I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima SE with 377,000 miles. Having problems with (automatic) transmission shifting erratically; began about 2 weeks ago. Since we have had the car, we have not changed the transmission filter/screen but have now realized we should have. Would changing filter/screen do any good at this point, or are we due a transmission rebuild/replacement? Thanks.

 

And.....I have been told by parts houses to not let a mechanic talk us into rebuild/replacement without changing filter/screen. Don't know how credible that is.

One other point.....the erratic shifting seems to happen most when the car is cold.

 

That's too vague a description. How is it actually shifting compared to how it should be shifting?

 

just do a transmission service and see if it helps, if not, go search for an automatic transmission

 

DBear -

I agree; that was pretty vague. It's like the car hesitates some as it is shifting into a higher gear, especially just starting off in the driveway. I can actually feel it sag a little and then picks back up. (Not a mechanic so it's hard to know if this is actually the transmission "slipping"). After the engine heats up, the "sagging" problem is not as noticeable. It's like I know the car should be picking up speed because I am pushing the accelerator but it's not "catching up" as quickly. Had checked the fluid and it was low when I 1st noticed the problem. But put some in and it seemed to help for a few days, but now fluid is OK and problem is back.

Since we've owned the car (for 320K miles now), it has had a very noticeable knock when it shifts in and out of overdrive (on hills, curves, stop-and-go traffic). I can actually turn the O/D off and the knocking stops instantly. But, the current problem is different.

Thanks for responding.

 

phatboislim -

Thanks for suggestion. That's the way I'm leaning right now.

 

Even if a tranny service doesn't help and it needs a rebuild, 377,000 miles is like a mile stone for any auto tranny.

 

infinimax96 -

Not complaining........thankful for every one of those miles.

 

Filter and fluid change first, chances are the filter is just plugged and not flowing the fluid you need to apply pressure to your clutch packs and bands. You might get lucky.
DO NOT HAVE IT FLUSHED AT THAT MILEAGE, this could make things worse.

 

asand1 - Thanks. Big help, especially the part about not having it flushed.

 

If that doesn't work, replace the solenoids as the recall affected your year for defective ones.

 

Alright. The mechanic is telling me that the transmission filter is not serviceable on this car. Any truth to that?

 

It can be removed to be cleaned or replaced. Cleaning it is sufficient. What ATF are you running? Certain ATFs will cause the transmission to behave differently. For example, I'm running Valvoline MaxLife ATF, which is suppose to be a really good conventional ATF but I've noticed makes the transmission shift lazily, on the A32 AT anyway.

 

Is that screen difficullt to get to? I haven't loosen the tranny oil pan yet but saw that someone did go in it at some point due to the green silicone around the oil pan. It is leaking now and was wondering if I should consider doing anything in there?

 

No. Just drop the pan and you'll see the filter bolted on. Undo the dozen or so bolts and it'll come off. Because it's difficult to access the inside of the filter to clean it through that little square opening may be easier for you to replace it entirely but nothing that a coathanger and some time can't solve.

 

If you have never changed the fluid, do NOT change it now. My recommendation would be to go to a local junk yard and get yourself a lower mile tranny. Down here in miami I got mine for $300. Just make sure when you look at the tranny to take out the converter and make sure the fluid is cherry red/pink.

 

Draining the fluid and refilling a couple times wont hurt, and a wrecking yard tranny isn't necessarily going to be better than his. Change fluid and screen first, then rebuild if necessary.

 

If he flushes it all of it, then puts in new fluid. I guarantee the tranny is going to start slipping very quickly. Unless he does 2 qt's every 1k miles or something like that.

 

You need to get yourself an education. Drain and fill is not the same as flush. Drain and fill will not hurt, power flush might.

 

Flush or fluid exchange is the worst thing that you can do to your tranny. They'll hook up a machine to your tranny and wash the insides with a very aggressive cleaner that WILL harden the seals inside causing the transmission to slip in the near future.

Transmissions should not have that much of contamination (or any if you have a dipstick with a good seal, a good transmission vent hose, and no tranny overheating) BUT ATF does deteriorate (lubrication and detergent properties). Draining and refilling the fluid (which is normally 4-6 qts out of 9-10 qt capacity) will refresh the lubrication and its cleaning function. UNLESS you have a TORN FILTER (caused by a damaged component; common to paper/fibrous filters and very rare to steel screens), remove the tranny, replace OR flush the torque converter, and do a major tranny overhaul (seals and clutches).

 

I have question about the automatic transmission.. I'm driving 1998 Maxima QX EU version with 3.0 V6 and automatic transmission.. engine is known as VQ30DE.. but is there any name of this automatic transimission ?

I'm planning to change the oil and filter in this transmission.. and i don't have a clue what type of filter i should have and is there any gasket needed or maybe some glue ?

I have found set like this, there is written that this is for maxima 3.0 1997.. is this filter and gasket good for my transmission ?

http://photos05.redcart.pl/templates...74737c0802.jpg

Thanks in addition..

 

Replace the fluid, clean the screen and see what it does. Worst case scenario is you have to replace the tranny. But with that mileage even if a fluid change work, it can't last too much longer...but it has made it this long

 

One of the things holding the screen/filter on is a bolt and nut. Problem is the bolt is captive in the trans so when you remove the nut the bolt stays behind. When I did my '99 SE auto, the bolt started spinning loose. I had to get creative and hold pressure against the bolt while removing the nut. Good luck! I put in amsoil sythetic atf and it was about $1-140 just for fluid. Then I also put in a b&m automatic trans cooler which have an internal temp bypass. Enjoy!