I've been doing a lot of work to the car as parts wear out. With 120k miles on the car, and 60k of those on Eibachs, the shocks were blown. It was time to either replace with factory units, or upgrade to coils. After cost comparison, the answer was simple.

I went with the BC coils, Swift spring upgrade, 10k front, 8k rear.
The coils were $995, and the swift upgrade was $320, for $1315 total.

The install was easy and very straight forward. If installed as they arrived, it would have been about 1" lower than the eibachs.

I still need to adjust my ride height and adjust my dampers (next weekend) but am very happy so far. I currently have them adjusted to the same height as I was before the install.

New vs old suspension.

 

How is the ride? Any clunk noises?

 

The ride is definitely stiffer than before. During rough roads I feel everything. It isn't quantitative, but it feels 'twice' as stiff as eibachs, with my dampers set 1/3 of stiffness setting.

I had a few cluncks as my rear spring cup adapters found where they wanted to sit, and settled in.

I have lowered almost an inch in the rear since the install, just from settling in.
The fronts have dropped about 1/4" since Saturday.

 

Soooooo �� or ��

 

In for pics!

You sure have been busy with the upgrades

 

As it sits now:

 

Are those 20s? Looks awesome bro

 

Yes, 20x9 et30

 

Any spacers?

 

Another picture.


Nope. And it is just under flush with the fender.
Running 255/35/20.
With eibachs, the tire would rub the fender lip on large bumps...now it doesn't.

 

wish i got the swift springs when i first installed. all i hear is good things about em

 

Hey MD,

No rubbing because of the spring rate you have 10,000(f) and 8000(r)? Thanks...


-Joe

 

I probably wouldn't have rubbed with the standard 7/7 setup.
My old shocks/struts were blown, which led to the rubbing.

 

When I had mine first installed a few days after the rear's settled like yours.
I understand on where you're coming from on bumpy road, oh boy do you ever feel it. lol..

I'm going to order the rear extenders, as it is a ***** getting a hand up the to adjust the setting. My installed left them in the middle, but I think I will adjust them as the same as the fronts (ie six clicks from the middle - to the soft side)

 

Mine are currently four from the middle, towards soft.
Or, 20/32 from full stiff.

 

What would the difference be if the Swift spring specs were the following?
front: 11k
rear: 12k

 

Even stiffer ride.
Would only recommend if you are planning on driving as low as the coils allow, but I doubt it would really be enjoyable. I know one member on here runs 12k front and rear.

 

I have 10k springs (not swift springs though). I think that's too stiff personally. 11-12k starts sounding borderline crazy to me.

 

That's what I thought. Thank you!

 

 

Everything stays in the same place. The shock bodies are height adjustable, and the spring cup perches are height adjustable in the rear control arms.

 

What have you guys done to keep your camber specs in the green with coilovers?

 

Camber bolts in front and the SPC rear camber arms from a 350Z in the rear.
I'm still running at -2 camber because the holes weren't widened in the rear.
I could go to 0 camber, but the toe would be off. Bad toe in will wear a tire a lot faster than a little extra negative camber, and green is -1.8.

 

Where did you order your Swift springs from?

 

It was an optional upgrade from the vendor.

 

Why did you do different spring rates for front and rear (with stiffer springs in the front)? I'm just wondering because I've seen another guy do 11k front and 12k rear (where he made it stiffer for the rear).

 

More weight is up front, so it should have equal to or great strength springs than the rear.
The exception is some true racing applications.
The long hand for the spring rates is kg per mm. So my fronts are 10kg per mm compression. This also works out to 610lbs per inch.
The car is front weight biased and going over bumps is going to load the front suspension more than the rear. Suspension geometry also plays a role in what spring rates are needed. Where a 10k is stiff for me, it is considered a soft spring in the 240/drift scene.

The 'factory' setup is 8k all the way around, but a few people mentioned that they thought the front was too soft for riding low and the rubbed over bumps because of it.
I didn't want to find out how true that was and a 10k spring seemed to fit the bill.

 

Great information. Thank you!

 

After 10 months now, how has the ride of the Swift springs been for you? Would you recommend anything different from the 10k front and 8k rear setup?

 

My wife says it is too stiff, but I think it is great.
I would not do anything differently if I did it again.

It is definitely on the sporty to rougher side when compared with a true commuter car, but I did a 6 hour drive two weeks ago with no complaints.