97 max se auto, 185k mikes, usually starts right up but occasionally cranks for a good 10-15 seconds before starting. Doesn't appear to be a grounding issue (cranking not interrupted) and I just replaced the ignition switch (was turning the key and getting nothing on occasion). Is it the starter then? Just wondering why it starts fine more often than not. Thanks.

 

I should add that I have cleaned the IACV and replaced the CPS (unrelated, car was stalling randomly).

I've been trying to dig through old threads, and one mentioned that courtesy lights dimming during cranking was a "sure sign" of bad grounding. I do get dimming lights during cranking, but the cranking is uninterrupted until it turns over.

Any thoughts?

 

Automatic or manual trans. If manual than it can be grounding problem. If automatic than it not grounding problem. Its mosut likely fuel related. If it is fuel related than change your fuel pressure regulator with an OEM Nissan one. It might not be holding enough pressure causing long and extended cranks until it repressurizes. I have a 97 Max my self

 

I would change the FPR just because its old and tired. The dimming lights could mean the starter is bad, has an electrical issue which cause it to draw way more current than normal.

 

Check the crank shaft position sensors wires... I know u said u changed it, when this happend to me i replaced both sensors and nothing changed... Turns out the wiring to the sensor thats right by the oil pan was completly corroded from excessive oil getting on it from changing out oil filters because the oil gets all over those wires. May not be ur issue but can be a good thing to check. Cam shaft sensor can get oil in it too... If those dont do anything i go with the guys up there change fpr, mabey a fuel filter can help with the hard starts? Im just going off the issues ive had hope this helps

 

Any CEL codes ??

 

if it starts better when the engine is warm or starts right up on the second crank then its pretty much the starter

 

Auto tranny, no codes, warm/cold seemingly has no effect. After I changed CPS had much better idle, no stalling.

I'll check the FPR. I've also read something about the coolant temp sensor as a possible factor...

 

deffinetly wouldn't hurt to check the FPR, because of the mileage on the car but that's my best guess man good luck

 

Check FPR.

 

I just fixed my car. Tried almost everything including replacing starter with a spare, spare battery, removing ignition switch, jumping starter solenoid, jumping clutch relay, and cleaning the ground by the air box on the negative cable. I finally cleaned the ground on the negative battery cable leading to the block which was pretty easy and car starts up fine. So relieved to have fixed this. My problem started when it would crank but not start and then it would interupt cranking. Finally it wouldn't crank at all and just click. Good luck to all you no crankers out there.