Going to try to give as much information as I can. I put a whole in my timing cover by not bolting the ring on back of crank pulley tight enough and they backed out causing damage to the timing case. I had a person helping me hold the fly wheel to undo bolt and he accidently bent timing ring. So when i was replacing the afformentioned parts I seperated the motor and trans and replaced the flywheel/timing ring also. New waterpump put on and tensioner and guide while i was at it. I put new exhaust on also just for fun. To get the rear header on I did have to remove the UIM. So while that was off might as well change valve cover gaskets as well. So I put it all back together and it is running like crap. sounds like it is missing on a cylinder and shaking very badly. It is worse in reverse than drive but not good at idle either. I unpluged the ignition coils one at a time to see if there was any change in idle. number two and three cylinders which is passenger side front and back middle cylinders no change. I swapped ignition coils with two and four but no change on four. So then i thought it might be injectors bad from sitting. I took a few months to do all the work. The injector you can hear clicking using the screwdriver to ear trick. I did not try swapping the rear ignition coil yet but I have a feeling it will not change anything. I also unplugged my MAF and the car died immediately. I also have done the iacv, throttle body, egr tube cleaning. There is no CEL or hidden codes using my obdII reader. Any trouble shooting suggestions? Thank you for all of your help i would not have been able to do any of this without the org.

 

Are you sure the timing rings are on correctly without any damage?
It's possible your timing chain has skipped a tooth.

 

yes, i am sure. besides the timing ring if it is messed up causes codes. I know because that is why I replaced it. Can the problem i am having be because the injectors are clogged even if they are cycling?

 

Injector don't just clog and they aren't really an issue with our engines.
Check the engine timing, you may have jumped a tooth.

 

Misfires suck to diagnose because looking at the service manual it could be quite a few things or a combination. I had a bad coil in cylinder 3(weird alot have problems with cylinder 3) replaced it and it stopped the noticable misfire at idle but it will still kick/jolt every once in a while. My clip for cylinder 3 was frayed and I replaced it. Im in the same boat as you. Check your wiring. People kind of dismiss it but removing the UIM and moving the harness out of the way puts a ton of stress on old wires. It happened to me and Ive only taken it off 3 or 4 times

 

Do a dry and wet compression test to check if you have bent valves or bad pistons rings.

 

what ring on the back of the crank pulley? Picture please! there's a seal there but a ring??????

 

ok I will check the wiring and do the compression check just to rule it out. I was really hoping someone would agree it was an injector but i really dont want to just throw parts at my car and hope something fixes it. seems like it would be something i had messed with. Do parts go bad just sitting there?

 

http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/...h/5cf5e71f.jpg
I hope this helps you understand the ring is attached to pulley not motor.

 

Your timing has jumped one tooth. Had the same problem with mine back during the summer. Same cylinders not getting spark.

 

What is the easiest way to fix the timing? Do I need to remove the whole timing cover again?

 

after doing a proper search and Pmohr is the man with the answers. Jncoracer thank youfor sharing your previous experience. It is what made me really think thats whats wrong with mine. Searching confirmed my suspicions that it had to be something I touched. I am going to be redoing my timing the correct way and pulling the timing chain cover again. No big deal I bet I can get it done in half the time this time. Practice helps. I will post again to state wether that fixes my problem.

 

Yeah once youve had the cover off before its 'easy' to do again.

Back during the summer I got a motor to replace my blown one with. Got it in and had no spark on cylinders 2 and 3. Turns out the water pump had been changed on it previously, timing was off, and thats the reason they had scrapped the car.

I even went through the trouble of running new wires from the ECU to each coil pack and still had no spark.

After searching on here and watching a couple youtube videos I was able to find the problem and rest the timing. Runs perfect now.

Also, dont worry about messing up your engine with it running like that. Its a non-interference motor. It'll sound and run like crap but it wont ruin any internal parts.

 

My car is fixed. JNCORacer thank you very much for sharing your experience with me. My car is running awesome. No codes. I will be posting some new pictures of my motor soon. I went ahead and painted the new timing cover because it was of a really oxidized junk yard motor. BTW for all the people redoing your timing make sure to pull the fuse for the fuel pump and put some oil pressure in your new timing chain tensioner before you start it otherwise you may have same problem as me.

 

Awesome, man. Glad to hear it all worked out and you got her running again.

 

When I did mine, I rotated it by hand a few revolutions before starting it up to avoid this. Faintly, I am starting to hear back the noise with the new tensioner/guide. I am going to see if I can go to a custom spring store and make a higher tension spring for the piston.