5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

5spd swap crank no start...

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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #1  
Jaydeemhm's Avatar
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5spd swap crank no start...

I just did a 5 speed swap into my 200 maxima.. I bypassed the P/N switch which is the Green/orange wire.. I looked up many threads founded ther could be grounding issues and ive check them all... im stumped I checked all my fuses.. and realized when i try to start my car the igniton switch fuse burns out... anybody experienced this before?
Old Nov 15, 2013 | 10:16 AM
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You probably have a wire that got pinched between pieces. The power to energize the starter solenoid does come through the ignition switch, but so a lot of other circuits.

Bypassing the wire from the park/neutral switch possibly could be the problem, depending on how/what you did. The park/neutral switch supplies a ground to the energizing coil of the park/neutral position relay. The 12 volts for the coil also comes through the ignition switch.

What I would suggest is that you un-do the wire bypass. You can leave the wires loose for this test, just insulate any bare ends. Then remove the park/neutral position relay (the cover is labeled INHIBIT). Make a jumper that will go in pins 6 and 7 of the socket. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay and I think also the relay socket. You can also look at page EL-8 in the FSM, 3rd diagram from the top.

This bypasses the park/neutral position relay and the starter will crank anytime you turn the key, driving down the road or whenever. If you drive with the relay removed, the cruise control won't work. This would require another jumper to fix.

If the fuse still blows, it's back to the pinched wire theory.
Old Nov 16, 2013 | 06:06 PM
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Did you sand the mating surfaces on the engine and tranny?
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 12:56 AM
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No..
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
You probably have a wire that got pinched between pieces. The power to energize the starter solenoid does come through the ignition switch, but so a lot of other circuits.

Bypassing the wire from the park/neutral switch possibly could be the problem, depending on how/what you did. The park/neutral switch supplies a ground to the energizing coil of the park/neutral position relay. The 12 volts for the coil also comes through the ignition switch.

What I would suggest is that you un-do the wire bypass. You can leave the wires loose for this test, just insulate any bare ends. Then remove the park/neutral position relay (the cover is labeled INHIBIT). Make a jumper that will go in pins 6 and 7 of the socket. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay and I think also the relay socket. You can also look at page EL-8 in the FSM, 3rd diagram from the top.

This bypasses the park/neutral position relay and the starter will crank anytime you turn the key, driving down the road or whenever. If you drive with the relay removed, the cruise control won't work. This would require another jumper to fix.

If the fuse still blows, it's back to the pinched wire theory.
Iight I started to do that at first but I still didnt crank
.. it only cranked when I grounded the wire.. so im gonna try the again but before that im gonna bring the trans back down to sand the mating surfaces cause I keep hearing about that.. ill keep yall posted thanks
Old Nov 17, 2013 | 05:32 AM
  #6  
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Just run a ground to the trans bolt before you pull it. If it still doesn't start it's not a ground
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 12:22 PM
  #7  
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Ok so heres the deal.. I replaced the cranksensor on the trans nd on my scan tool im not getting any reading.. plus I noticed the fuel pump volts is reading at 0 but im gettong fuel.. btw the old sensor read a few times I guess thats when I started getting backfiring then after the ignition switch fuse popped no more back firing.. I jumped the fuse cause I didnt want to keep spending 3 bucks for a fuse..
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaydeemhm
Ok so heres the deal.. I replaced the cranksensor on the trans nd on my scan tool im not getting any reading.. plus I noticed the fuel pump volts is reading at 0 but im gettong fuel.. btw the old sensor read a few times I guess thats when I started getting backfiring then after the ignition switch fuse popped no more back firing.. I jumped the fuse cause I didnt want to keep spending 3 bucks for a fuse..
Alsooo.. im hearing a strange noise from the throttle body
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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What all did you swap?
Old Nov 18, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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Are you imoblized? That would cause 0 on fuel
Old Nov 19, 2013 | 07:12 AM
  #11  
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No it shouldnt be.. I hear it prime when it on the on position.. and the light for the alarm doesnt stay lit.. also.. my scan tool doesnt show codes for the anti theft
Old Nov 19, 2013 | 09:22 AM
  #12  
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I forgot to mention I have a fidanza lightweight flywheel.. I was reading on the 5.5gen the cps needs to be closer to flywheel. . I also noticed the holes doesnt match.. the trans is smaller to the engine and I noticed when I bolt the sensor down the sensor pokes out some
Old Nov 19, 2013 | 10:28 AM
  #13  
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Answer my quesion. I'll ask again what all did you do/swap?
Old Nov 20, 2013 | 10:19 AM
  #14  
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5spd swap nd headers .. fidanza lightweight flywheel exedy clutch kit 96 5spd trans
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