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Fuel Pump and Control Module

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Old Apr 27, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #1  
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Fuel Pump and Control Module

Hi gurus
I have been having a problem with my 1996 Maxima for quite some time (more than 3-4 months). It needs Cranking for almost 2 minutes before it starts. I think if I press the Gas Pedal half way through, it helps, but not sure.
Tried the following :
Changed the Crank and CAM position sensors. Put a ground wire from the battery negative to the just below the Intake manifold.
Gave it to 2 mechanics. One gave up after a week and the other said that there is a leak in the head gasket and hence very little coolant flows into the engine and it was not worth fixing since the car is so old and has lot of miles (285K).
Showed it to the NIssan Dealer. The Dealer said that the fuel pressure is not holding when the ignition key is turned off (drops to 18 PSI) and suggested to replace the Fuel Pump Assembly, and the Fuel Pump Moderator (or control module 170014p200). In all a total cost of $1200
The questions I have are :
Does this sound ok ?
Is it necessary to change all the Fuel Pump Assembly ? Or just the fuel pump
Would it make sense to just change the Fuel Pump first and then see if it fixes the problem and if not then change the Fuel Pump Moderator ?
Sorry for a lot of questions.. Thanks for the time.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #2  
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Had same problem like you and here's how I fixed it. Ok this how I fixed my hard start issues with my Nissan maxima 1997 se automatic. I had to make sure my fuel injectors were good and they were but not the pintle caps that hold the O-rings together. The pintle caps were cracked and as soon as I Fixed those the car would start right away on every start. Then later on car would still start on the fisrt start but as soon as I would start after an 1-2 hours the car would start but would almost stall but it wouldn't and I figured it had to be a fuel pressure problem and it was. The fuel pressure regulator was good as I had a new oem one on. That left me to the fuel pump. I had put a an oem fuel pump that had 129,000 miles that I thought would run good but now I know no matter how many miles the pump has it can still be bad and it was luckily I had a oem Nissan fuel pump from 1995 Nissan maxima with only 176,000 miles and now no more problems. its been two weeks and now im finally happy that I don't have to work on my car anymore or worry about the starting because after 1 whole year it's finally gone. Its gone and now I am getting more gas millage as I filled my tank with premium 91 and I still a half of a tank with 180 miles. Im hoping to get at least 300 miles with a full tank of gas now that the car has no problems with 303,396 miles on it. Now if I can get 300 miles from my maxima now where I used to 260 miles with a full tank that would kick *** and I would be happy.

Last edited by Maxima 97 SE; Apr 27, 2014 at 11:49 AM.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 11:21 AM
  #3  
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Do the fuel pump yourself AND replace the fuel pressure regulator (little vacuum device near the PCV)

Also, have you ever replaced the fuel filter? If not do that 1st. It should be replaced every 30K miles.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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So I had a similar issue. I turn the key and the engine turns over but just doesn't want to start. I had replaced the starter because I though that might be it. As far as I know, no codes.

Anyway, I also changed the plugs too. I think they had over 100k on them. Didn't fix the problem.

So to guarantee a start, I had to pump the gas a couple of times. Once the engine started, it would seem like it was going to die but after I drove away it was fine. Until I stopped at a light/sign and it would idle bounce.

Anyways, I had a replacement ignition switch in the garage so I spent the 45 minutes or put that in.

VOLA! No more start issues and the idle bounce is also gone.

Try that first.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #5  
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We need a little more info to help with your problem. Does the problem only happen after the car has been sitting? Once it's started and shut off will it start again with no problems?

It seems like your on the right track with the pressure dropping.
If you turn the key on and wait about 5 seconds and do this several times without cranking the engine over the fuel pressure will increase.
Old May 17, 2014 | 01:22 PM
  #6  
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I bought a Fuel Pump assembly on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290991968874...84.m1497.l2649
that fits the 96 Maxima. Changed it myself. It was pretty easy. I made sure that all the connectors were connected properly and the fuel pipes were connected properly.
Here is the result:
I tried to restart the car and it is much better. It starts within 2 attempts. So the problem is not completely gone. Once the car starts the engine RPM revs up and down a few times before it settles.

But I got Check Engine light and following codes:
P0180: Fuel Temperature Sensor
P0500: Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault
P0130: Aur Fuel Ration Sensor Bank 1
P0136: H02S12 circuit condition

I reopened the fuel pump assembly and verified that every thing was in order.
What should I do next:
Change the Fuel Pump Control Module ?
Change the Fuel Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator

Any suggestions would be welcome. I also appreciate all the answers I have received so far.

Also do you know any online store where I can buy Nissan Parts (e.g. Fuel Pump Control Module 170014p200
Old May 17, 2014 | 08:41 PM
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There are 2 on-line places for you to consider for the control module:

Nissan parts Zone $192.47 + s&h

Courtesy Nissan $191.25 + s&h

I have never really understood what that control module does exactly. Based on the price, I would go get a junkyard module first since you don't really know if it is bad.

Changing the fuel filter is always a good idea. I think it is recommended to be replaced every 60k miles. But usually a plugged fuel filter causes problems with higher engine rpm's, not starting or idling. I would change the fuel pressure regulator before I changed the control module.

P0130 -see page 139 Nissan service manual, section EC
P0136 -see page 149 Nissan service manual, section EC

The P0180 come from a sensor mounted on the fuel tank sending unit. Unless you had this code before replacing the fuel pump, I wonder if you somehow damaged the sensor or broke the wire going to it.

This is a close up of the end of the sending unit. The dark thing all the way an the right is the gasoline temperature sending unit. This can cause a P0180 check engine light if the temperature of the gasoline is too something.

The silver piece to the left of the temperature sensor is the low fuel sensor for the light in the dash. It has little holes in it so the gasoline can get inside of it, but that's all I can tell you.


Last edited by DennisMik; May 17, 2014 at 08:48 PM.
Old May 17, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #8  
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Dude did you reset the check engine light when you installed the new fuel pump control module, if you didnt do that first because that code comes up when you unattach the wire from the assembly. Theres probably nothing wrong with the fuel pump assembly you just need t erase all your codes and then see if it comes back.
Old May 19, 2014 | 10:21 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by ajitab
.....
What should I do next:

Change the Fuel Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator
.....

YES. Do those 2, especially if you've never done them before.
Old May 19, 2014 | 06:25 PM
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Thanks for the reply. DennisMik thanks for the link to the service manual. I have never bought anything from a junkyard. If I want to get the Fuel Pump COntrol module then I would need to figure out how to remove it first. Will try to find information.
Old May 19, 2014 | 06:54 PM
  #11  
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FPR is the cause of not holding pressure. Replace the fuel filter just to prevent debris from getting to injectors if it was never replaced.
Old May 20, 2014 | 12:04 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ajitab
Thanks for the reply. DennisMik thanks for the link to the service manual. I have never bought anything from a junkyard. If I want to get the Fuel Pump Control module then I would need to figure out how to remove it first. Will try to find information.
So you're going to do the fuel pump control module first, before the FPR and fuel filter? In situations like this where you don't know for sure what the problem is, replace the cheapest and easiest stuff 1st.

You will have to forgive DennisMik. His advice is invaluable. Sometimes, though, he talks like he's having a conversation with a NASA space shuttle engineer

If you look inside his reply, he did say this..........

Originally Posted by DennisMik
.....

Changing the fuel filter is always a good idea. I think it is recommended to be replaced every 60k miles. But usually a plugged fuel filter causes problems with higher engine rpm's, not starting or idling. I would change the fuel pressure regulator before I changed the control module.

........
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