Hopefully, I won't take too hard of a beating for starting another "automatic transmission slip" thread, but I have spent hours searching and reading and can't seem to find information that applies to my situation.

I have a 2003 Maxima, automatic, 51,000 miles. I don't race the car, and I purchased it from my 84-year-old grandmother, who drove it off the lot when it was brand new in 2002. She also didn't race (that I know of).

Under normal conditions, the 1-2 shift is rather harsh until the transmission warms up. Once warm, it will usually shift pretty smoothly if I give it a little more throttle than usual.

The 2-3 shift does not really "slip" in the traditional sense. It flares when cold, which apparently is normal. But once warm, under normal conditions it always seems to "hesitate" before shifting into 3rd. There does not seem to be a spike in RPMS, just a hesitation like it can't decide what to do. Very rarely will it shift smoothly.

TCM? Solenoids? Valve body? What do you guys think? I could have swore I saw a TSB for the 2003 at one point that addressed this, but now all I seem to be able to find is 2000-2001.

Thank you in advance!

 

pretty much all you mentioned above is normal for the trans to do. no codes i'm guessing? fluid level light red and up to the hashmarks on the stick? tcm possibly, i might be having the same problem as you except with reverse. taking it to a shop on friday to have it checked.

 

I think everyone has this! Some say the replacement sol pack fixes it and others do yhe transgo kit witch fixes it.

 

None of the 5 or 5.5 gen autos I've driven exhibited any of these symptoms even at close to 200k. They all have the slow 1-2 shift, but that's a known ****ty design decision.

 

Seems normal. This was exactly my car before I upgraded the VB.

 

If fluid is clean and level is good sounds like possible valve body.

 

Get a used transmission with lower mileage and while at it install a transGO HD2 kit + stiffer motor mounts from Knight (member here). Then be happy

 

I'd say just the VB mod, what he described is normal, in fact it's better behavior than what mine showed before the VB mod.

 

My Maxima used to act exactly like this until it would warm up. Honestly, I agree with Nmex. Just throw a VB upgrade at it and be done. $250...$400 with labor.

 

Thank you everyone for the prompt responses! I guess this is just normal behavior for the 4AT.

Max Ride - Fluid level is good, and color is bright red. I got the car with 32,000 on it and have done two drain and fills with Mobil 1 ATF since then.

To those who have done the HD2 vb mod- This car is a daily driver. With all stock mounts in good shape, how "rough" do you think that will make the shifts? From what I have read it is mainly the 1-2 shift that really firms up. Do the other shifts also become more noticeable? I am not against replacing the mounts, just entertaining all possibilities at this point.

NmexMax, after you upgraded the vb, did you still have the cold 2-3 flare, or was that also eliminated?

 

Nope, been fine for 110k.

 

Get/buy/install an automatic transmission cooler such as the bar and plate b&m. Choose a high quality synthetic fluid such as amsoil. Do a flush of the system. I do them by hand. Don't forget the vb upgrade. Enjoy!

 

I have the same issue with my 2002 Maxima SE with 104,000 mileage. I fix the issue by doing the ffing
:drop the pan and replace it with new one (the old pan have almost 1/2 inch thick of sludge around the surface including the magnet, thats why never flush the transmission because some of those sludge might reach the torque converter.
:spray contact cleaner on the solenoid.
: replace the ATF with OE Amsoil
: I hook up the vehicle to Nissan Consult (OEM OBD) to reset the ECU. The ECU now will relearn the driving habit of the new driver (me)

 

I think I am sold on the VB upgrade, when I have the funds. In the meantime, though, I may give this a try. You will have to pardon my ignorance, but I thought I read somewhere on this forum that disconnecting the battery for a few hours will reset the ECU. Is that accurate, or is hooking it up to Consult a necessary step?

 

Battery trick does not work on 5.5s. You can reset it with the ignition switch and pedal timing procedure.

 

Ah, so that must be the "pedal dance" being referred to in many threads.

Thank you for the clarification!