So awhile ago I did a headgasket job on the rear bank of my VG. Everything went pretty damn smoothly for it being the first time I've ever done major engine work.

Now, after about 8-9 months I've noticed some milky oil under my oil cap. I did a compression test and found the rear bank was all at 150 and the front bank was at 210.

I regretfully reused the old headbolts, and now I believe that they're the culprit. I purchased some new headbolts to put in, but I'm not sure if it'd be better to just put in another headgasket or just swap the old bolts for the new ones.

The leak is so minimal that I'm not even sure it is the headgasket. I don't want to ruin this new set of bolts only to find out that I should have just put another new headgasket in.

I have student teaching coming up and I need a damn car.

Thoughts?

 

Man you're gonna have to do it right thing and replace them with new ones. Been there. Made that mistake. Corrected it.

 

Could be a cracked head! Did you have the head pressure tested, resurfaced, rebuilt during the first head removal?

 

I didn't have the head pressure tested or anything like that. I probably should have had it resurfaced and checked for warpage. I guess I'm paying the price now for my negligence. Should I bite the bullet and put another gasket on or just try my luck with swapping the bolts? Time and money are just extremely tight and I'm really discouraged to be going through this again.

 

Neither pull the head check it for straightness at least.....

 

When it has a bhg the probability that the head is warped is high do to over heating. Having the head work done with replacing the head gasket with new bolts go hand in hand.

 

VG head bolts aren't stretch bolts and are reuseable.....read about standard practice of automotive repair or pay someone to do it correctly!

 

Damn lucky SOB's!!!

 

It's pretty hard to deviate from the FSM.

I dunno, I guess I'm dealing with a warped head or something. Looks like I'll be taking it apart again either way.

Thanks for the input gang.

 

Yeah just get the head work done on both heads this time around. You can never be too sure.

 

+1 the FSM designates a tightening procedure that suggests stretching bolts, and while I don't think it directly states to replace after each removal replacement is a common practice in motor rebuilds.
There's a trick which won't be nearly as accurate as using a true straight edge, but if you happen to have at least a general straight edge and some feeler gauges, you can, at the very least, get an idea of warpage.

 

You deviated from the FSM when you didn't inspect your heads for straightness nor your block mating surfaces! As far as the head bolts torque sequence suggesting that they're stretch bolt...that's BS....these bolts and tightened gradually to add pressure/crush to the head gasket evenly....If they were stretch bolts the FSM would have told you to discard them...and most stretch bolts are installed with a nominal torque followed by some additional degreed angle tightening.... like 60 degrees or 180 degrees

 

www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/em.pdf#page=31
That's word-for-word the method stated in the FSM, Not trying to playing internet-king over here but it's just a good habit to replace head bolts, especially on 15+ year old car.

 

Actually, I did that, which is part of the reason I didn't bother taking it to a machine shop.

 

Then you only did half the work. Now to do the other half.

 

How did you check it? It could be a cracked head as well which is found during pressure testing the head!