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Doing all 4 shocks and both axles, any tips? Yes i have read the stickies

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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 10:19 PM
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Doing all 4 shocks and both axles, any tips? Yes i have read the stickies

Just as the title says, I will be doing all 4 shocks this next week and both axles. I have done axles before but not shocks but they don't look too hard. I was just wondering since I will be doing them at the same time do you have any suggestions on which to do first in the front or if it matters? Any tips would be great. And yes i have read the how to on both of these.

Thanks
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by joemax89
Just as the title says, I will be doing all 4 shocks this next week and both axles. I have done axles before but not shocks but they don't look too hard. I was just wondering since I will be doing them at the same time do you have any suggestions on which to do first in the front or if it matters? Any tips would be great. And yes i have read the how to on both of these.

Thanks
i did the bottem bolts first so it didnt move around when trying to take them off...but as far as the back strut goes, the bolt on the bottem has a tab that holds the nut on and in place...make sure you dont round it. so it wouldnt hurt to put a wrench/vise grip on there in the first place...i put an impact on mine and it rounded the hell out of the nut which i thought would have been fine but guess not...didnt use an impact on the other side and was fine without the wrench..but thats my advise
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 04:54 AM
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They are both relatively straight forward. I had to take the support bracket off the engine on the passenger to get the axle out. In he axle do search on axle brands it's seems many owners have had problems with the many of the rebuilt axle at local parts store failing. While you doing the struts you may find many other worn out parts as well. The last 2 years I have spent over 1500 in parts on my f/r suspensions (including axles/wheel bearings).
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by dgoodhue
They are both relatively straight forward. I had to take the support bracket off the engine on the passenger to get the axle out. In he axle do search on axle brands it's seems many owners have had problems with the many of the rebuilt axle at local parts store failing. While you doing the struts you may find many other worn out parts as well. The last 2 years I have spent over 1500 in parts on my f/r suspensions (including axles/wheel bearings).
You are so correct my friend. These rebuilt axles are nothing but grief when they leak out grease the minute they go in. I bought the boot kit from Nissan in an attempt to rebuild myself. Just need to get the time to do it.
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Trini Boom
You are so correct my friend. These rebuilt axles are nothing but grief when they leak out grease the minute they go in. I bought the boot kit from Nissan in an attempt to rebuild myself. Just need to get the time to do it.
ive had no issues witht the autozone ones on even a 3 inch drop for the past year...and they fit just fine...and beside if they ever do fail they come with a lifetime warrenty...i dont trust doing just boots because there might be play in the cv joint that grease isnt going to solve
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 09:38 AM
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I found at o reileys that they sell the reman ones for $60 and they have "new" ones for only $70 with no core charge, probably worth the extra if its a new unit. I had a auto part store one on my last car for 6-7 years without any problem but I imagine this car is harder on them then my 90 integra
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 10:23 AM
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I never had problems with reman CV axles in the past (ie years ago). I was going to just do an autozone axles, but someone gave me heads up. I did a search and was horrified to see all the axles failing in less than a year. Lifetime warranty sucks if your still doing axle labor every year. no thanks, this old car has enough regular maintenance as it is, I do need to add anything else.
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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Shocks are easy did you get stock shocks or aftermarket?
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dgoodhue
I never had problems with reman CV axles in the past (ie years ago). I was going to just do an autozone axles, but someone gave me heads up. I did a search and was horrified to see all the axles failing in less than a year. Lifetime warranty sucks if your still doing axle labor every year. no thanks, this old car has enough regular maintenance as it is, I do need to add anything else.
This is exactly what I have and the amount of going back and forth with the passenger side is out of control. It is currently leaking grease due to slack boot clamps. Damn you duralast remans...
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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I bought the APX ebay ones but from their site directly, it was $2 cheaper. It all seems all straight forward I was just wondering if it would be easier to pull the axles out then do the shocks, less in the way, or maybe taking the shocks out first and it will be easier to get the axles out? Or maybe it doesnt make a difference either way.
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 10:04 PM
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You know, I've had these Raxles axles in my car for quite some time. No clicking or any issues. It may be worth the investment
Old Apr 23, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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I messed up the driver's side axle doing my front struts (carelessness on my part). If it were me, I would remove struts, then do the axles, then put the new struts on. Passenger axle is a little harder because of the intermediate support bracket. I have had excellent luck with axles from vendors - the passenger side has been in since April 2007 (NAPA) and the driver's side since Nov 2009 (Advance) without issues. Good luck.

Last edited by bobflood; Apr 24, 2012 at 02:02 PM.
Old Apr 23, 2012 | 11:11 AM
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Look like I will be doing rear calipers at the same time, my rear passenger side one seized on me today so now I'm waiting for tow truck, I am off this week so looks like I have some fun ahead of me, thanks for the tips
Old Apr 23, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Axles are much easier to change if the shocks/struts are out of the way. Remove the strut assemblies. Install the axles. Then install the new struts.

Make sure you jack up the entire front end. Don't try doing one side at a time.
Old Apr 24, 2012 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Nopike
Axles are much easier to change if the shocks/struts are out of the way. Remove the strut assemblies. Install the axles. Then install the new struts.

Make sure you jack up the entire front end. Don't try doing one side at a time.
Yup, that would.be my advice as well. I replaced all 4 shocks & lowering springs last week and it didnt take longer than 2 hours. Make sure you have all your tools before starting
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