5spd swap crank no start...
5spd swap crank no start...
I just did a 5 speed swap into my 200 maxima.. I bypassed the P/N switch which is the Green/orange wire.. I looked up many threads founded ther could be grounding issues and ive check them all... im stumped I checked all my fuses.. and realized when i try to start my car the igniton switch fuse burns out... anybody experienced this before?
You probably have a wire that got pinched between pieces. The power to energize the starter solenoid does come through the ignition switch, but so a lot of other circuits.
Bypassing the wire from the park/neutral switch possibly could be the problem, depending on how/what you did. The park/neutral switch supplies a ground to the energizing coil of the park/neutral position relay. The 12 volts for the coil also comes through the ignition switch.
What I would suggest is that you un-do the wire bypass. You can leave the wires loose for this test, just insulate any bare ends. Then remove the park/neutral position relay (the cover is labeled INHIBIT). Make a jumper that will go in pins 6 and 7 of the socket. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay and I think also the relay socket. You can also look at page EL-8 in the FSM, 3rd diagram from the top.
This bypasses the park/neutral position relay and the starter will crank anytime you turn the key, driving down the road or whenever. If you drive with the relay removed, the cruise control won't work. This would require another jumper to fix.
If the fuse still blows, it's back to the pinched wire theory.
Bypassing the wire from the park/neutral switch possibly could be the problem, depending on how/what you did. The park/neutral switch supplies a ground to the energizing coil of the park/neutral position relay. The 12 volts for the coil also comes through the ignition switch.
What I would suggest is that you un-do the wire bypass. You can leave the wires loose for this test, just insulate any bare ends. Then remove the park/neutral position relay (the cover is labeled INHIBIT). Make a jumper that will go in pins 6 and 7 of the socket. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay and I think also the relay socket. You can also look at page EL-8 in the FSM, 3rd diagram from the top.
This bypasses the park/neutral position relay and the starter will crank anytime you turn the key, driving down the road or whenever. If you drive with the relay removed, the cruise control won't work. This would require another jumper to fix.
If the fuse still blows, it's back to the pinched wire theory.
You probably have a wire that got pinched between pieces. The power to energize the starter solenoid does come through the ignition switch, but so a lot of other circuits.
Bypassing the wire from the park/neutral switch possibly could be the problem, depending on how/what you did. The park/neutral switch supplies a ground to the energizing coil of the park/neutral position relay. The 12 volts for the coil also comes through the ignition switch.
What I would suggest is that you un-do the wire bypass. You can leave the wires loose for this test, just insulate any bare ends. Then remove the park/neutral position relay (the cover is labeled INHIBIT). Make a jumper that will go in pins 6 and 7 of the socket. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay and I think also the relay socket. You can also look at page EL-8 in the FSM, 3rd diagram from the top.
This bypasses the park/neutral position relay and the starter will crank anytime you turn the key, driving down the road or whenever. If you drive with the relay removed, the cruise control won't work. This would require another jumper to fix.
If the fuse still blows, it's back to the pinched wire theory.
Bypassing the wire from the park/neutral switch possibly could be the problem, depending on how/what you did. The park/neutral switch supplies a ground to the energizing coil of the park/neutral position relay. The 12 volts for the coil also comes through the ignition switch.
What I would suggest is that you un-do the wire bypass. You can leave the wires loose for this test, just insulate any bare ends. Then remove the park/neutral position relay (the cover is labeled INHIBIT). Make a jumper that will go in pins 6 and 7 of the socket. The pin numbers are molded into the bottom of the relay and I think also the relay socket. You can also look at page EL-8 in the FSM, 3rd diagram from the top.
This bypasses the park/neutral position relay and the starter will crank anytime you turn the key, driving down the road or whenever. If you drive with the relay removed, the cruise control won't work. This would require another jumper to fix.
If the fuse still blows, it's back to the pinched wire theory.
.. it only cranked when I grounded the wire.. so im gonna try the again but before that im gonna bring the trans back down to sand the mating surfaces cause I keep hearing about that.. ill keep yall posted thanks
Ok so heres the deal.. I replaced the cranksensor on the trans nd on my scan tool im not getting any reading.. plus I noticed the fuel pump volts is reading at 0 but im gettong fuel.. btw the old sensor read a few times I guess thats when I started getting backfiring then after the ignition switch fuse popped no more back firing.. I jumped the fuse cause I didnt want to keep spending 3 bucks for a fuse..
Ok so heres the deal.. I replaced the cranksensor on the trans nd on my scan tool im not getting any reading.. plus I noticed the fuel pump volts is reading at 0 but im gettong fuel.. btw the old sensor read a few times I guess thats when I started getting backfiring then after the ignition switch fuse popped no more back firing.. I jumped the fuse cause I didnt want to keep spending 3 bucks for a fuse..
I forgot to mention I have a fidanza lightweight flywheel.. I was reading on the 5.5gen the cps needs to be closer to flywheel. . I also noticed the holes doesnt match.. the trans is smaller to the engine and I noticed when I bolt the sensor down the sensor pokes out some
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