falling off the vehicle if the rubber bushing fails. What a good idea!

Any questions, feel free to email me. bobf645@gmail.com

Bob

 

Bob, did you take any pictures of the above descriptions? They would help for everyone to visualize what you did.

 

Amen!

 

Makes sense - once you find the problem,you stop looking for it!

Seriously though, those of you chasing down clunks: have one or two buddies bounce your car up &down while you listen for the source of the clunk. If you can't pinpoint it, grab a piece of hose, hold it to your ear and use it as a stethoscope. Move the other end around & stick it into the hard-to-get places. Oh, and careful with the hood coming down on your noggin!

 

No, I didn't. I thought about it when I was under the vehicle, but that's about as far as it went. If you'd like, I can draw a diagram of the stud, bushing and how the PEX is installed.

Bob

 

A picture would work. Thanks!

 

Pictures coming this coming weekend......

 

Could you please post the pics? Having same issue

 

Dobber66: Please check your private messages.

Bob

 

Bob,

It would be best if you posted the pictures in the thread for everyone to see. Use imageshack, dropbox, etc to host your pictures.

 

Yes, you're absolutely right, and I will do that as soon as I have time to remove the nuts and bushing retainers. My private message was an offer to provide assistance over the phone prior to posting pictures.

Bob