I have a 98 Maxima GLE. It has a brand new fully charged battery as well as a Brand new re-manufactured Alternator (Verified Operational and installed yesterday)... I've searched the forums but could not find a case similar to mine. Most posts point to parasitic drain, defective alternators and/or batteries... none of which seem to apply to my situation.

Problem: The Alternator is not creating enough voltage to keep the battery charged on it's own; therefore the battery must be charged daily to remain operable. While driving, the battery begins to drop charge. The clock display begins to dim on the right, the windows respond sluggishly and the fuel pump beings to struggle, when depressing the accelerator, the engine gasps and hesitates before my 'Black Beauty' finally comes to rest, dead in traffic.

I can not seem to locate the source of the drain nor can I determine what is causing the alternator avoid it's inherent responsibilities. The battery holds a charge very well, in fact, I have left the vehicle parked for over a week... it indeed fires right back up, no problem... I have determined that there is absolutely parasitic drain when the vehicle is sedentary (Double checked through the use of a clamp on amp meter).

My Trouble Shooting thus far:
Continuity from + alternator terminal to + battery terminal: Checked out
Continuity from - alternator terminal to - battery terminal: Checked out
Continuity from alternator housing to - battery terminal: Checked out
Continuity from manifold housing to - battery terminal: Checked out

With Full Battery/Engine OFF:
Voltage from + battery terminal to - battery terminal: 12.8V (both hooked and unhooked from engine)
Voltage from + alternator terminal to - battery terminal: 12.8V
Voltage from alternator housing to + battery terminal: 12.8V

With 'Full' Battery/Engine ON:
Voltage from + battery terminal to - battery terminal: ~11V
Voltage from + alternator terminal to - battery terminal: ~11V
Voltage from alternator housing to + battery terminal: ~11V

Other notes:
Serpentine Belt is clean, Tensioner Pulley is fine, any fuses that I could think of potentially having an impact on resolution have all checked-out. I will say, I did install a new radio a while back... it works so I don't believe this is the issue. I do intend to remove it this evening to alleviate it as a variable. Also, the P/ANT cable is severed so the motor runs a bit longer than it used to but does shut off after 15-20 seconds or so both up and down... Maybe I'm overlooking SOMETHING?

Ideas? Help! I feel like it's ALMOST time to firebomb this car in a deserted county ditch solely for the feeling of vengeance.

Thank you!
-Joseph

 

Either someone didnt reinstall the alternator wiring correctly. Or u got a faulty remanufactured alternator. This HAS happened before, where ppl have purcahsed faulty alternators.

 

You say the alty is "verified operational," yet it's only putting out 11v. That's pretty much defective by definition. It sounds like the alty or voltage regulator (which I believe is part of the alty) is bad. I've always heard you should go new with alternators.

You did check all the grounds, right?

 

Indeed. I agree with you. This is a replacement of a replacement. Had one seemingly go bad in November... replaced in Dec... now replaced again in January. The shop I bought it from tested the one from Dec... it didn't pass their machine test. I had them test this latest one before I left the store. It indeed passed.

Perplexing. I have some of the most bizarre issues with this car. A while back I replaced all of the coils only to find the code was being thrown by a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Troubleshooting issues on this car is tedious at best...

So, still wondering what the deal is. I don't feel like ripping this thing out again if the issue is elsewhere. What are you sentiments on reliability in regard to the 'engine running' alt/battery test?

 

Yes. The regulator is internal to this alternator.

I'm also led to believe that this is a ground issue somewhere... but based on my readings from above I can't deduce where it might be. Thoughts?

Two potential issues come to mind:
1) The main negative terminal lead/cable. Not sure where it attaches within the engine compartment. Do you by chance know?

2) The Stereo was connected erroneously.. MAYBE the antenna signal wire / amp switch? Sidenote: I have completely disconnected all wiring from the battery to my amplifier as well as the power antenna switch lead.

 

There are two grounds that are easy to miss. One is on the front (left side on a transverse engine) of the block, towards the rear of the engine (the driver side of the car). You have poke around behind the intake stuff to see it. The other is underneath the battery tray.

 

The alternator is not charging. 3 possibilities:
1) bad alternator
2) small connector on alternator not making good connection.
3) fuse by battery blown (7.5 amp ,cover label ALT.S)

 

When you turn on the ignition (one click, don't start the car) and with the engine not running, do you see the charge light on? The alternator has a terminal to receive 12V from the ignition switch, if this path is broken (there is a fuse) the alternator is going to generate any power. The charge light is in this path.

 

There is a pretty good troubleshooting section in the service manual. If engine is running and alternator produces no power (your case) and the charge light is on, then the 7.5A alternator fuse is the prime suspect. If the fuse is okay, you may want to unplug the connect to the alternator and verify continuity. One of the pins on the connector is connected to the battery +12V via the 7.5A fuse so be careful.

 

This.

OP stop over complicating this lol.

 

Open the altenator up and check the diodes for contiuity one way....infinite the other way....If you see no other problems order another IC (internal) voltage regulator....Make sure your engine has all it's grounds connected as per MM!

 

FIXED!!!

Your short post ultimately simplified the issue; making it 'solvable'. I do appreciate everyone's help though....

Thanks!

For anyone having this issue in the future... Turned out this was a ground issue which explains the freakish behaviour of my stereo amplifier as well... the ground to the body under the battery pan was the culprit... it was mucked up and so I cleaned it up... I cleaned the engine block strap as well. Reading 14V+ now... yeah!

One last question: is it okay if the battery sits at a higher voltage than 12v when the car is completely off?

 

Yes

 

2003 Infiniti i 35 if the battery indicater light is out will that stop my car from charging, because maybe the circuit is broken.?

 

the bulb might just be burnt out

 

Why would that scenario cause you battery not to charge? If that light is on then maybe your battery isn't being charged!

 

It wouldn't cause it not to charge, there would just be no indication that it wasn't. OP fix it. I do get the question though, as with SRS systems many cars of today use a Bulb or led to complete a circuit, the bulb being out on subaru will trigger the CEL.

 

Check it with a VOM or OB2 tester that monitor charging system!

 

Please turn the ignition key one notch so that the idiot lights show up. You should see a red hight with a battery symbol in it.

Some cars send power through the light bulb, then to the exciter coil (or something ) in the alternator.

A burned out light bulb can cause the symptoms you have.

I had a similar fluster cluck with another make of car I owned once. No luck at all till I replaced the light bulb.

 

I'm not in front of my Mitchell Manuals to confirm that the circuit run thru the battery warning light bulb then to the Alternator field. you inspected the alternator plug and grounds? You ensured that the fusible links are all serviceable?

 

It just seems like a poor design to have an alternator's operation to be dependent upon the life of an incandescent warning light bulb. I would hope that Nissan would be smarter than that !

 

Years ago when my TC cover was leaking way too much, the cost of changing the water pump, Chain and tensioner and all was worth the additional cost as the cover removal and sealing was half.

Somehow the idiot kid made an intermittent short. Car would drive fine and then suddenly whenever it wanted, some of the gauges stopped working and if run long enough, wouldn't start. Dead Battery. Replaced the alternator, then the alternator harness and then finally admitted they shorted something out. Every time a 7.5 amp fuse would blow under the dash.

There is a screwed up design of electric signalling that tells the circuit through the Instrument panel to provide voltage to the battery and keep it where is should be. When it gets off track, Nissan hasn't provided much or any info on how to trace this down.

Maybe contact Nissan support directly and ask about any troubleshooting protocols and definite failure points.

 

Actually, that's how idiot lights and alternators interact on many cars of different manufacturers.
Not just Nissan.

This type of wiring arrangement is what causes the light to come on when the alternator fails. It also lights up as we turn the key to start the car. We never notice it. It lights to let us know it still works.
Which is why I want him to see if it functions.