Changing rear valve cover gasket and was having a hard time connecting the rear coolant hoses on the bottom of the intake manifold smh. What purpose do They serve if any at all? Can I just connect them with a t- fitting or elbow? Will it harm the engine if They are not connected to the manifold?

 

Bypass it! That damn u shaped hose drove me postal! It only cools the egr tube port

 

Yea that u shaped hose is driving me crazy smh. Gonna put it all back togather in the morning. Gotta go By pep boys or autozone and get a t-fitting so i can bypass it. But it wont harm the egr system By doing that.

 

Actually it is quite simple to re-route the hose to bypass the U shaped plenum hose. Just follow the hoses from the coolant pipes through the throttle body and you'll see how easy it is to bypass the plenum.

I stopped by my local parts store and got a couple feet of some high pressure hydraulic fluid cooling hose that works up to 400 degrees that is an exact fit for rerouting the line.

I made some pictures of the process I used to bypass it on my 99 model. I'll find them and post tonight.

The car runs great with the bypass.

 

Here's a picture of the hose I used to bypass the Plenum (a.k.a. UIM) U shaped EGR hose.

I found some heavy duty hydraulic fluid cooling line hose that is supposed to carry transmission fluid up to 400 degrees. The walls in this type of hose are thicker than standard parts store cooling line hose. It fits perfectly and it works with standard Nissan hose clamps.

I ran a long piece of hose from the starting point in the picture below to the EGR. The other hoses in and out of the throttle body and EGR were left intact.

I took a small piece of old heater hose insulator from an old Q45 hose and wrapped the area when it rests against the standard heater hose bracket and wrapped it with silicone fusion tape since it protects up to 400 degrees and does not use glue. Then I used a couple of zip ties to hold the bypass hose next to the heater hose.

The smaller hose in the picture below (between the two heater hose) is the bypass hose.



Here's a picture of the bypass hose as it connects with the EGR.

 

Ok i dont know if I can do all of that but I will see

 

I had the same problem, a method you can try is connect the hose that is closest to the fire wall first so the upper part of the hose is dangling freely, then spray some lube applicator on the nipple of UIM before you mount it in place. So it can easily slip on even with the clamp on it.

 

Here are some pictures of my 99 model Throttle Body and EGR coolant hoses without looping through the UIM's U-Shaped hoses.

NOTE: Since I only have 99 models, I only have pictures with the 99 model's electric EGR.

Basically you are making a loop with the small coolant hoses in the first picture (as shown on the left), that connect to:
1) head crossover coolant supply pipe (Coolant Pipe Hose 1) and
2) heater coolant supply pipe (Coolant Pipe Hose 2) that loops through the
3) Throttle Body and EGR.

Throttle Body Hose 1 to Coolant Pipe Hose 1




Throttle Body Hose 2 to EGR Hose 1



EGR Hose 1 (Left) - EGR Hose 2 (Right)



EGR Hose 2 to Coolant Pipe Hose 2

 

Well I finished the job yesterday about 2pm had to wait for the rain to stop. I managed to get the u- shaped hose back on By tilting the bottom of the intake and putting that hose on first, I dont no why it was so difficult to get that hose on This time. The first time was not as hard. But CS_AR i will keep your method in mind just in case i run into a problem in the future, but the egr on the 95 is the old style. I resealed rear valve cover gasket put sealant on both sides, let it sit overnight, changed oil, dropped oil pan cleaned it out, new pickup tube, k&n oil filter filled up with gas and took a little trip.

 

I bypassed the TB and EGR years ago. Just loop or cap the lines on the coolant log, high lighted in green.

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