http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1995-2002-Nissan-Maxima-3-0L-V6-VQ30DE-Stainless-Steel-Headers-Header-/251362745985?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMaxima&hash=item3a86631e81&vxp=mtr
Should I buy these or leave them stock, I have a rigged set of obx headers that I need to switch out to pass emissions. What are your suggestions? Thanks.

 

So is your ride stock or you have OBX headers on there? And if u have OBXs and want to get these that would be going backwards since the OBXs is a better design for flow and HP I believe...

 

Long tube>shorties.

Don't buy IMO.

 

Im just looking to get rid of my check engine light because the obx headers make cel 0702 and 0703 come on, they wont let me pass emissions. I was just wondering if these are okay to buy or should I get oem headers off a junk car.

 

Get the headers off another. These dont use the crush gaskets like the stock - just the aluminum(?) style that comes with it and there is no guarantee everything will fit up perfectly with these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-95-99-MAXIMA-3-0-V6-A32-VQ30DE-STAINLESS-FLEX-EXHAUST-PIPE-MANIFOLD-HEADER-/400729604773?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1995%7CModel%3AMaxima&hash=item5d4d5882a5&vxp=mtr

 

Thank you for your input, it is greatly appreciated.

 

I don't understand how nobody stated the obvious easiest solution. Fix the cel which is easy. Either use anifoulers or 02 sims.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...703-codes.html

So if you can buy nice new 02's (oxygen sensors) and then do some reading and see if you need 02 simulators.

 

DO it! Get them! And let us know, how it fits!!!

 

Replace primary O2s only and check the condition of your main cat....replace if necessary.

 

If you're catalytic convertor is no good then you will have this issue and also if you're oxygen sensors in the exhaust are bad then you will have this issue. If your catalytic convertor is no good then it will ruin your oxygen sensors and you will have this issue. Replace 02's, clear codes, see what happens. Drive 100 miles to reset the emissions computer and see what happens. You might not need 02 simulators. Post a pic of the cat and sensors if you can't tell.

 

on fixing CEL and keep the headers

I swear every time I see these threads with emissions issues it makes me want to move to West Virginia and get straight pipes and open headers FTMFW...

ZERO emissions laws there hahaha

 

I was gonna buy these, only because I need the Y Pipe, and figured I'd throw on the headers as well since it came with it. I'd hope they would fit properly.

 

Just move to any smog exempt part of Arizona ,, un-incorperated .... farm land ..

 

I heard you can just get a p.o box that is in a out of emissions area, and just register the vehicle to that p.o box address.

 

 

It's not that simple. You have to live there too. If it was we'd all have open headers...

 

I enjoy the response on this, ill buy the first option because it seems to come with gaskets. The reason why i want ot get rid of my obx headers is because the man who created my y-pipe, I had to get a custom y-pipe, did a crumby job.

++ Ive never seen any posts or threads with headers and the y-pipe from ebay and hopefully it will get rid of my cel codes.

+++do oxygen sensors matter with location on the y-pipe?

 

They fit fine.
I put a pair on last fall, my flex pipe was rusted out, everything bolted up ok.
Only word of advice, when bolting the y pipe on, get all the bolts on the Y hand tight first. It has to be better than going back to stock.

 

That's the golden rule to any and everything during assembly!!!! How's the performance? I was interested in trying them as well thinking it would be better than the OEM exhaust manifold and ypipe flow wise!

 

 

Not too sure how it rates over stock, as my 02 sensors were shot and replaced at the same time the headers and y was. It was not very drivable the way it was. Front bank 02 was dead, as soon as the car warmed up, it was running super rich and dumping gas in the front 3.
Looking at the factory manifolds and these next to each other, I don't see how these can be any worse. At the very least it would be as good as stock, plus the gains of the better flowing y pipe. I'm happy I have them and have no plans of swapping out for OBX or other long tube ones. Just too much work to do the first time. Added bonus of these is if you cannot get the rear manifold off, the y pipe will still bolt on.

 

Really that's good in a way! So are you running an OEM exhaust on the rear and the tubular header on the front? If I decide to go that route I'll wrap the hell out the the tubular headers to reduce the under hood temps and to make it better for all the plastic items near it. This is really good to hear that they actually fit! There's so many people that have tried eBay headers and experienced fitment issues....Not bad for $215....I would've reused my OEM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets and used SCE copper gasket @ the ypipe and header flange so if I ever had to drop it again the copper SCE is reuseable....

 

What makes you think that swapping out one set of headers for another will fix your CEL?

+1 to fixing the CEL, changing out the headers wont do a thing.

 

 

Buddy has a house in WV. The address is either a PO. Box or a Rural Route LOL whatever they call it, it's extremely awesome. I've been asking him to let me "live" there for a long time and have my cars registered there.

He's a lucky SOB, has a natural gas pipeline running thru his property and gets free gas for life, the whole house is powered from this. Also no emissions for cars, and all his cars are straight piped, blacked out limo style windows all around, black license plate covers, etc. I can't believe it's legal, but it is and there is a reason they call WV "Wild & Wonderful"

I'm jealous as can be of this stuff


Anyway back to OP, +1 on new headers not getting rid of your CEL.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finkle

Not too sure how it rates over stock, as my 02 sensors were shot and replaced at the same time the headers and y was. It was not very drivable the way it was. Front bank 02 was dead, as soon as the car warmed up, it was running super rich and dumping gas in the front 3.
Looking at the factory manifolds and these next to each other, I don't see how these can be any worse. At the very least it would be as good as stock, plus the gains of the better flowing y pipe. I'm happy I have them and have no plans of swapping out for OBX or other long tube ones. Just too much work to do the first time. Added bonus of these is if you cannot get the rear manifold off, the y pipe will still bolt on.

I must have gotten an off set, I was doing the upper oil pan today and before putting my crossmember back I pulled out the ypipe and tried to line it up. With the rear set on the cat, and the front on the stock manifold, there was no way it would connect to the rear manifold, the ypipe is too short and a bit of a tilt to it.

Im wondering if the front header is perhaps shorter and allows for the ypipe to rise and connect with the rear?

also did you use any permatex or sealant on the gaskets included with the header/ypipe?

 

I was able to get the rear one off. At first it was going to take longer than I had to get the rear heat shield off (the hardest part of the whole thing.) I ended up bending it in half and hammering it out the bottom. Once thats done, the rest isn't too bad. Before I decided to go for it, I lined up the y pipe with the factory manifold in the rear, looked like it would fit fine.

I'm running both headers, y, high flow cat, 2.5" to duals in the back. I put a long resonator on (30 something inches) and 22" shell turbo mufflers. Sounds nice and quiet.

 

I didn't go as far to bolt them on to the factory manifold. It looked like it would bolt on, but I was quite tired of laying on the ground at that point. I recall reading a long thread about it working on this forum, same story a few years back, guy couldn't get the rear one off, not sure if it was bolts or, EGR issues, (I cut mine off and sealed it up).

I didn't put anything on it, just the cheapo gaskets they gave me. Wasn't planning on it, forgot to get good ones. Torqued the header bolts normal, and torqued the hell out of the y pipe bolts. I do not ever want to take it down.

 

Good info - thank you. Ive read the other write up, ran into the same issues with that heatshield. Sat and looked at all the things that would be removed to make it "easier" to get that shield out... like pulling the axle. Really would be best o remove the rear mount bracket, but i cant figure out how to get the two top bolts out. I havent even thought about the egr stuff!

 

That's crazy....why not just add a dual O2 sim????

 

This just might work considering he lives in IL and they don't do the sniffer test for emissions, they just plug in to the OBDII port to do their checking. Then again, it may not work if they actually look at live data for the O2 sensors...

 

They would still see the heaters....and the live data from the O2 sim would fool them as well! It's worth a try!!!

 

Try anti-foulers?

 

Arent anti-foulers and O2 sims the same thing?

 

Nope.

 

Nope. Anti-foulers are spark plug spacers used to space out the 02 sensor in the pipe so it doesn't sense as much. And 02 simulators are little electronic devices, little box that mimics the normal operation of a oxygen sensor, hence the name 02 simulator. A 02 sensor heats up upon start up and then it sends a voltage signal out during operation. So if you know basic electronics you can make something to send a false signal simulating factory oem operation. Just like the knock sensor resistor trick. You are tricking the computer to read the resistor that you shoved in there. So it gets a proper operation signal.