The problem:

Clutch hydraulic system loves to get air in it, but hates to give it up. The traditional method of pumping the pedal and bleeding from the slave cylinder doesn't work, because the hydraulic line has twists and turns, and the air bubbles really want to go upwards, not down toward the slave cylinder. Many peeps have spent hours bleeding the traditional way, and still couldn't get all the air out.

The solution:

Backbleed. One person, $10 bucks worth of tools plus some fluid. Here's how:

1. Obtain 2, 60 mL catheter syringes from a medical supply store. Google "home health" or "medical supply" and your city or town. Anyplace that sells wheel chairs and such should have these. Or ask your local pharmacist. Mine cost $2.40 each. In and out for under $5.
Be sure to get the catheter syringes - they have the correct tip to connect to the other thing you need: about 4 feet of vinyl hose; correct diameter for bleed screws. You also need a litre (quart) of clean brake fluid. Dot 3 is fine.

2. Remove whatever stuff you need to, to get access to the slave cylinder. In my case, it's supercharger airpipes.

3. Remove the bottom bleed screw from slave cylinder with 10mm wrench or socket. Clean it thoroughly. Put a little bit of dielectric tune-up grease or thread sealer on the threads, and put the bleed screw back in, snugly enough that it won't leak.

4. Remove the top bleed screw with a 12mm wrench. It's located beside the driver side shock tower. It's that little piece of hydraulic tubing with a metal block at the end, and no apparent purpose. Again, clean and grease it, and put it back. A little grease or thread sealant in the hydraulic system ain't the end of the world, but should be avoided.

5. Cut about 2 1/2 feet of the hose, and attach it to one syringe. Cut about 6 inches of hose, and attach it to the other syringe. The remaining foot is attached to the top bleed screw. Put the other end into a container to catch dirty fluid.

6. Now, we're ready for the fun! Remove the cap from the master cylinder reservoir. Suck out all the dirty fluid from the reservoir using one syringw with the short 6" hose. Dispose. Suck up 60 mL of clean fluid with the syringe with the long hose. Try to evacuate all the air from the syringe and hose by holding the open end upwards, and squirting. Then attach the hose to the bottom bleed screw, and loosen the screw; about 3/4 of a turn from snug.

7. Clutch pedal must be up. Push the fluid from the syringe into the slave cylinder. You should see the fluid level rise in the master cylinder, along with bubbles. If you can't push in any fluid, it means one of three things: 1. The bleed screw tightened itself on you, or 2. The shaft of the master cylinder is too long, or 3. Either the master or slave cylinder is faulty, or both. The adjustment of the master cylinder shaft length is waaay up on the clutch pedal. There's a shaft that turns into a saddle that's attached to the top of the clutch pedal with a clevis and pin. Loosen the 12mm lock nut and turn the shaft into the saddle until you can push fluid into the system, then give it another turn for good measure, and tighten the lock nut.

8. If the fluid rises in the master cylinder, you are good to go. Use the other syringe to suck the dirty fluid from the master cylinder; and dispose of properly. Push the whole 60 ml through. Tighten the bleed screw. Top up fluid to at least the minimum mark.

9. Refill your syringe with clean fluid (it works well to keep the hose in place and just detach the syringe. the hose will stay full of fluid.) Now depress the clutch pedal. Hold it down with a stick or something wedged against the edge of the drivers seat. This will prevent the fluid from going back into the reservoir. It doesn't need to be at the floor - just not at the top. Loosen the top bleed screw (beside the shock tower, remember?). Again, push though the whole syringe of fluid, into the slave cylinder, catching and discarding the fluid that comes from the top bleed point.

10. Tighten both bleed screws. Don't be lazy, use a wrench. Finger tight isn't good enough. I know the bottom bleed screw is hard to hit with a wrench. You have my permission to finger tighten it, remove the hose, then finish tightening with a 10mm socket. No too tight - if you break it, you will be very sad. Make sure fluid is filled to at least the minimum mark. Now pump the clutch pedal several times.

11. Repeat steps 7-10 until: 1. Only clean fluid is coming out and 2. No bubbles come out of either the master cylinder or top bleed valve, and 3. You have a good, stiff pedal feel.

If you really want to be a superstar, here's how you check that you have NO AIR in the system:

Remove the two bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the top of the bell housing. Hold the piston and shaft in place with your fingers while you remove the slave cylinder from its mount - they will want to pop out, and ruin all your good work. Remove the rubber cover over the end of the cylnder and shaft, while keeping the piston from popping out. Put a small socket into the cup of the piston, and put a C-clamp on the end of the socket and the other end of the cylinder, such that the clamp prevents the piston from moving. Do it up tight. For the next part, ONLY USE YOUR HAND!!.

Push the clutch pedal WITH YOUR HAND. NOT YOUR FOOT. With your foot, you can generate enough force to catastrophically shatter the metal C clamp, shoot the piston across the garage, cause mess and injury.

When you push it WITH YOUR HAND, it should feel like a brick wall. If it is spongy or squishy, repeat steps 7-10 again. You can do this with the slave cylinder detached, and the C-clamp in place.

There ya go! $10 bucks, about a hour's work and guaranteed results.

You're welcome.

 

or buy a russell speed bleeder