I've read through the sale thread twice. I cannot find where anyone has discussed their install of the qlink. The install itself is child's play.

My question pertains to the amount people have measured their rear beam to be off (measurement of each side). I have measured both side three seperate times. Consistently I am getting that my rear is shifted to the passenger side only 2mm. So, in order to line it up, I need to adjust the qlink to absorb 1mm to the drivers side. This is with an Eibach drop.

I do have slight rubbing when weighted down and run my 350z rims with wide tires. It just seems there should be more needed than just 1mm. Anyone else install the qlink and have to make similar minor adjustment? Thanks!

 

It all depends on how low you are, I adjusted mine too much to the left, but I'm not the lowest I want to be, after I lower the rear again about .25" it should even out, and I have the QT link maxed out(threaded all the way in). Never took any measurements though.

 

dont forget to check the tab where the quarter panel meets the bumper in the wheel well. those tend to be the biggest culprit when getting rubbing in normal set ups

post your impressions.... i still don't see the need for this mod .. since we can adjust the beam manually.... isnt that all the qlink does?

 

I'm not sure what you mean by no need. If you're saying that people can run a more narrow tire and also can cut the metal lip or roll their fender.......then yes, those are other options. But none of those actually re-align the rear beam. They only address the rubbing. There is a procedure noted in the 4th gen forums regarding how to recenter the rear beam, but that seems chinsy. You are basically moving your bolts as far to one side you can in the holes they go through in order to achieve centering the beam. This does not address the suspension dynamics when a Maxima is lowered which causes the problem....the rear link.

The rear link is a set length. When a Max is lowered, the position geometrically is altered perminently due to the perminent change in height. This pushes the beam and holds it toward the passenger side. Only through shortening of the link could you correct this.

The sale thread does a better job explaining than I just did.

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...-a33-sale.html

 

With the warm weather this weekend and my wife being off to watch the kids, I was able to take the hour needed to do this job. Images to follow. Very simple and straight forward. I have not yet re-measured the rear beam offset to verify the left side protrusion was resolved. I'm also not running my 350z rims, which would be the ultimate determinater. So, I'll post measurements tomorrow.

My only complaint is that the QT link is narrower at its wide end than the oem link. See images below. Although I'm certain this makes no difference as the link is not going to move around. Just an observation and personal preference, would feel as though it fit better if wider.

 

I also thought about getting this but I really didnt think it would do much especially because I am far from slammed

 

Even I'm only running an Eibach drop. What, about 1.5"? Naturally if running stock rims/offset, then there will be no rubbing. If I were not running my 350 rims during the summer, I would not had considered or ever bought the QT Link. Being 2mm off was otherwise of no concern.

 

When I first lowered my Max with H&R's, I did notice the offset, but mine wasn't 2mm, it was more than 1/4"! When my brother lowered his, he started rubbing on the passenger side, me as well. Soooo... we both got QT links. I accidentally went way too far the first time, so I had to get back in there and get it right. Now I'm riding on Teins in the rear and Progress in the front. Running '09 G37 wheels which are 8" wide with 245/45/18's. The rubbing is mostly gone unless I hit a dip hard or too fast, but that's because even though I did trim the inner bumper tab, I haven't relocated the screw to trim it more.

I forgot to mention that my driveway is at an incline, and not even across, so it makes it pretty difficult to get it right the first time. I had to hold the body up on jackstands and raise the axle up with jacks to get my axle even and get it right. Thn it was a little elbow grease to get the pin to line up with the QT link's eye. No major pain though.

 

You can recenter the rear beam on the 5th gens and it was detailed in a few threads but this was the best one http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...rear-beam.html

,and asfaik that is all I think the q link does, maybe it just adjusts it further to extreme extents and alot easier then the manual way.

Don't get me wrong I love any new products, mods, designs for our cars, I was just trying to figure out what is so good about this one.

 

heres another link

http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...rear-beam.html

 

good,I would not had considered or ever bought the QT Link. Being 2mm off was otherwise of no concern.

 

Lots of great info in both links! Thank you! Those did a bit better at explaining the process than other threads I read on the topic. Problem I consistently run into with that process is that it is for stock ride height. Another great example of this issue is regarding headlight re-aiming, which is wrong for lowered cars on Shiftice's website, IMHO. But I digress.

When lowered, the geometry changes. This 1. Binds the rear bushings and 2. Due to the binding AND set length of the stock link, shifts the rear beam to the right/passenger side. Therefore, this adjustment (as I've read) will only correct 0.5mm if that. The other issue I have is that I noted absolutely NO ability to move the bolts for further adjustment on my car. My holes where tight (insert tasteless joke here). So, I absolutely do not feel the FSM method for centering would had been effective for me. I do intend to re-measure and also inspect as to whether I continue to have any binding.

I read a suggestion that the best way to align the rear beam when dropped is to lengthen the larger link (sorry, don't know the terms). If I understand the geometry, I see this as accurate, especially on bigger drops. However, in absence of that as an option, the QT link does exactly what it says, allows specific adjustment to the car in order to center the rear beam and can do so beyond 0.5mm.

Although I've not re-measured yet, been raining, I'd like to say I can tell a significant difference. I'd like to say that the rear feels more connected and stable, I'd like to say it feels more linear over bumps. I'd like to, but I just can't. My mind says all these things are true, but I'm certain it's just placebo. I'm fairly certain my bushings are still binding, so once I correct that, we will see.

 

I've had to re-adjust the link again. My measurements after the install showed the passenger side to be even further out. So this time I made sure the install occurred with the cars weight on the rear axle. I get the angles the points travel, but having a hard time visualizing each point of movement combined and effect length of QT Link has on these principles. Here is my adolescent attempt, that has failed. Will re-work. These are my son's Legos by the way! LOL!!

 

Huh? You can't align the beam manually if you are lowered unless you modify your current link. I guess you don't see the dynamics of angles when there is a change in height.

Just think about it...you have a static arm (the link) which does not change in length. If you push up on the beam (lowering the car) the static arm will shift the beam to the side. The only real way to align this is shorten the link in our case since the link is fixed at points from left to right. You can use your hands to show the same affect (one hand as the beam and the other hand as the link that is fixed to the beam). What happens when you move your hand up against the other one? It shifts to the side.

 

Bottom line (IMHO), if the slight offset and rubbing doesn't bother you, don't get the QT link, but those of us that are OCD about our vehicles and have installed it, have actually noticed the difference. I still get a little rubbing every now and then, but I have wider wheels. I got the QT link because I had tried re-centering the beam twice. That took care of the funky clunk that I was getting every time I went over a speed bump, but it didn't fix the axle-offset enough.

 

Agreed. I do tend to be OCD and I did have consistent rubbing due to my wide tires and 350 rims. Rather keep the rims and size tire, just looks too good IMO.

AFter the QT link install I had some odd noises. After the re-adjustment and adding some assembly lube to the QT Link, all noises resolved.

Still reveiwing (conceptualizing) the rear beam travel dynamics. I'm convinced the QT Link works through putting added pressure against the main link bushing where it attaches to the beam. This is the only thing that makes since given its accepted ability to shift/adjust the rear beam. At my drop, I have no concern over a couple MM shift affecting that bushing. I'd think on cars much lower, there's even more. Just something to be mindful of. Not heard of any issues yet with that bushing failing after QT install, but I'd personally be getting under there (car lifted on a rack so vehicle weight on suspension) and making a visual inspection of that bushing and presence or absence of lateral pressure on it.

 

Yeah, I know what you mean. At first, I wanted to figure out the dynamics too. Then, when I realized I turned the stupid link the wrobg way, I just said screw it, and just adjusted it the other way until I got it where I wanted it. It took me like 3 tries! I'm lookin at some G37 staggered 19's right now, but I'm not even thinkin of gettin em till I get my fenders rolled and I relocate the bumper-tab screw.