Hello everyone,

I'm active on many forums like this and really enjoy the knowledge you can find on these. I'm in the process of trading my 2005 Cadillac STS V8 for a 2010 Maxima 3.5 and I wanted to do some research here first before I sign paperwork. As I said this is a 2010 Maxima S 3.5 looks fairly loaded but not fully. is there anything that I need to ask the dealer about like recalls or known issues?
any thanks will be greatly appreciated.

 

I myself own a 2010 Maxima and the only issue I've had so far was when the drivers seat stopped working. Others have had issues with the telescopic steering wheel and rattles coming from the dash and full glass roof.

One thing I would recommend you do is spend the extra money on the extended warranty if its offered to you. This is my 4th Nissan and 3rd Maxima and I bought the extended warranty due to the high cost of replacing the CVT transmission.

I've already used it to fix a problem with my navigation system when my iPod connection went bad.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the transmission. do you recall what the price range was for the extended warranty? I'm also curious if this car is priced well. 2010 with 77K miles, 1 owner, New Hampshire, $13500

 

If it's an "S" than thats the more basic model.


No a bad price, but i've seen better

 

Don't the 2010's already have a 10 year/120k warranty on the transmission? It would seem like a waste to me if that was your main reason.

 

is this true?

 

It is. The 09's and 10's have 10 yr 120k warranties on the cvt. The 11's and on do not. Most people say Nissan offered that warranty for the first two years of the 7th gen to show their faith in their product and help ease people's minds a bit.

 

I hope the warranty is still there. That would be great. This car has leather and the sports package, with the spoiler. Do those options come on the S model?

 

Recently got an SV, disappointed the seats don't fold down (due to rear bucket seats vs. flat ones). But, everything else outweighs this negative... just can't dump too many skis or snowboards in the trunk

 

The options are S, SV, SV w/sport, or SV w/premium. If you've got the sports pkg, then it's an SV and not an S.

The SV w/sport is an awesome pkg, the 19" wheels and spoiler are sweet. Definitely looks even better than the already-good-looking other models.

 

I just confirmed with the dealer that it has the 19" wheels. Ill see if I can post a picture here.

 

I think that is priced too low. Its priced as a basic S model(no leather etc). Don't forget to check for rust.

 

We always look for rust up here in NH.I agree it's very reasonably priced. Hopefully that doesn't mean there are issues.

 

I'm not saying its reasonably priced I think It's priced too low. "Too good to be true" too low. "You get what you pay for" too low. Check here for recent prices: http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...hopper-49.html

The closes I see which matches your specs is this: http://forums.maxima.org/8868089-post1931.html

Others can chime in...

 

Seems underpriced, but 77K is a lot of miles. Worth a look. Make sure it's not a salvage or a flood car. Consider having a mechanic look at it before you buy. I would be very cautious but would not discount it simply because of the price.

http://www.edmunds.com/nissan/maxima...e-results.html

 

Yea that's the SV with sport package. Go to Nissanusa.com and look at the Maxima. It shows the differences in the packages. It was helpful for me to know the options when I bought my 2010 Max few weeks ago.


Here's two higher mileage cars from around my area. 30min north of Phildelphia. 13,500 seems low butmim sure the dealer doesn't want to sit on that car all winter.


http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...Index=10&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...gIndex=9&Log=0

 

Bear in mind they changed the packages from year to year.

 

Oh I know, it gives a good general idea. I didn't know what the difference between a S and SV were. I do now

We don't really have a thread on here that breaks down the packages do we?

I know I looked during my search for a Max, didn't see one on here

 

I really appreciate all the feed back. I used to sell cars for a few years in NC before moving back up here and we nearly always would mark up our used cars $4k. This dealer doesn't seem to be that way. I work with a guy who just last week traded his Altima with 55k miles in on a lease for a maxima. They gave him $14k trade and only marked up $1500 based on what they have it listed for. My point is based on my experience selling cars those prices you see are with major mark up and if you pay that price for it you are putting possibly an extra $2k in their pockets.ill make sure to look the car over for damage, inside the door jams and engine bay. The price doesn't concern me that much based on others experience at this dealership.

 

RCW, did you look at the carfax report? Looks like it was involved in two accidents.

10/14/2011 Vermont
Damage Report Accident reported
Vehicle involved in a sideswipe collision
Vehicle damaged in multiple places
Vehicle towed



04/08/2012 Damage Report Damage reported after
accident or other incident
Damage to right front

 

That would explain the low price. Dealers and sales people are not generally selling cars below their bluebook value without a good reason. That being said it may still be worth it if you know the condition of the car up front.

 

Hey guys, I did check out the carfax and I assumed that was the reason for the lower price. I'm going tomorrow to see and drive the car, so far this deal has been over email. Being an ex salesman I never go to the dealership until things are all sorted out. I hated wasting people's time and I don't like wasting my time. Once we got the price worked out with trade I decided to move forward. Once I'm there tomorrow I'll test drive enough to warm it up well and then pop the hood and listen for the knock ( deal breaker ) unless the throw in this 100,000 mile warranty I keep hearing about. I'll check the front where the damage was and the sides and check for paint lines inside the doors and engine bay. Just curious how well the repair shop did it's job. Right now I'm leaning toward not purchasing but I might change my mind after the drive, who knows. What really stinks is with all this Bearing knock news it kind of takes the Maxima off my list of cars I want. They do have an 06 Infinity M35x right next to it for not much more money and about the same mileage, do those engines have the same issue?

 

Personally I would not buy that car, I'm not a fan of prior accidents or body damage.

 

I'm not really a fan of previous damage either but I also have been in accidents and had my vehicles fixed properly and didn't feel any less about them when I sold them. Depending on the accident, if it was structural then absolutely that's a deal breaker but up here in the N.E with the winters we have I'm not suprised to see many cars with dents and repair history.

 

That's correct the 2010's do have the 10 yr coverage. But I bought it mainly for the electronics and other small things in the car that can go wrong. I've had 2 repairs done already (drivers seat and navigation/iPod issues).

Although they were covered by the basic warranty how many repairs seem to crop up just as the basic warranty expires? Some people here have decided not to use the departure/entry automatic tilt on their steering wheels due to possible motor failure.

I on the other hand use the extra functions on my cars (that's why I got them, to use) and the warranty covers those items if they fail. The full price of the warranty was $2100 but I got it for $1200, (retired military and customer loyalty discounts).

 

I wouldn't take the Maxima off your list. The bearing knock is most likely limited to less than 20% of Maximas and SEEMS to show up rather early. As odd as it may seem buying new Maxima may be a bigger risk as far as the motor is concerned. Get a good motor and these things will run forever.

If you looking at used Maximas and find one with 30K or more miles, no bearing knock and everything else Ok and at the right price I would go for it if it's what you want.

 

Thanks for the words, I was wondering just how many of these cars were affected, I know you don't have exact numbers but if it's mostly with engines that have fewer miles I might feel better about this car which has 80K. Im planning on test driving to get it really warm and then popping the hood to listen.

 

My guess would be if it doesn't show up by 30K miles you are good to go.