Hi
125k miles,NO CEL,idle is fine....Lose of power that sucks big time.
New MAF,new NGK plugs,new precats,new main cat,new air filter,new O2 sensors,new fuel filter,new nissan clutch,ECU update,Shell 93 V-power...

please do I have a bad TB ? before I sell the car

PS..If yes , have anyone an experiene with the $193.xx reman TB from DaveB ? I know he's great guy but what about his TBs ?

PS2...Sometimes when I go WOT from any speed especially slow , car does nothing like Iam not on the gas then slowly accelerate..

 

if the TB was bad you would be throwing a code for the throttle position sensor.

 

Have you tried the relearn procedure, recently? Also, what are your driving habits? Try to be very specific with that last one.

DaveB is the parts manager(I believe this is his new title) at Southpoint Nissan in Austin, TX. He gives wholesale prices to Nissan club/forum affiliates. It is an actual brick and mortar Nissan dealer that sells Nissan parts. Purchasing a part from him will almost definitely ensure it is a Nissan part.

 

It's not a TB.

Pre cats maybe.

 

Again?

 

thanks everybody...The issue is stil there as chet...For nellege question I drive as everyboy does,though I don't push too hard on the peddle to avoid more headache with it,but driving from a dead stop beside a 96 Malibu or Camry and shifting around 2500-3000k rpm and get well smocked from those 2 isn't funny at all when you drive a 3.5L engine....It is too much embarrassment...

What happens is that the car in idle if fine , shifting into 1st , starting rolling , RPM gauge is climbing steady and normal all the way but the speed gain is nothing but crap , well not toooo crapy but no where near an agile active car like the 5.5 gen ... Sometimes I have to disconnect battery and it is lil better for sometime (half a day) then crap happens again...Too frustrating.

 

Oh shyt. I didn't see that. I think a dyno is on order.

I agree, IAVL may or may not help.

What reflash was this?

 

The 3.5 TB is drive by wire. It will go into limp mode if there is a problem detected. The TB has two potentiometers (TPS) one goes up in resistance and one goes down in resistance as the throttle opens (for double checking) and one throttle motor. If anything doesn't seem right the ECU should throw a code and limp home is severe, the car won't get up to any road speed. I had it happen to me one time, not cool. Anyways, a TB should be obvious....

 

I know this sounds elementary, but clutch? If the revs go up and the speed doesn't...

 

new clutch and s cylinder

 

I'd love to see a short video of your cluster while you're experiencing the problem. Sound would be nice, too, if possible. What do you think? Wanna take it for a quick spin around the block? Show us some WOT at least once.

 

Yea, more info required. How many miles, does it use oil/puff smoke? Is it a dog out of the hole with power spurts, or just sluggish all the way?
Had the timing checked? Any issues with knock sensor? Lots of variables @ this point.

 

If I'm not mistaken some bad or near-bad MAFs don't light the CEL...Which I assume more complicated elec. parts than TBs.

 

This thread title should be changed, it's totally not the TB. It's been covered in here by many.

If you already had the MAF changed & ECU reflash because of it, it may be something else. A video would suffice here.

 

long shot here, but a common maxima problem: check your rear brakes to make sure they are not seized. Mine seized on my car and it really does slow the car down a bit.

 

I will check for that..Thanx.