SUPER MPG. GOT 28-30 mpg now!
SUPER MPG. GOT 28-30 mpg now!
Ok so let me share some secrets.
1.) Max out your tire pressure to get all the tread on the road. Using 40 psi on 17 stockers. Max is like 65 psi on my tires so it gives me more then enough wiggle room. I gotta watch pot holes but it handles better.
2.) Alignment. This hands down helped the most. A 3 yr alignment or more especially on lowered cars is a great investment.
3.) Let off gas going downhills or a slope.
4.) Don't use brakes at all costs. I watch ahead for red lights or if I see traffic ahead I will cruise going like 20 mph and keep a gap till red turns green or traffic moves.
5.) I got a 6 mpg gain alone from riding behind tall trucks, vans, suvs, and tractor trailers. To be safe I usually give a car length to a length and a half. This is usually where they can see you in there rear view. If you can't see see there mirrors they probably cant see you and your too close.
1.) Max out your tire pressure to get all the tread on the road. Using 40 psi on 17 stockers. Max is like 65 psi on my tires so it gives me more then enough wiggle room. I gotta watch pot holes but it handles better.
2.) Alignment. This hands down helped the most. A 3 yr alignment or more especially on lowered cars is a great investment.
3.) Let off gas going downhills or a slope.
4.) Don't use brakes at all costs. I watch ahead for red lights or if I see traffic ahead I will cruise going like 20 mph and keep a gap till red turns green or traffic moves.
5.) I got a 6 mpg gain alone from riding behind tall trucks, vans, suvs, and tractor trailers. To be safe I usually give a car length to a length and a half. This is usually where they can see you in there rear view. If you can't see see there mirrors they probably cant see you and your too close.
Whatever hater. I guess you like sitting at red lights all day LOL, I am always moving sometimes though I do hit a red but rare. Im usually rolling through a green while saving a chunk of change in gas while suckers are burning gas idling.
So you are using the basic principles of hypermiling. they do end up increasing mileage by a nice amount, but drafting large vehicles is generally frowned upon for safety reasons(I still think 1 car length is not safe enough). when I hypermiled, I saw an increase of 8-10 mpg, but it became a large hassle to always do it, especially in a large city where road rage is rampant.

Have never been able to figure out why people think it necessary to race to a stop light but I see it all the time... yeah, I know, the golden rule of driving is to NEVER EVER LET ANYONE GET IN FRONT OF YOU FOR ANY REASON WHATSOEVER CAUSE YOU'LL DIE ON THE SPOT, and so to avoid dying on the spot you just GOTTA ACCELERATE to a stop light so you can beat everywhere there. LOL, what a bunch of twits!!
) is if your maf is toasted.You should be getting upper 20s hwy very easily. Hell, I got 17 mpg redlining every gear and going 100 mph on the hwy with 50/50 mixed driving.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Aug 31, 2013 at 09:04 AM.
I have to admit that people like you annoy the hell out of me. Maybe because I'm a leadfoot. Maybe it's because I tried doing all that stuff when I was getting like 22mpg on my mr2 and realized that every time I got behind the wheel, hear the growl of my engine behind me, I sought of drift to the fast lane and then suddenly I'm doing like 85 at 65. Now if those 18 wheelers could just keep up I would be doing so much better.
So to add to your tips:
7) Try driving the speed limit or lower (just stay the hell out of my way while doing it)
So to add to your tips:
7) Try driving the speed limit or lower (just stay the hell out of my way while doing it)
What about using cruise control?
Also, I think safe ACD (Assured Clear Distance) is to be at least 3 seconds behind the vehicle in front of you, not that anyone really does that. At that distance, drafting doesn't work. In other words, it isn't safe.
Also, I think safe ACD (Assured Clear Distance) is to be at least 3 seconds behind the vehicle in front of you, not that anyone really does that. At that distance, drafting doesn't work. In other words, it isn't safe.
Over inflated tires wear out quicker than at normal pressures. They are also more likely to have a blowout.
Tailgating might save gas, especially behind a big truck. Should the truck need to stop suddenly, you might end up under the truck.
Save some gas, but pay for it by loosing your car. Or worse. No thanks.
I drive at a constant speed. Generally at the speed limit, sometimes a little more. What ever the prevailing speed of traffic appears to be.
Normal tire pressures, premium gas, and a functioning knock sensor. I get about 30 mpg at 70 mph.
Tailgating might save gas, especially behind a big truck. Should the truck need to stop suddenly, you might end up under the truck.
Save some gas, but pay for it by loosing your car. Or worse. No thanks.
I drive at a constant speed. Generally at the speed limit, sometimes a little more. What ever the prevailing speed of traffic appears to be.
Normal tire pressures, premium gas, and a functioning knock sensor. I get about 30 mpg at 70 mph.
I don't zoom up to stoplights and slam on my brakes, but neither do I let off the gas and idle up to them at 20mph like a blithering idiot. There is a happy medium to be attained. People like you who hold up traffic and cause issues are pretty selfish.
BTW I get 27.5-28.5mpg 60/40 highway/city without annoying people around me, and while running AC even. Glad you take a bunch of crazy and annoying measures to get what I get by just driving normally. Your hypermiling results aren't very good, honestly.
Perhaps your car needs some maintenance work done on it? And have fun wearing out your tires faster too, and possibly ending up in an accident because of your abnormal driving habits. Brilliant.
BTW I get 27.5-28.5mpg 60/40 highway/city without annoying people around me, and while running AC even. Glad you take a bunch of crazy and annoying measures to get what I get by just driving normally. Your hypermiling results aren't very good, honestly.
Perhaps your car needs some maintenance work done on it? And have fun wearing out your tires faster too, and possibly ending up in an accident because of your abnormal driving habits. Brilliant.
40 psi was seen as a safe medium(on tires that allowed pressure to be safely put at that psi) between hypermilers who do 50+psi and those who have it set at 34, etc. Always best to check the tires max psi rating and see if 40 is even possible to do.
These things always make me 
I get 28-29mpg highway, which is good mpg, I don't expect to be much better than stock MPG specs considering my driving style and all my mods, plus I'm 4AT so 5MT and 6MT people should be able to do even better. I used to get less (24-25 mpg on highway), before being tuned and getting my new MAF. I also run 38/36psi front/rear with slight weight reduction (car weights 3284lbs w/ driver), but you have to find a balance for YOUR car and YOUR tires because every car will be different here, too much/too little PSI will definitely hurt your gas mileage in different ways.
If you're serious about saving gas = BEST thing you can do is simply tune up your car to run properly (MAF, O2 sensors, etc) since those things affect your fuel directly. Timing advance and using the best gas possible can/will help also. For me, new MAF and tune did most of it but the timing advance saw another ~2 mpg increase.
Driving style = best thing is driving at constant speeds (smooth as possible) and minimizing shifts/braking. In rush-hour traffic moving at like 10-20mph, I put car in 2nd gear and let it coast in 2nd, no shifting at all and minimal use of brakes, which gets an extra ~2-4 mpg as measured by ScanXL live data (as compared to driving in D mode). When there is no traffic, however, I proceed to drive fast and not care about saving gas. I feel like if you stick to that formula of trying to save gas in traffic, and driving normally when there's no traffic, you can find a good balance, and really it's the traffic situations that allow for the most gas savings to begin with not driving on a wide open road. Most people do the opposite, they floor the gas pedal and the brakes in almost stopped traffic just because they can NOT let a car in front of them, so if you did what you do with the coasting/cruising to a stop in traffic, but drove normally without traffic that would likely be your best bet.
I know you can save maybe $30-50 a month, MAYBE, by driving like an anus. But is it really worth all the trouble and being hated by 90% of all other drivers?
To me, doing this kind of thing is basically the same as using regular gas to try and save money when the difference between 87 and 93 octane is like 10c/gallon and you end up saving like $1-2 on a full tank! In turn compromising engine performance and making it more crappy, these are the people that always make me laugh, go ahead and save that $1. This especially makes me laugh, when someone in a brand new $50k Audi does this **** and thinks they're smart for saving on gas (but in reality not smart at all, since they bought an Audi)
You have a Maxima, not a Honda Civic. If you want better gas mileage, instead of going to the extreme and following a bunch of trucks on the road, you should sell your car and buy a hybrid or a 4-banger, not a V6 powerplant. BTW, not trying to hate just my .2c

I get 28-29mpg highway, which is good mpg, I don't expect to be much better than stock MPG specs considering my driving style and all my mods, plus I'm 4AT so 5MT and 6MT people should be able to do even better. I used to get less (24-25 mpg on highway), before being tuned and getting my new MAF. I also run 38/36psi front/rear with slight weight reduction (car weights 3284lbs w/ driver), but you have to find a balance for YOUR car and YOUR tires because every car will be different here, too much/too little PSI will definitely hurt your gas mileage in different ways.
If you're serious about saving gas = BEST thing you can do is simply tune up your car to run properly (MAF, O2 sensors, etc) since those things affect your fuel directly. Timing advance and using the best gas possible can/will help also. For me, new MAF and tune did most of it but the timing advance saw another ~2 mpg increase.
Driving style = best thing is driving at constant speeds (smooth as possible) and minimizing shifts/braking. In rush-hour traffic moving at like 10-20mph, I put car in 2nd gear and let it coast in 2nd, no shifting at all and minimal use of brakes, which gets an extra ~2-4 mpg as measured by ScanXL live data (as compared to driving in D mode). When there is no traffic, however, I proceed to drive fast and not care about saving gas. I feel like if you stick to that formula of trying to save gas in traffic, and driving normally when there's no traffic, you can find a good balance, and really it's the traffic situations that allow for the most gas savings to begin with not driving on a wide open road. Most people do the opposite, they floor the gas pedal and the brakes in almost stopped traffic just because they can NOT let a car in front of them, so if you did what you do with the coasting/cruising to a stop in traffic, but drove normally without traffic that would likely be your best bet.
I know you can save maybe $30-50 a month, MAYBE, by driving like an anus. But is it really worth all the trouble and being hated by 90% of all other drivers?
To me, doing this kind of thing is basically the same as using regular gas to try and save money when the difference between 87 and 93 octane is like 10c/gallon and you end up saving like $1-2 on a full tank! In turn compromising engine performance and making it more crappy, these are the people that always make me laugh, go ahead and save that $1. This especially makes me laugh, when someone in a brand new $50k Audi does this **** and thinks they're smart for saving on gas (but in reality not smart at all, since they bought an Audi)

You have a Maxima, not a Honda Civic. If you want better gas mileage, instead of going to the extreme and following a bunch of trucks on the road, you should sell your car and buy a hybrid or a 4-banger, not a V6 powerplant. BTW, not trying to hate just my .2c
Driving style = best thing is driving at constant speeds (smooth as possible) and minimizing shifts/braking. In rush-hour traffic moving at like 10-20mph, I put car in 2nd gear and let it coast in 2nd, no shifting at all and minimal use of brakes, which gets an extra ~2-4 mpg as measured by ScanXL live data (as compared to driving in D mode). When there is no traffic, however, I proceed to drive fast and not care about saving gas. I feel like if you stick to that formula of trying to save gas in traffic, and driving normally when there's no traffic, you can find a good balance, and really it's the traffic situations that allow for the most gas savings to begin with not driving on a wide open road. Most people do the opposite, they floor the gas pedal and the brakes in almost stopped traffic just because they can NOT let a car in front of them, so if you did what you do with the coasting/cruising to a stop in traffic, but drove normally without traffic that would likely be your best bet.
Wow are you serious? I dont really drive hard as hell, but im gonna look into replacing my maf, thanks. And to think I was happy with 17mpg haha
These things always make me 
I get 28-29mpg highway, which is good mpg, I don't expect to be much better than stock MPG specs considering my driving style and all my mods, plus I'm 4AT so 5MT and 6MT people should be able to do even better. I used to get less (24-25 mpg on highway), before being tuned and getting my new MAF. I also run 38/36psi front/rear with slight weight reduction (car weights 3284lbs w/ driver), but you have to find a balance for YOUR car and YOUR tires because every car will be different here, too much/too little PSI will definitely hurt your gas mileage in different ways.
If you're serious about saving gas = BEST thing you can do is simply tune up your car to run properly (MAF, O2 sensors, etc) since those things affect your fuel directly. Timing advance and using the best gas possible can/will help also. For me, new MAF and tune did most of it but the timing advance saw another ~2 mpg increase.
Driving style = best thing is driving at constant speeds (smooth as possible) and minimizing shifts/braking. In rush-hour traffic moving at like 10-20mph, I put car in 2nd gear and let it coast in 2nd, no shifting at all and minimal use of brakes, which gets an extra ~2-4 mpg as measured by ScanXL live data (as compared to driving in D mode). When there is no traffic, however, I proceed to drive fast and not care about saving gas. I feel like if you stick to that formula of trying to save gas in traffic, and driving normally when there's no traffic, you can find a good balance, and really it's the traffic situations that allow for the most gas savings to begin with not driving on a wide open road. Most people do the opposite, they floor the gas pedal and the brakes in almost stopped traffic just because they can NOT let a car in front of them, so if you did what you do with the coasting/cruising to a stop in traffic, but drove normally without traffic that would likely be your best bet.
I know you can save maybe $30-50 a month, MAYBE, by driving like an anus. But is it really worth all the trouble and being hated by 90% of all other drivers?
To me, doing this kind of thing is basically the same as using regular gas to try and save money when the difference between 87 and 93 octane is like 10c/gallon and you end up saving like $1-2 on a full tank! In turn compromising engine performance and making it more crappy, these are the people that always make me laugh, go ahead and save that $1. This especially makes me laugh, when someone in a brand new $50k Audi does this **** and thinks they're smart for saving on gas (but in reality not smart at all, since they bought an Audi)
You have a Maxima, not a Honda Civic. If you want better gas mileage, instead of going to the extreme and following a bunch of trucks on the road, you should sell your car and buy a hybrid or a 4-banger, not a V6 powerplant. BTW, not trying to hate just my .2c

I get 28-29mpg highway, which is good mpg, I don't expect to be much better than stock MPG specs considering my driving style and all my mods, plus I'm 4AT so 5MT and 6MT people should be able to do even better. I used to get less (24-25 mpg on highway), before being tuned and getting my new MAF. I also run 38/36psi front/rear with slight weight reduction (car weights 3284lbs w/ driver), but you have to find a balance for YOUR car and YOUR tires because every car will be different here, too much/too little PSI will definitely hurt your gas mileage in different ways.
If you're serious about saving gas = BEST thing you can do is simply tune up your car to run properly (MAF, O2 sensors, etc) since those things affect your fuel directly. Timing advance and using the best gas possible can/will help also. For me, new MAF and tune did most of it but the timing advance saw another ~2 mpg increase.
Driving style = best thing is driving at constant speeds (smooth as possible) and minimizing shifts/braking. In rush-hour traffic moving at like 10-20mph, I put car in 2nd gear and let it coast in 2nd, no shifting at all and minimal use of brakes, which gets an extra ~2-4 mpg as measured by ScanXL live data (as compared to driving in D mode). When there is no traffic, however, I proceed to drive fast and not care about saving gas. I feel like if you stick to that formula of trying to save gas in traffic, and driving normally when there's no traffic, you can find a good balance, and really it's the traffic situations that allow for the most gas savings to begin with not driving on a wide open road. Most people do the opposite, they floor the gas pedal and the brakes in almost stopped traffic just because they can NOT let a car in front of them, so if you did what you do with the coasting/cruising to a stop in traffic, but drove normally without traffic that would likely be your best bet.
I know you can save maybe $30-50 a month, MAYBE, by driving like an anus. But is it really worth all the trouble and being hated by 90% of all other drivers?
To me, doing this kind of thing is basically the same as using regular gas to try and save money when the difference between 87 and 93 octane is like 10c/gallon and you end up saving like $1-2 on a full tank! In turn compromising engine performance and making it more crappy, these are the people that always make me laugh, go ahead and save that $1. This especially makes me laugh, when someone in a brand new $50k Audi does this **** and thinks they're smart for saving on gas (but in reality not smart at all, since they bought an Audi)

You have a Maxima, not a Honda Civic. If you want better gas mileage, instead of going to the extreme and following a bunch of trucks on the road, you should sell your car and buy a hybrid or a 4-banger, not a V6 powerplant. BTW, not trying to hate just my .2c

Ya I have a turbo xs with JeffSoftware UTI software, thanks Aaron at NWP. I just need to install it. Weather has been in the hundreds here so too hot to work on car right now. But my goal is to advance timing on idle to increase mpg at any potential stops, lean out cruising, and up timing and fuel in high end. I want economy on cruising and the high end to have more punch. Doubling up knock sensor to get my knock light as well as keep my knock on the stock ecu map. Apparently software accounts for knock with warnings too Running a turbo xs wideband as well. Yes I know, old school but I got the turbo xs for a great deal.
I know its a 6 cylinder but its nice having a car with performance and good mpg. I like having power for sticky situations. At least its not boosted. My celica I drive fast but mostly because its built too. It runs e85 so its cheaper. Its the garage queen. Maxima is my daily so im experimenting with increasing MPG. Sure I can get a hybrid and get 40 mpg, spend $15-25k. But I sacrifice room and I get a car with no pep. My goal was to increase mpg as is and profit, not to mention its my daily. I have ragged out cars in the past and it only costs more in maintenance and poor mpg.
I guess im grown up. You can definitely tell the teenagers vs adults in this post. LOL. If you want a fast car have a dedicated car. If its a daily your only hurting reliability racing it.
Time to get flamed LOL
Ya I have a turbo xs with JeffSoftware UTI software, thanks Aaron at NWP. I just need to install it. Weather has been in the hundreds here so too hot to work on car right now. But my goal is to advance timing on idle to increase mpg at any potential stops, lean out cruising, and up timing and fuel in high end. I want economy on cruising and the high end to have more punch. Doubling up knock sensor to get my knock light as well as keep my knock on the stock ecu map. Apparently software accounts for knock with warnings too Running a turbo xs wideband as well. Yes I know, old school but I got the turbo xs for a great deal.
I know its a 6 cylinder but its nice having a car with performance and good mpg. I like having power for sticky situations. At least its not boosted. My celica I drive fast but mostly because its built too. It runs e85 so its cheaper. Its the garage queen. Maxima is my daily so im experimenting with increasing MPG. Sure I can get a hybrid and get 40 mpg, spend $15-25k. But I sacrifice room and I get a car with no pep. My goal was to increase mpg as is and profit, not to mention its my daily. I have ragged out cars in the past and it only costs more in maintenance and poor mpg.
I guess im grown up. You can definitely tell the teenagers vs adults in this post. LOL. If you want a fast car have a dedicated car. If its a daily your only hurting reliability racing it.
Time to get flamed LOL
I know its a 6 cylinder but its nice having a car with performance and good mpg. I like having power for sticky situations. At least its not boosted. My celica I drive fast but mostly because its built too. It runs e85 so its cheaper. Its the garage queen. Maxima is my daily so im experimenting with increasing MPG. Sure I can get a hybrid and get 40 mpg, spend $15-25k. But I sacrifice room and I get a car with no pep. My goal was to increase mpg as is and profit, not to mention its my daily. I have ragged out cars in the past and it only costs more in maintenance and poor mpg.
I guess im grown up. You can definitely tell the teenagers vs adults in this post. LOL. If you want a fast car have a dedicated car. If its a daily your only hurting reliability racing it.
Time to get flamed LOL
Going to work in the morning with no traffic.
Coming home early afternoon with light traffic and a/c always blowing.
Take it out sometimes to the store, always in the day with the a/c blowing.
32psi cold. I don't baby it like a hypermiller, Mostly 1/4 throttle. Just driving normal.
No aggressive driving.
mixed street and freeway it gets 19.9mpg.
But on camping trips with 90% freeways I get 25mpg
MPG taken from exactly how much gas I put in, and miles from the cluster assuming
it's calibrated to the stock wheel circumference . 215/60-16 = 82.2in
30mpg is unbelievable.. So how do you get this number? Please tell us.
Coming home early afternoon with light traffic and a/c always blowing.
Take it out sometimes to the store, always in the day with the a/c blowing.
32psi cold. I don't baby it like a hypermiller, Mostly 1/4 throttle. Just driving normal.
No aggressive driving.
mixed street and freeway it gets 19.9mpg.
But on camping trips with 90% freeways I get 25mpg

MPG taken from exactly how much gas I put in, and miles from the cluster assuming
it's calibrated to the stock wheel circumference . 215/60-16 = 82.2in
30mpg is unbelievable.. So how do you get this number? Please tell us.
1. use 93 octane and higher only
2. Have proper tire PSI, alignment, balancing, make sure struts are good, etc, etc (anything suspension related), having a bad alignment for example will hurt your mpg, or bad struts and car riding rougher will cause it, etc... There are just so many things that can affect it.
3. Make sure your car is in great shape, make sure essentials like MAF, O2 sensors, fuel filter, injector, etc (anything fuel related) is in good shape and works well. Again though, so many factors can affect it.
4. After all that, advance your timing, and at least get an AFR tune.
5. Learn to drive at constant speed on the highway, with no traffic you can get to 30mpg. With a timing advance the car allows you to cruise and maintain higher speeds with ease compared to stock timing, so it's not that hard.
But basically remember there are a hundred things that can affect fuel economy, for example did you know that using the A/C on full blast can decrease MPG 5-25%? Even just driving on a rougher road will decrease MPG, hot weather/cold weather, etc, etc. So there you have it. There are way too many things involved, but it's easily possible to achieve 30mpg if your car is in tip top shape and you do all the necessary things during driving.
Just to answer some questions. I change 2 tires about every 1 1/2 - 2 years so 40 psi isn't chewing tires. I do daily this so I put probably 12k-15k per year.
Car is a automatic. I also forgot I do have a camber kit and I believe this also effects MPG. Im running a velocity stack and 6 inch filter so I doubt it will get more dirt. Its not a Cold air intake its in my engine bay. My tein struts did blow but I doubt its the psi since I ran that pressure since I owned the car and my stock struts never had that many issues. My front teins are still sitting in garage. Probably will swap then in another 60k when my kybs go LOL. They got a lifetime warranty so will use the teins as temp struts. I just don't trust them for long term daily driving.
Car is a automatic. I also forgot I do have a camber kit and I believe this also effects MPG. Im running a velocity stack and 6 inch filter so I doubt it will get more dirt. Its not a Cold air intake its in my engine bay. My tein struts did blow but I doubt its the psi since I ran that pressure since I owned the car and my stock struts never had that many issues. My front teins are still sitting in garage. Probably will swap then in another 60k when my kybs go LOL. They got a lifetime warranty so will use the teins as temp struts. I just don't trust them for long term daily driving.
I also think stock air box is restrictive. My 6 inch filter helped. I got so much done to my car though it might be hard to compare to another maxima. I have everything NWP part made, poly mounts, exhaust, custom 6 inch intake. Got the turbo xs sitting. Maybe it will get cool enough here where I can install it in a month LOL.
Also the higher mpg I noticed is because its been really warm here. I also noticed make sure your oil level is topped off. Since I run no cat at all I get a little extra blow by. I have been researching this and car with no cats tend to burn a little oil due to lack of restriction.
Also the higher mpg I noticed is because its been really warm here. I also noticed make sure your oil level is topped off. Since I run no cat at all I get a little extra blow by. I have been researching this and car with no cats tend to burn a little oil due to lack of restriction.
I read some of this but not all..I have a modded 6th gen that I deliver pizza in and romp on it every once in a while and I average about 19mpg..and that is with an axle on its way out and a broken evap purge valve..
my little b14 sentra used to legit just beat the living **** out of it EVERYWHERE..bouncing of rev limiter 1st and 2nd gear every damn time..haha..whether delivering or not and still got 31mpg out of a hard driven tank of delivery driving..just sayin
(EPA est 25/35 for that car)
my little b14 sentra used to legit just beat the living **** out of it EVERYWHERE..bouncing of rev limiter 1st and 2nd gear every damn time..haha..whether delivering or not and still got 31mpg out of a hard driven tank of delivery driving..just sayin
(EPA est 25/35 for that car)
Last edited by justin2386; Sep 7, 2013 at 09:34 AM.
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