relocating battery
relocating battery
Doing it to make room for the turbo.
2 guage wire, battery box,and a fuse amp right?
Got to make room for this.
https://i.imgur.com/TKk5SPA.jpg
2 guage wire, battery box,and a fuse amp right?
Got to make room for this.
https://i.imgur.com/TKk5SPA.jpg
Have you thought about taking that to a custom exhaust shop to mandrel bend a duplicate to install some nice clean pipe. Looks like a few spots by those welds may give future leaks but ofcoarse thats just a suggestion. As for the battery cable 0 ga would be a good option too.
Have you thought about taking that to a custom exhaust shop to mandrel bend a duplicate to install some nice clean pipe. Looks like a few spots by those welds may give future leaks but ofcoarse thats just a suggestion. As for the battery cable 0 ga would be a good option too.
Na I'm going to clean it up n spread htx. Then wrap it.
you maybe able to fit a honda battery on the passenger side with a custom hold down and no wiper fluid reservoir. makes going to the track easier than in the trunk. you can cut the original terminal, join to new cable with bold and tape it all up real nice, and add a new ground , pretty simple. no fuse necessary if you do it cleanly and route the wires well
you maybe able to fit a honda battery on the passenger side with a custom hold down and no wiper fluid reservoir. makes going to the track easier than in the trunk. you can cut the original terminal, join to new cable with bold and tape it all up real nice, and add a new ground , pretty simple. no fuse necessary if you do it cleanly and route the wires well
I spent a lot of time/effort relocating my battery within the engine bay. I know most people just relocate but for me having the battery in the bay was not negotiable. I'm glad I did the extra work to keep it in the bay
I don't remember how Brad set that up but he might have just had the one bung and only swapped in a wideband during tuning.
I don't remember how Brad set that up but he might have just had the one bung and only swapped in a wideband during tuning.
Also, the Innovate has the capability of simulating your narrow band 02, so if you set it up this way you don't NEED your normal 02 sensor. Brad might have done something along those lines on his setup too
In that case he was almost certainly simulating the narrowband 02. IIRC the yellow wire on the Innovate is for the narrowband simulator. Either that or the brown. You'd have to check the literature because I don't remember for certain
Ill check it out as soon as i order the wideband
Heck if I know. I changed my K constant and whatnot in Nistune. I also changed the MAF settings. I didn't even try to run it before making those basic changes in Nistune.
Your injectors are quite a bit smaller than mine. I wouldn't be shocked if your car starts with the 370cc's, but that's just a wild guess. I really have no firm guesstimate either way. I'm not sure how your stock ECU would like the Z32 MAF. You might have a better chance getting it to run with the stock MAF in place until you get Nistune. But again, that's just a guess on my part. Since I didn't try, I don't know for sure.
However, even if you get it to run, I would definitely not drive it around indefinitely "for a while" without at least a rudimentary tune. Absolutely stay out of boost if you're going to attempt to drive it that way "for a while". And at a minimum monitor your AFR's via your gauge continuously as you drive around.
I can drive my car all around town/normally and stay out of boost entirely. But that's apples and oranges to your car because I don't know how your spool characteristics are.
Your injectors are quite a bit smaller than mine. I wouldn't be shocked if your car starts with the 370cc's, but that's just a wild guess. I really have no firm guesstimate either way. I'm not sure how your stock ECU would like the Z32 MAF. You might have a better chance getting it to run with the stock MAF in place until you get Nistune. But again, that's just a guess on my part. Since I didn't try, I don't know for sure.
However, even if you get it to run, I would definitely not drive it around indefinitely "for a while" without at least a rudimentary tune. Absolutely stay out of boost if you're going to attempt to drive it that way "for a while". And at a minimum monitor your AFR's via your gauge continuously as you drive around.
I can drive my car all around town/normally and stay out of boost entirely. But that's apples and oranges to your car because I don't know how your spool characteristics are.
without having done the math I'd go 1/0awg, but you will probably be ok with 2awg but you'll need to calculate the load and distance to be sure.
personally i find most of the battery boxes to be really flimsy. I'd grab a mount out of a BMW in the junk yard and use that, plus the batteries in that group range will have vent tube ports. Then just get creative making trunk panels to hide the battery if you are still going for a completed daily build
personally i find most of the battery boxes to be really flimsy. I'd grab a mount out of a BMW in the junk yard and use that, plus the batteries in that group range will have vent tube ports. Then just get creative making trunk panels to hide the battery if you are still going for a completed daily build
I've had my battery in the trunk for years. I actually used old 4ga amp power wire. Have never had an issue. Though mines not the average setup. Do not drive your car on the 370cc without nistune. Just asking for it. Will be extremely rich. I've started my car stock ecu when I had 370cc just to test a ecu. Afr. We're in the 10s at idle. Vg has 180 cc stock vs ve 270cc. Z32 maf needs nistune. If you have a adjustable fpr you might be able get away with turning base fuel pressure down. For example stock 270cc rated at 43.5 psi. 370cc turned down to 23 psi will make the 370cc flow around 270cc. I still don't recommend driving like this. Works to move around shop etc. Plain in simple wait for nistune as even with 6 psi you need to adjust timing maps.
I've had my battery in the trunk for years. I actually used old 4ga amp power wire. Have never had an issue. Though mines not the average setup. Do not drive your car on the 370cc without nistune. Just asking for it. Will be extremely rich. I've started my car stock ecu when I had 370cc just to test a ecu. Afr. We're in the 10s at idle. Vg has 180 cc stock vs ve 270cc. Z32 maf needs nistune. If you have a adjustable fpr you might be able get away with turning base fuel pressure down. For example stock 270cc rated at 43.5 psi. 370cc turned down to 23 psi will make the 370cc flow around 270cc. I still don't recommend driving like this. Works to move around shop etc. Plain in simple wait for nistune as even with 6 psi you need to adjust timing maps.
I've decided to wait till i get nistune
I've had my battery in the trunk for years. I actually used old 4ga amp power wire. Have never had an issue. Though mines not the average setup. Do not drive your car on the 370cc without nistune. Just asking for it. Will be extremely rich. I've started my car stock ecu when I had 370cc just to test a ecu. Afr. We're in the 10s at idle. Vg has 180 cc stock vs ve 270cc. Z32 maf needs nistune. If you have a adjustable fpr you might be able get away with turning base fuel pressure down. For example stock 270cc rated at 43.5 psi. 370cc turned down to 23 psi will make the 370cc flow around 270cc. I still don't recommend driving like this. Works to move around shop etc. Plain in simple wait for nistune as even with 6 psi you need to adjust timing maps.
You just made my life easier. Thanks
Here is a link for wire gauge size. It goes up to 200 amps. But I don't know what the amp draw is on the starter.
15 feet of wire carrying 200 amps needs to be 4 gauge
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm
15 feet of wire carrying 200 amps needs to be 4 gauge
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm
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