So, my 2001 manual maxima SE would stall on a cold morning if i didnt catch the rpms from dropping to 0. It would idle at around 500 until it warmed up then it would be at around 600. I had it scanned at autozone and they suggested that i cleaned that iac. So i did... Now my car always idles from 1200-1500 RPM. It makes driving manual pretty difficult. Any suggestions? Definitely not asking retardzone again...

 

Looks like your IACV is due for a replacement.

How many miles on the car? Most IACVs fail between 120k and 160K miles, but there are exceptions in either direction.

You may already know that many people implement "coolant by-pass" because the coolant circulating through the IACV is considered a major factor contributing to IACV failure. Not everybody agrees - there are reports of IACVs that failed without any trace of coolant leakage.

 

Its currently at 139.5k. I heard that the ECM goes when the IAC goes. I havent had a chance to locate and pull out the ecm.

 

Re. "ECM goes when IAC goes" .... not always, but often.

The IACV winding fails by "shorting", and the short in turn fries the driver transistors in the ECU. I would recommend disconnecting your IACV at the first sight of P0505 occurence ... you might be lucky enough to catch it before the damage to the ECU is done.

You can drive your car without the IACV (although poorly) but not without the ECU.

 

I had the same issue in my 2000 auto. High, bouncing rpm's. Try doing the idle relearn procedure. It took me a while to get it right but it eventually worked. The car has been idling at 700-750 ever since.
I've also had the cold start stalling issue, where I'd have to feather the peddle to keep it from dying until it was warm. I changed the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks, and replaced the upper intake manifold gasket. The culprit turned out to be a pcv valve. Replaced that and the car now runs perfectly in cold start conditions. It's about $5-8 from any parts store. I think it's definitely worth replacing it just to rule out the possibility.