Car wont start after sitting months
#1
Car wont start after sitting months
Ok, so my 98 has been sitting for about 6 months now while I repaired the front end. Everything is reassembled but she wont turn over. I put in a new battery and Im getting lights windows everything... So its not a dead battery. When I connect my battery all my speakers start popping and when I try to start the motor I get a click but nothing else. When the car was in a wreck the EGI relay was busted so I even replaced that thinking maybe it was causing a short. Im thinking that might still be the problem but Im really not sure. Any suggestions or ideas?
#7
Leave starter on the car and run a wire from the solenoid pigtail to battery positive to test the starter and cables. Bench test is not accurate as it does not apply a load or incorporate existing ground. Also use a test light to test start circuit.
#10
I made a video of the problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dZfA5RgQgs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dZfA5RgQgs
#11
I had the same situation and sound that your having then I found out that the main battery fuse was blown. I couldnt tell if it was blown or not but it was. I thought it was my starter but it was not. You must open the fuse box to lossen the main battery fuse. let me know what happens
#15
This.
Load test the starter. Verify its working.
If the starter is working but the car wont start, then u have an issue with the starter signal circuit.
First verify the starter is good.
#16
Our starting circuit is extreeemeeelllyyyy simple, so obviously a relay or some wiring needs to be attended to.
#17
jus messin man...
I cant see the video here at work.
If the start is indeed spinning then the starter ciruit must be examined. Im willing to be its the inhibitor relay.
#18
The ground is basically impossible to be bad.
I agree it is probably the relay. Just swap it with a known good relay and check to see if power is getting to the relay while you are there.
#20
LoL. Its quite common for corrosion to develope between the starter and bellhousing, cuasing a poor connection. especially if the starter has ever been removed.
This doesnt look like a starter/circuit issue, but rather something bigger, affecting the entire electrical system. How is the negative batery cable grounding point under the battery tray? The small positive connections at the battery post clamp?
This doesnt look like a starter/circuit issue, but rather something bigger, affecting the entire electrical system. How is the negative batery cable grounding point under the battery tray? The small positive connections at the battery post clamp?
Last edited by asand1; 04-20-2012 at 10:14 AM.
#21
LoL. Its quite common for corrosion to develope between the starter and bellhousing, cuasing a poor connection. especially if the starter has ever been removed.
This doesnt look like a starter/circuit issue, but rather something bigger, affecting the entire electrical system. How is the negative batery cable grounding point under the battery tray? The small positive connections at the battery post clamp?
This doesnt look like a starter/circuit issue, but rather something bigger, affecting the entire electrical system. How is the negative batery cable grounding point under the battery tray? The small positive connections at the battery post clamp?
I also have never seen a starter work on a bench put not work under load in a vehicle but I suppose it is possible.
OP: Fixing this problem shouldn't be so hard. grab a multimeter and get to work. Just trace the power and find out where it stops.
#22
I'm not going to get into an argument about this. But I have never seen corrosion where the starter meets the bell housing. I have replaced over 20 starters on maximas...
I also have never seen a starter work on a bench put not work under load in a vehicle but I suppose it is possible.
OP: Fixing this problem shouldn't be so hard. grab a multimeter and get to work. Just trace the power and find out where it stops.
I also have never seen a starter work on a bench put not work under load in a vehicle but I suppose it is possible.
OP: Fixing this problem shouldn't be so hard. grab a multimeter and get to work. Just trace the power and find out where it stops.
SEARCH.
There are plenty of reports of starters passing autozone bench test but not working under load. Its well documented.
Also, well documented on the org, is the importance of clean grounds on the max and how so many issues related to starting can be traced to poor grounding.
But im off topic...
OP,
As suggested before,
Load test the starter. If the starter spins, then your starter is fine. If it doesnt spin then the starter is toast.
If you bench test the starter, it may still spin because there is no load on it. The starter may just be "weak" or starting to wear out. The only real test is to test it under load as ASAND1 suggested.
Once u ascertain whether or not the starter is toast, THEN you can move onto testing the starting circuit.
Again, i am willing to bet the inhibitor relay is toast.
#23
SEARCH.
There are plenty of reports of starters passing autozone bench test but not working under load. Its well documented.
Also, well documented on the org, is the importance of clean grounds on the max and how so many issues related to starting can be traced to poor grounding.
But im off topic...
OP,
As suggested before,
Load test the starter. If the starter spins, then your starter is fine. If it doesnt spin then the starter is toast.
If you bench test the starter, it may still spin because there is no load on it. The starter may just be "weak" or starting to wear out. The only real test is to test it under load as ASAND1 suggested.
Once u ascertain whether or not the starter is toast, THEN you can move onto testing the starting circuit.
Again, i am willing to bet the inhibitor relay is toast.
There are plenty of reports of starters passing autozone bench test but not working under load. Its well documented.
Also, well documented on the org, is the importance of clean grounds on the max and how so many issues related to starting can be traced to poor grounding.
But im off topic...
OP,
As suggested before,
Load test the starter. If the starter spins, then your starter is fine. If it doesnt spin then the starter is toast.
If you bench test the starter, it may still spin because there is no load on it. The starter may just be "weak" or starting to wear out. The only real test is to test it under load as ASAND1 suggested.
Once u ascertain whether or not the starter is toast, THEN you can move onto testing the starting circuit.
Again, i am willing to bet the inhibitor relay is toast.
Figuring out why your starter isn't working should be a 10m process.
Last edited by FastnFuriousMax; 04-20-2012 at 12:33 PM.
#25
I'm not going to get into an argument about this. But I have never seen corrosion where the starter meets the bell housing. I have replaced over 20 starters on maximas...
I also have never seen a starter work on a bench put not work under load in a vehicle but I suppose it is possible.
OP: Fixing this problem shouldn't be so hard. grab a multimeter and get to work. Just trace the power and find out where it stops.
I also have never seen a starter work on a bench put not work under load in a vehicle but I suppose it is possible.
OP: Fixing this problem shouldn't be so hard. grab a multimeter and get to work. Just trace the power and find out where it stops.
#28
Shoved a screw driver in to touch pos and neg spots on the starter. Got it spinning but it wouldnt engage the flywheel when I tried to start it. Pulled it apart lubed it up and then it started up. I have a wiring problem with my speakers but Im going to my friend who did the stereo wiring and owned the car before me look at it to see whats going on.
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