I have used this site as a reference so far and now I have hit a point where I cannot find an answer and need some suggestions. My wife has a 96 Maxima 5 spd and in the 5 years I have known her this car has always had issues with starting. 1 key works better than another key, she can get it to crank right away, I have problems getting it to start but can usually get it started, and most any repair shop has to roll start it to get it to crank. When it doesn't start, you can turn the key to start and there is no response from the starter however you can hear the relays in the dash at the fuse panel click inside the car and also a relay under the hood click but no response from the starter. Recently it quit working all together and even my wife can't start it. It will roll start however and run fine. The battery is showing 12+ volts sitting and also when the key is turned to start. Everything else in the car is working, dash lights, radio, interior light. I checked headlights, turn signals, brake lights and they all work normal and the battery doesn't show any signs of dropping voltage.

Battery:Check

I checked the voltage on the starter solenoid and the large wire from the battery has 12 volts constant, the small wire to the solenoid however had 0 volts when starting. I replaced the starter with a used starter with the same results, all you hear when the key is turned to start are the relays under the dash click and the relay under the hook click.

Starter Replaced:Check

I replaced the inhibit clutch interlock relay believing it was bad with the same results. I unhooked and checked the wire to the clutch safety switch with a multimeter and when the key was turned to start it was showing 12 volts. I checked the switch itself on ohms and it was showing a connection being made by the switch when pressed. I connected the wire back to the switch and tried pressing it in with my finger and starting the car with the same results.

Inhibit Clutch Interlock Relay replaced:Check
Clutch Safety Switch:Check

I unhooked the small wire to the starter solenoid and it was showing 12 volts when the key was turned to start. I back checked the plug and it was showing 12 volts until connection was made to the solenoid plug and it immediately went to 0 volts. I believed the 2nd starter may have been bad so I went and purchased a "new" remanufactured starter from the autoparts store with the same results as the previous 2 starters. The small wire shows 12 volts on the multimeter until it plugs to the solenoid where it immediately drops to 0 volts.

Replaced Starter Again:Check

I decided to check all the fuses with a test light and all checked out fine. I thought to simplify things I would use the test light to check the same switches and plugs I previously checked with the multimeter. When I checked the small plug to the solenoid I had no illumination. I checked simultaneously with the multimeter and as with the solenoid connection the multimeter was showing 12 volts until I touched the wire with the test light and it immediately went to 0 volts.

Fuses:Check

I checked the wire to the clutch safety switch again and with the multimeter it was showing 12 volts when the key was turned to start however when I checked it with the test light I had illumination but very dim illumination. Unfortunately with the position of that wire and only having 2 hands I was unable to check it with the multimeter and test light simultaneously to see what the voltage did but obviously it was diminished due to the dimness of the test light.

Loss of Voltage when any load applied:Why???

I am at a loss now and have no idea what could be causing this situation. I searched through many stickies and read so many posts I believe I will need glasses from looking at a computer screen and have not seen where anyone has posted about this specifically. I personally have never been able to check a wire with a multimeter and have voltage on it but when I check it with a test light get nothing. It's like any load what so ever that gets put on it immediately drops the voltage to 0 at the solenoid and if the load is applied closer to the ignition like at the clutch safety switch the voltage drops but not so much that I can't get some response from the test light. Any suggestions because right now I'm dumbfounded.

 

Ground your starter.

 

Is the starter not already grounded by the mounting bolts holding it into the engine block?

Dumb question maybe but if not how would I go about grounding the starter then? Just run a wire from a ground to what on the starter?

 

Also maybe another stupid question here but if the little wire I am checking that is supposed to connect to the solenoid won't illuminate a test light when it is NOT hooked to the starter but yet shows 12 volts on a multimeter until I touch it with the test light causing it to drop to 0 volts would needing to ground the starter be a possible cause of that happening even when it's not hooked to the starter but the main power wire directly from the battery is which maintains 12 volts no matter what?

 

Yes, it's grounded there however...it's old and the contact is not as good as it was when it was factory.

I believe you run a ground from the negative battery terminal to the starter, but again, do NOT quote me on that. It's either that, or the bellhousing to the trans...I don't remember

Our cars get very finicky if there's not a good solid ground plane. I'd check the battery cables as well, make sure they're tight and hold good contact.

 

make sure your ignition switch is in good working order, better yet, just replace it with a new one, it's like $25 for new switch. I've replaced these numerous of times.

Grounding the starter won't hurt either, run a ground cable directly from the starter to the negative battery terminal. Won't hurt to put a ground strap from engine to body.

 

by ignition switch are you referring to the electronic portion I have read about on the left side of the steering column across from where the key goes or are you referring to the actual assembly where the key goes? I will try the grounding wire also as you said it can't really hurt anything adding it.

 

You have high resistance in the circuit, it will carry voltage but no real load. Retest everything again in the same manner, except use the light rather than the meter. I suspect bad contacts in the ignition switch.

 

The ignition switch is the only thing that I didn't check and the reason for it was because I was getting voltage to the other areas I had checked beyond the ignition so I presumed it was working buy your explination does make sense. I guess I will try and find a new ignition switch and give that a try.

 

After replacing a starter or reinstalling a transmission, corrosion often starts at the mating surfaces and a poor ground conection results, I dont believe this is you issue, (see my last post). A jumper cable between the negative post and starter mounting bolt should suffice for testing purposes.

Yes the igniton switch is the electrical portoin on the left side of the column.

 

I would replace your ignition switch and the starter signal fuse under the dash.

 

I know that there was an issue with the aftermarket starters (AutoZone ect...) causing starting problems due to the amount of teeth on the starter oppose to the Nissan starters

 

I would say ignition switch. Seen it happen on many a 4th gen before. I have the same ish problem mine is wonky and I have to torque it more for it to start.

 

When tested with a test light the plug to the Solenoid will not illuminate at all. I can hear the Inhibit Clutch Interlock Relay (which is new) click. Inside the car I can hear a relay click inder the dash and the connector going to the clutch safety switch (when unplugged from the switch) slowly and barely illuminates my test light. I called the closest Nissan dealership because nobody else locally carried just the ignition switch. They said it would be $45 gonna go an pick one up and give that a try hopefully that's where my connection problem is.

 

Starter signal fuse and all others checked ok with a test light, however I replaced it anyway (7.5A Fuse if i looked at it right) and didn't change anything.

 

Replaced the ignition switch and the car started right away. Problem solved and I can finally quit banging my head against the wall. I don't know what I would have done without this site and all the helpful information. I will definately keep this site bookmarked and make regular visits here.

 

Good to hear. Sounds like your pretty knowledgeable if you were able to do the trouble shooting and recognize the light casing the voltage to drop. You should be able to hang around and contribute some common sense and general knowledge.

 

Lots of experienced DIY people get trapped by this fact. You see 12V on your meter and say "Great, the signal is getting here all right" but it's 12V without enough amps to actually do any work. This is where a 12V test light is better than a meter. (Don't ask me how I know!!) Glad the ignition switch fixed it!

 

 

having this same no start issue at times, will turn the key and wont get anything. Im going to buy a new ignition switch and see if that is the problem.

 

Well shoot fire, watch these boys.
Remove enough of your air intake system to gain access to your starter and hit it firmly with a block of wood and a hammer. Don't beat the *iss out of it just strike it a couple of times firmly and see if it will not turn over. I just had the same no crank condition on my '97. If it's the switch they are about a 10 minute job to replace there is a good how-to in the stickies for the switch replacement and the starter replacement if either of those end up being the culprit.

 

yup my starter was my problem, went to get an oil change and she wouldn't start again. when I cranked it up earlier I saw smoke coming from under the hood, it must have burnt out. glad I had a spare starter with me when it did go out lol, I installed the other one and she started right up.