MAF sensor fixing
MAF sensor fixing
I couldnt find any post on the forums about this, so im asking now. Where would I buy a new MAF sensor? Where is it located in the engine bay? How would I go about replacing it?
Thanks in advanced!
Thanks in advanced!
chances are slim to fix this damn sensor. from reading threads, if you were using K&N like products then you can give it a shot with isopropanol to remove possible oil. fine spray on the wire like areas and follow with water then let it dry. location is between the air box and the throttle body. ebay MAF is crap. so obvious next step is junk yard or stealership. i am always curious why MAF is so damn expensive.
so obvious next step is junk yard or stealership. i am always curious why MAF is so damn expensive.
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got a quote from Lordco... $768....
Found one http://shop.massairflow.com/Nissan_M...031u00maf4.htm for 79.99
Found one http://shop.massairflow.com/Nissan_M...031u00maf4.htm for 79.99
Look for a "reman" OEM MAF, not an "aftermarket" unit. I got one from Autopartsexpress.com for about $160 after core return. It's been on about 18 months with no problems. Had to chase them a bit to get the core money back. Also replace the "isolator" - the thick rubber piece between the MAF and throttle body - new from Nissan for abt $12. Piece of cake DIY job - 4 bolts, one electrical connector, right on top of engine between air box and throttle body.
Look for a "reman" OEM MAF, not an "aftermarket" unit. I got one from Autopartsexpress.com for about $160 after core return. It's been on about 18 months with no problems. Had to chase them a bit to get the core money back. Also replace the "isolator" - the thick rubber piece between the MAF and throttle body - new from Nissan for abt $12. Piece of cake DIY job - 4 bolts, one electrical connector, right on top of engine between air box and throttle body.
Autozone has reman MAFs.
I used an A1 Cardone remain unit when I had a problem. I also still have my OEM one. I removed the cover and found one of the three terminals had a bad solder joint. I re-soldered it but haven't tested it yet. I'm almost positive that was the problem because the symptoms were indicative of a bad connection. I'll sell you the fixed OEM one for 50 bucks.
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