Happened for about 2 minutes then it stopped, check engine light was always on as the cat needs to be replaced.

What causes this? Please what parts to buy? I need to get my car running good.

 

Pull the codes....
Not gonna be much help without them.

 

Car can't drive, last time I checked the cat was bad but it could drive, engine light didn't flash....

How do I pull the codes? I need to work on my car myself.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/infiniti-i3...king-i30t.html

Don't know if it applies to my car but a engine misfire.

So I need to get the coilpacks replaced?

I have 198k on a 2002

 

You need a code reader. The check engine light flashes when there is a serious problem. The code will still be stored in the computer. If you can't get someplace to have the codes read for you, then you will need to buy a code reader. They are fairly cheap anymore.

 

Can the engine blow from misfiring?

I'm scared to drive the car then.

What's a good one to buy?

 

The cheapest route (if you have a smart phone and some time) would be to order a BT OBD2 adapter and download one of the OBD2 programs available for your smart phone. Lacking that, just go to the auto parts store and buy the cheapest OBD2 reader they have. You just need the codes. And no, misfiring will not blow an engine. But if that light is flashing you have a serious problem. I'm not going to tell you it's safe to drive the car. You may be fine or you may make the problem worse.

 

I'm going to try to get the code at Autozone, I have triple AAA if the car doesn't start or stall.

 

p0133
p0572
p0430
p0305 cylinder misfire 5

 

P0133 - Heated Oxygen Sensor I Circuit Slow Response (Bank1)
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0305 cylinder no. 5 misfire detected
P0572....Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low****

The first three I found on maxima.org. The last one I found it as a generic code for many brands. So it may or may not be correct. Hope it helps.

 

about how much will this run me? I need all new sensors, cat and a coil?

 

up to the top

 

The misfire code caused the SES light to blink, I'm sure you were going over 50mph when this happened. Although it is safe to baby the car to a shop to get fixed but if your worried then get it towed. Get a coil for cyl 5 and you won't misfire then fix the rest of the issues.

 

This is what you get for ignoring a SES light and never checking it. Get a coil or cylinder 5. Probably gu na need to do rvc if you havent and certainly the gasket.

Then fix the rest of your issues. The oxygen senors may fix your cat code too...maybe. Good luck!

 

Make sure you use an OEM coil for cylinder 5. Aftermarket coils are notoriously problematic.
You shouldn't need all new O2 sensors. Replace the Bank 1 Primary O2 sensor (Back side against the firewall, before the pre-cat). The other O2 code could either be the Bank 2 pre-cat (front side, closest to radiator), or Bank 2 secondary O2 sensor (front side, AFTER pre-cat). The sensor is the cheaper of the two, I'd replace that one first. If that doesn't fix your code then the problem is with the pre-cat. FIX YOUR MISFIRE FIRST!! A poorly running engine can ruin a new catalytic converter.

The last code on the list is likely P1572 not P0572. This is really the least of your worries at this point. But here goes anyway...there are two switches on your brake pedal. One is the brake light switch the other is the ASCD brake switch. One of them is likely loose/disconnected/improperly adjusted. This will prevent your cruise control from functioning properly. (Check your brake lights, if they work correctly then the problem is likely the ASCD Switch)

 

I talked to a guy at rockauto but he doesn't quite understand what I'm saying, do I need BOTH upstream sensors or 1 upstream and 1 downstream? I'd like to order today and get it by friday so it can be fixed over the weekend. I'm gonna get the OEM coil at Nissan.

 

Not much to add at this point, except that the cheapest code pulling option isnt a phone based app, or driving to autozone, its using the search button on Maxima.org and following the FREE pedal based procedure which is outrageously simple

Put key in and turn on, wait 3 seconds. Quickly press and release pedal 5 times, then wait 7 seconds. Press pedal down completely for 10 seconds, at the end the SES will start flashing the codes. And you dont even need to leave the driveway to do it

 

heated oxygen sensors are only the downstream sensors, upstream sensors are not heated. You need the bank 1 heated O2 sensor

 

I know I need more than 1, I also need one that goes before the cat.

Where do you buy OEM parts from online? I don't want to go to Nissan to expensive.

 

if these are your codes

then you only need one O2 sensor, and its the secondary O2 (AKA the heated O2) on bank 1. Do you have other codes? If not, why do you think you need two O2 sensors?

 

My mechanic said I should change all of them but it's how they're labeled that I don't understand. When I go to rockauto I see this and I don't see anything labeled BANK 1. I am at work and my car is at home, I'll get the vin number and go to nissanpartszone for a diagram.

APWI Part # AP379
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Upstream Front
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Upstream Rear

Part Image
$25.79
APWI Part # AP4245 One of our most popular parts
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Front

Part Image
$32.79
APWI Part # AP4339
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Rear

Part Image
$32.79
DENSO Part # 2344241 OE Style One of our most popular parts
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Front

Part Image
$50.79
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1564168
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] ,Post Catalytic Converter (Downstream); Rear

Part Image
Choose:
$52.99
DENSO Part # 2344270 OE Style
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Rear

Part Image
$53.99
BOSCH Part # 15224 OE Type - Exact Fit; Heated; Wires: 4; Length (in): 31.5 One of our most popular parts
[Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] [Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide.] Downstream Front

 

bank 1 is the rear (firewall side) and bank 2 is the front

 

that clears up alot, rockauto customer service couldn't answer that.

I'm gonna order that, for OEM parts is NISSANPARTSZONE respectable?

 

This is the bank 1 downstream aka heated front sensor.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=502010&cc=1431961

 

Bank 1 is rear but yes. That's the downstream sensor.

 

rebelhell thanks a million..

I'm ordering that one.

 

I ordered all 3 of my oxygen sensors from rockauto and they were all OEM fit...just have to read the descriptions and shiit

 

Where's the best place to get the coil? From the dealer? Can I get it online and save money?

 

you could always SIM the downstream ones......

 

You just have to look around. Avoid ebay like the plague. Lots of counterfeit parts.

I get most of my OEM parts from www.courtesyparts.com.

 

He could but he's not sure if he has a bad pre-cat. Easiest way to tell would be to replace the O2 and see if the code goes away. If it were me, I'd gut those pre-cats and be done with it.

 

I want to gut the cat but won't that increase noise?

I ordered that part, looking for the ignition coil now.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/22433-c...957_1988_1989&

I think that's it. All of them are the same I think.

 

Yes, they are all the same.

 

Might be slightly louder, but I doubt it would be too noticeable. Would certainly be a cheaper option than replacement if it turns out it is bad.

 

I'll ask my mechanic about gutting it but I doubt he can do it, he'll probably send me somewhere.

I don't race so it should be better for me.

 

I doubt you're mechanic or any mechanic that isn't shady will do it. It's against EPA regulations. It's not too hard to do yourself though. Hardest part is getting those rusted bolts apart. Remember though...if you do this it will not fix your check engine light. You will have to get O2 sensor simulators for your secondary O2's or your computer will think there is a problem with your cats.

 

Okay last question, where do you buy oem from online?

What websites?

 

There are several but I get my parts from courtesyparts.com. They deal exclusively in Nissan OEM parts.

 

I asked this already...smh.. I'm tired.. I'm ordering hope it's here by the weekend.