hey fellow maxima owners! i recently bought a pearl white 98 maxima se 5 speed and noticed something odd... On cold startup the engine runs very smooth with no weird noises or anything.. Once it reaches operating temp i can hear a little clanking from the timing chain area. What do you think it can be? Any help would be much appreciated TIA!

 

I had a 94' hardbody with the KA24E engine. Same problem. Cold start you would hear the sound of a can full of pebbles shaking. It lasted about 1.5 seconds. Im 99% sure it was something with the timing chain. Pretty much all of the replies from nissan4x4 said timing chain. Alot of mechanics didnt want to take the job. Might have been the truck. Unfortunaly that truck was totaled about 6k miles after it started so thats all I can tell ya. Dam I miss that thing.

How many miles on your max? I had around 170k on my hardbody.

 

the chain tensioners are a common problem

dude search

 

[QUOTE=dantheman;8663316]I had a 94' hardbody with the KA24E engine. Same problem. Cold start you would hear the sound of a can full of pebbles shaking. It lasted about 1.5 seconds. Im 99% sure it was something with the timing chain. Pretty much all of the replies from nissan4x4 said timing chain. Alot of mechanics didnt want to take the job. Might have been the truck. Unfortunaly that truck was totaled about 6k miles after it started so thats all I can tell ya. Dam I miss that thing.

How many miles on your max? I had around 170k on my hardbody.[/QUOTE|

My max has 165k... Thing i dont understand is that there is no timing chain noise at cold startup... only at operating temp. Lol im leaning towards a new chain tensioner... but i really do hope its not the chain guides

 

[quote=dans97maxi;8663476]It would rattle all the time if it was guides. It would also sound like the engine was going to blow up. The tensioner is hydrolic so when the car is cold and the oil has had a chance to thicken it will work fine. When it heats up and thins out it looses its functionality.

It's common on these engines. Honestly type in "timing chain rattle" in the search bar an you will find a bunch of info.

 

This, replace the tensioner.

 

Bump

 

thanks alot guys.. i will buy a new tensioner and replace it very soon.. its the inspection cover thats on the rear of the timing cover right? apart from the waterpump cover thats closer to the front of the car im guessing.

 

Exact-o-mundo!

 

I'm new to this website and I am required to reply 15 times before I can post. Can someone post my questions please?

I own a 1999 Maxima SE that I bought new in 1999. I have 198k miles on it. Just the other day I heard the rattle coming from the timing chain cover. After reading a lot, I'm pretty sure the timing chain guides are worn out and I am doing the work.

Questions:
1. I have read the chains and gears are never bad. I was planning on replacing the guides and tensioners only. I need some guidance here. I don't want to take valve covers and plenum off if it is not necessary?

2. The book that I am working from calls for supporting engine and removing cross member. Anyone have any idea why the cross member needs to come off?

Thanks in advance.
Semper Fi.

 

Not sure what book you are using but it sounds like you are looking in the wrong section. If you are just doing the tensioner and guides, you only need to remove passenger side mount, lower oil pan, crankshaft pulley, and power steering pulley (or pump). Once this is done, remove the 20 bolts (I believe) which includes two of them in the oil pan once removed.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I'm using a Haynes manual.

On page 2B-7, section 7 is Timing chain and sprockets- removal, inspection and installation.

Step 9 Remove the power steering pump and bracket. You confirmed this needs to happen.

Step 10 Remove the air conditioning compressor. Is this necessary?

Step 13 Support the engine/transaxle securely from above with a hoist or a three-bar engine brace. Is this necessary?

Step 14 Detach the front and rear engine mount through-bolts and remove the crossmember and engine mounts from the vehicle as an assembly. Is this necessary?

I'm following this section because I have not fully decided to just change guides and tensioners. I want to get by with guides and tensioner only. Any advice on whether or not I should change chain and gears is appreciated.

Thanks again.

 

No need to replace chains and gears. All steps after 9 is not necessary. Guides and tensioners is all you need. If your water pump was never replaced, I would advise to replace the o-rings at least while you are there or replace the entire pump.

 

Thank you very much. I appreciate it.

 

To Vmat202:

Does the rattle go away after you drive the car for a few minutes? If yes, you can try replacing just the tensioner. It is much easier vs. replacing the guide.

 

The rattle is present at low rpm even after driving 24 miles (I noticed the rattle in the parking deck at work and had to drive it home). After driving home, at idle, the rattle started again. I popped the hood at work and saw what I thought was a water leak above the belt tensioner pulley. I thought I had a bad water pump until I did some research. There is a youtube video out there that sounds exactly like my rattle. I can't remember where I saw it but that is when I realized it was more than a water pump. I ordered a water pump and a thermostat from Nissan. When I went to pick it up, I talked to a tech. He said it was more than likely the nylon guides. I should have the timing cover off by this weekend and I will have a better idea. Working on this job a few hours hours a night prolongs the job but it keeps my frustration down.

UncleMax98 have you done the entire timing chain change before? Did you see any wear on your chains or gears? I have read the chains and gears are good.

Thanks for the input.

 

No, I only replaced the tensioner. Did not replace the guide. The noise I had was only on the first start in the morning for about 1 minute.

 

so by you just replacing the tensioner did it fix your problem..

 

Rattle noise is gone after replacing the tensioner and adding the metal gasket. It has been over 3 years since. BTW, my car is a 98 with 220K+.

Note: If you still have noise after replacing the tensioner, you can ask the dealer for a "fix" It is a metal gasket between the tensioner and the engine body. Cost about $5. I am the original owner and my car does not have the metal gasket from the factory. The first time I replaced the tensioner, the noise did not go away. After adding the metal gasket, the noise went away.

 

Hopefully the pictures can be viewed. Top HTML link below is a picture of my cam gear in front of the #2 cylinder (radiator side). At the bottom of the picture is a timing chain guide. At the top of the guide is the yellow colored link on the chain that is supposed to be down by the crank gear. By my count the timing chain is off the marks by 16 links. I have verified I'm at TDC on cylinder #1 (see bottom HTML link below). I am the original owner and the timing chain never been changed before. Has anyone ever seen an engine run for 198k miles with the chain on 180 degrees out? I can't imagine that the chain has jump this many links. I plan on taking chain off and installing the new chain on the correct marks.

Anyone have 2 cents about this situation?

Thanks in advance.

http://s439.beta.photobucket.com/use..._0314.jpg.html

http://s439.beta.photobucket.com/use..._0305.jpg.html

 

Cant happen, your not on the mark. Just because your number one is at tdc does not mean its correctly timed. Ive been told it take 48 revs to get on true tdc and have the oe marks align.

 

Don't worry man, If you were to keep spinning the crank around a couple more revolutions then all the marks would eventually line up. Just make sure you are at TDC and install the new chain on the correct marks.