I had the joy of doing my rear valve cover gaskets on my 2k.

Obviously to do that, you have to get the upper intake manifold collector off.

The step by step directions around here for the 4th gen are most helpful.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html

The thing that took me the longest (aside from completely losing one of the coil bolts) was locating and getting to the brackets which hold the back of the collector to the intake manifold.

I finally found the diagram in the fsm. Look at page EM-24. You can find the fsm's from pmohr's profile (thanks man!) which takes you here. http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000/EM.pdf

There are 4 bolts which are difficult to get to. There are two brackets with two bolts each. Basically located just inside the corners of the intake manifold. You need to stick your hand down there and feel for the bolts.

You will notice that behind and below the collector, there are two hoses. You will need to undo the clamp open it up and twist it so that you can shove the hoses way down to get access to the bolts on both brackets.

The bracket on the passenger side has two bolts close together with another two bolts directly below. You want the top two. All of these wouldn't be so damn hard to get to with a ratcheting wrench IF the bolts weren't too close to curved portions of the brackets to fit said wrench in there.

So.... I ended up using a small 1/4 ratchet (10mm) and just felt around to get to them. I used a small piece of pipe to push the hoses down with one hand to get the ratchet onto the bolt. One was stuck so I just put a small pipe over my ratchet to act like a breaker bar and it came off easily.

Same procedure on the drivers' side.

I only put back one bolt on each side since the ones toward the middle on each side are the toughest to get to.

For reference, I picked up the fel pro kits for the intake manifold (which has throttle body, upper and lower intake) and for the valve covers.

Hopefully this helps someone else with a 2k and maybe a 2k1.

 

Any pics?... My upper is still a virgin lol.. did headers without removing it lol

 

I was about to call you crazy, but honestly, removing the uim was easily the worst part of installing headers on a locals AE.

And pics are on page EM-24 like OP said.

 

it was me and another orger... we looked in the bay, looked at each other then was like, lets get under this damn car lmao

 

I have done a 4th gen and a 5th gen and the 5th gen was much easier for me. What is a pain in the *** on the 4th gen is the EGR gasket. As soon as you slide the UIM on the gasket falls. Took me 15mins just to get that thing right. Also spacers make it a pain in the *** to re-RTV and then keep in the right position

 

I will check to see if I have any pics with the collector off. That's the only way you can see the bracket. Otherwise I did not take step by step photos. Just look at the fsm and feel around to find the bolts.

I didn't remove it to install headers. Did it from underneath but you need to have some u-joints and various length extensions.


Yeah, I have done both also. I agree about that EGR gasket. The bolts were harder on the 2k though.

 

A bump to a slightly old thread.

Thanks to Max Gator for the handy description of where those 4 bolts are hidden.

If anyone want some instruction along with pics I'll post a fresh thread.

I'm doing a timing chain replacement and this was only step 1.

-SP

 

Can someone posts pics? I have a 2001 i30 and will be changing out my rear valve gasket soon. Thanks.

 

Try clicking on the link in the first post

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...im-w-pics.html

 

That link is for a 4th gen.

I'm wondering if I can take out the Throttle Body from the UIM so I don't have to remove a lot of hoses. I have to replace my Throttle Body with a new gasket anyway. Is this possible?

 

You should be able to remove the TB completely to access the gasket. There should be 4 bolts. Here's some pics from EM-9 and EM-11 from the FSM for the 2001 I30.

 

it's a similar idea for the 5th gen, take out the airbox, throttle body, unplug everything (hoses, elect. connectors) from the uim, get the 4 bolts in the back (use your hand to feel for them), get the 8 bolts in the front, two bolts at the egr guide tube (near where the throttle body was) and that should be it

fyi you won't have to deal with the hose everyone complains about in the 4th gen writeup once the uim is loose.

if there's anything in particular you need a picture of i might have some from when i did my gaskets, but i doubt i have enough for a full writeup of the process.

 

It's possible to do w/o remove the entire IM.


And he did say in the first post ...

 

Thanks for the explanation. You guys mentioned all I needed to know.

Thanks again. Its much appreciated.

 

One more question.

I'm changing the TB gasket, valve cover gasket, pc ventilation valve and breather hoses to this valve.

Im going to have to change out the idle air control valve since it might be bad.

Anything else I should change out while the UIM is off? Its 130k on it right now.

I've been told to change out the knock sensor. But its an expensive part and I don't want to change it if I don't need to.

Thanks.

 

when you do the iacv do the coolant bypass (don't reattach the coolant line to the iacv, just connect the input to the output below). if your iacv isn't bad already you could probably just save the money and do the bypass and be fine- it should at least spare the ecm if/when the iacv dies.

i asked the question about the knock sensor when i had mine apart last time- the answer i got was it's not worth changing.

 

I think the iacv is bad. There's coolant residue on the input hose. There's also coolant residue in and around the throttle body plate. But I need to get my volt meter to test the iacv before replacing it.

For the ECM, does it really need replacing/fixing even tho its not bad but the iacv went bad? So in other words if replacing the iacv, replace the ecm as well or get the ecm fixed. I've heard mixed opinions on this.

Thanks for your input.

 

Another thing, with the coolant by pass method, the iacv doesn't really need coolant running thru it?

 

if the ecm is good there is no need to replace it. the easiest way to check is to take it out, open it up, and look for damage. pics of what the damage looks like can be found in this thread: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ight=ecu+fried

if you google "youtube maxima p0505" there's a 5-6 part series that details pretty much the whole process (minus the bypass). it will at least show how to get the ecm out if you need help there

also if you are replacing the iacv, use oem. aftermarket ones are supposedly bad or very short lived

my understanding is the coolant is to prevent the iacv motor from freezing and malfunctioning in cold temperatures. members in cold climates here have done the bypass and had no issue whatsoever

 

Thank you.

 

When replacing the IACV. Did you have to do an idle relearn? If so, what are the steps if you have them. Thanks.

 

i didnt, just disconnect the battery overnight and that should take care of it

 

Ok great. Thanks.

 

Another question.

I want to take out the ECM to see if the iacv's chip is burnt.

If I take out the ECM, take a quick look and then connect it again, do I have to reprogram the keys?

Anyone have experience with this?

 

No lol. Go for it

 

Can someone tell me what this part is?

 

Doing the UIM and rear valve gasket on a 2000. I **think** I only have one bolt left to pull the UIM off. That bolt is one of the rear brkt bolts (4 total to take out) and I cannot get any wrench to fit...always interference some how. The other 3 brkt bolts were a HUGE pain but I got them.

What wrench setup am I supposed to use????

The bolt is on the psgr side brkt and it's location is on the driver side of that brkt.

What wrench makes these bolts more doable????

I am SOOO frustrated.

Thanks!

 

Finally got it off. Tried offset wrench to no avail. My 1/4" ratchet interfered as well. What REALLY helped was removing the 2 lwr 10mm bolts which gave slop on the pwr strg brkt hose asm. This gave me room to fit ratchet on the upr bolt.

Unless you have just the right fitting tool, it is WAY easier to remove the lwr bolts and then do the uprs. Then reinstall the lwrs. This would have save me TONS of frustration and time.

Hope this helps somebody.

This is a 5th gen 2000model.

 

I also noticed in the FSM that the collector/UIM torque specs seem to be in error. I did quick mental ratio/conversions and compared them to the valve gasket cover specs they listed. The FSM states ft*lb on the UIM. That is incorrect based on the Nm and kgm numbers provided and those provided on the vc gasket.

Be careful on this issue. I just tightened them down a little. I have no in*lb torque wrench.

 

Why is the 8-11 ft lbs for the uim incorrect compared to the 61-78 in lbs (5-6.5 ft lbs) for the vc?

 

To find inch pounds just multiply torque # by 12 and there you have it.

 

Sorry, guys, I was wrong.

I double checked w/ a calculator. The FSM is correct. I was tired and truly thought that their conversion was wrong and would overtighten the UIM.

 

It didn't mention it but I saw PTFE on half of the UIM bracket bolts. Notice the bolt holes go right through. ANywhere they go through gets PTFE

 

Ah after reinstalling these bracket bolts I realized that I ya don't need PTFE! Taking them out I saw a white dried up powder on these bolts.

 

I have a 2000 max and my uim where it connects to the throttle body on the back side it's starting to melt the uim its self I know this is a problem I looked into buying a new one but why would it even melt in the first place