2001 SE, about 126K, P0430 codes just came on last week during a 2hr drive from airport. Car will need to pass emissions in NC and CT.

Not sure why I got 2 codes, or if that should tell me anything in particular. About 6-8months ago had the rotten egg smell after hard acceleration/highway driving, but haven't had the smell in about 2months.

I've read through a bunch of threads, but haven't really been able to draw any definitive conclusions other than it could be 02 sensors or cat. conv. I'm assuming only way to find out is to either bring it to dealer for diagnostics (which I dont trust them anyways) or start by replacing each sensor, then cat. conv. (which I've seen a few people talk about this costing $800-$1000)

Considering KBB value of this car is barely above $4000, this looks like its turning into a major repair. Advice???

 

Search for spark plug antifoulers. It is a trick to move the secondary o2 sensors our of the main exhaust stream, underwrite tricking the ecu into thinking that the precats are burning off enough gases to be below the inefficiency threshold.

 

Woops, should say therefore, not underwrite.

 

Non-foulers, O2 sims or replace the cats.

 

Non-foulers seems like the quickest/cheapest/easiest fix...what's the downside?

Sounds like a simple job...but is there any drilling, cutting or other modifications that need to be done? Excuse the ignorance, but are the non-foulers a one size fits all type of deal, or do I need to be looking for something specific?

Also, I'm assuming its a single sensor directly behind the cat that needs it?

 

non foulers from advance auto comes in packs of 2 for about 5 bucks.

You want the 18 mm one.

You will need to drill a 1/2 inch hole through it so that the o2 sensors can fit.

You will put one on each downstream o2 sensor (two in total). Nothing will need to be done to your car (cutting, drilling etc).

Downside is you're kind of ignoring that you have bad cats. Other than that, the car will drive normal and your CEL should go away for that code (and a p0420 if you eventually get one).

 

thanks, thats exactly the info I was looking for.

Referring to the pic below, I'm assuming I would have to do this for the sensors labelled Red and White? And based on the bank 2 code, the cat conv that likely went bad is B2 pre-cat?


On another note, anyone have estimated labor for replacing the cat(s)?

 

yes that's right. p0430 is for the bank 2 precat which is the front one found between engine and radiator.

You're also right about the red and white o2 sensors I believe since they are the rear or downstream sensors.

You don't really have to do it for the bank 1 since you don't have any codes for it. That's completely up to you.

 

The other one will go soon enough. Just do the both. Also it is better if you can get the pre-fabbed stainless steel O2 extenders from ebay. They will be expensive but worth it.

 

Looks like these are going to be a pain in the @$$ to get to underneath the car.

These ones here on Ebay are actually pretty cheap ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oxygen-senso...item3a6b207a96 ) Says they are 35mm long, anyone know if that is going to create clearance problems?

 

you need a precat. sensors wont do. sorry

 

...and this is perfect example of the source of my confusion

 

Yes, the clearance is going to be tight. I was apprehensive but my mechanic managed to put it in. I just slipped him a twenty and had him do them while the car was on the lift for an oil change.

The real fix is the precats and the sensor won't do which is absolutely correct. However, what we are telling you is that extensions work or rather fool the computer in to thinking that your precats are good. There is no reason for confusion.

- Vikas

 

There are two ways to fix this. One is the cheap alternative, while the other is expencive.

You can either replace the cat, which will run about 180-250 bucks for the cat alone, or use the spacer like other members have suggested which is far cheaper.

Both of the things i listed above will kill the SES light and allow you to pass emissions.

 

1) If you want to mask the issue and get rid of the Check Engine Light only just so you can pass emissions:
A. Get Non-Foulers (Cheapest option overall) ~$5 for parts
B. Get O2 Simulator ~$50 for parts

2) If you want to fix the issue and get rid of the Check Engine Light so you can pass emissions:
A. Gut the cats (Cheapest to actually 'fix' the issue.) ~Free other than labor (lots of labor) and cost of either 1A or 1B. Also will get performance.
B. Get a replacement catalytic converter (aftermarket cheaper than OEM) ~ranges from about $150 to $800 new (higher range being OEM).
C. Get Headers, and not shorty headers. OBX or Cattman or Hotshot ~Ranges from $300 to about $900 new after depending on option chosen between 1A and 1B BEFORE labor. Also will get performance.

If you go with options 2A or 2C, you will also need to do 1A or 1B to get rid of the Check Engine Light.

 

I can sell you a bank 2 pre-cat used for only 1k miles before the whole exhaust was changed. Not sure if that is your problem though... 120$ shipped from NJ... let me know. wgordils@yahoo.com