Hood release cable loose all of a sudden!
Hood release cable loose all of a sudden!
It still works, but barely so it doesn't seem broken.
The handle pulls forward pretty much out of the pocket. With the hood open, pushing the handle all the way to "closed", at the latch, the cable barrel extends a good three inches beyond the metal arm it will move when the handle is pulled. Hope that makes sense.
So, is there someway to adjust the cable to make it tighter?
Thanks all!
The handle pulls forward pretty much out of the pocket. With the hood open, pushing the handle all the way to "closed", at the latch, the cable barrel extends a good three inches beyond the metal arm it will move when the handle is pulled. Hope that makes sense.
So, is there someway to adjust the cable to make it tighter?
Thanks all!
Well, I figured out what is wrong and now need to replace the hood release cable.
Just infront of the battery, under the radiator support the cable runs to the latch. Right there, the plastic sleeve is shredded and the metal grommet on right there is tearing through heading back towards the battery.
Total bummer, but no car payment
Just infront of the battery, under the radiator support the cable runs to the latch. Right there, the plastic sleeve is shredded and the metal grommet on right there is tearing through heading back towards the battery.
Total bummer, but no car payment
one day I'll stay listening
op listen to this advice, and don't pay someone to replace that cable
But my parents taught me "buy what you need and save the rest for SOME of what you want" and I learned it too.
Just replaced the Max's radiator too. I think next is the belt tensioner that whistles only at idle.
Yep. No car payment after 2000 (for the one owner Impala SS) except when we had two years for wife's used 2004 Cavalier from 2007-9. Those loans seemed like a good idea to boost our credit score, but didn't really help. No credit cards sonce 1991, bank money and pay cash for everything. I am very lucky in the sense. 45 and I could drop the dough for a new car and not hurt from it.
But my parents taught me "buy what you need and save the rest for SOME of what you want" and I learned it too.
But my parents taught me "buy what you need and save the rest for SOME of what you want" and I learned it too.
save your $, Buy ur NEEDS, Save rest for some of the things you WANT but DON'T spend it ALL, Keep money on the side for Repairs. Don't buy what you cannot afford. I am able to get my Wants cause of the saved money, Remember..buying your wants keeps you satisfied and alive, but be smart about the purchase!
Last edited by JoshG; Jun 9, 2015 at 09:14 PM.
Update.
Got the replacement cable a week ago and just today got tme to put it in. Takk about a PITA.
The issue is the cable runs between the wheel well cover and the inner fender. This means you need to jack up thr car, take off the tire and then wheel well cover. I thought i could just partial remove the cover by the firewall, but it appears that near where the battery is, the cable is held by a loop. Which is preventing me from pulling the old cable with a fishline attached back through to the passenger compartment.
Oh well, more work tomorrow after I get the ImpalaSS out of the garage and the Maxima lifted up...
Got the replacement cable a week ago and just today got tme to put it in. Takk about a PITA.
The issue is the cable runs between the wheel well cover and the inner fender. This means you need to jack up thr car, take off the tire and then wheel well cover. I thought i could just partial remove the cover by the firewall, but it appears that near where the battery is, the cable is held by a loop. Which is preventing me from pulling the old cable with a fishline attached back through to the passenger compartment.
Oh well, more work tomorrow after I get the ImpalaSS out of the garage and the Maxima lifted up...
All fixed. Since there's really no detail on this, just "pull the old out. Fish the new in", here's some better info.
1. You will need to lift the car, take of driver's tire, remove wheel well shield.
2. Make sure you have replacement retainer pins. I had to run to the parts store and hope that what they had worked. Fortunately, Dorman part number 799-100 5/16" pins work. I used 6 of 15 in the pack. They do not look like the factory installed, but they work fine.
3. Don't worry about attaching a fish line. With the shield off, it's not needed. Just make sure you look under the hood and remember where the cable runs from between the latch and fender hole.
4. 10mm socket with a 6' extension, #2 phillips head screw driver, 6' medium tip needle nose pliers and a 1/4' flat head.
5. Nissan part 65620-40U05 is needed for my 1995 manufactured in 1994. There is another part number, so make sure to use your VIN. The parts are different.
Steps.
1. Lift car, support with stand, remove tire.
2. Open hood and release the lever springs with needle nose (don't worry about the manual lever spring). I remove the grill and whole latch assembly because mine was really grubby and needed two decades of crud cleaned off. Pop loose the cable tip and sheath end.
3. Look under the radiator cross support, but above the AC radiator. There is a whitish plastic clip you will need to hold still while pulling the cable out towards the battery. Sadly, that clip cannot be removed with the AC radiator in-place.
3. Remove wheel well shield. There's a hand full of phillips screws and those stupid brittle push pins. Once the screws & pins are out, push the shield towards the engine to release it from the clips the screw came out of. Don't worry about breaking the pins as you bought replacements...RIGHT?
4. Loosen the dang factory installed/mounted zipties. I had to use a flat head to "release" the locking tab and then a body panel tool to open up the ziptie some. I did not remove the ziptie or open it completely.
5. Under the dash, use the socket to remove the two nuts. Slide the bracket down and push towards the firewall to release the handle assemble.
6. Pull towards you. The cable should start to pull out. There's two rubber boots that should come through too. The new cable has those installed already.
7. Feed the new cable in and through the route the old cable came out through. Make sure to go through the zipties and the white clip above the AC radiator. You will have to mess around to get the smaller rubber boot through the insulation and seated in the metal of the firewall. The large rubber disc just cover that area. Insert the new assembly and bolt it in. Do this before putting the cable/wire tips into the latch.
8. Insert the cable tip and wire tip into the latch. I did this with the latch off the car and it was really easy.
9. Put the wheel well shield back in, clip it in with the new pins, etc.
10. Put tire back on, torque to specs, lower, clean up.
Here's a pic of the zipties I mention.
1. You will need to lift the car, take of driver's tire, remove wheel well shield.
2. Make sure you have replacement retainer pins. I had to run to the parts store and hope that what they had worked. Fortunately, Dorman part number 799-100 5/16" pins work. I used 6 of 15 in the pack. They do not look like the factory installed, but they work fine.
3. Don't worry about attaching a fish line. With the shield off, it's not needed. Just make sure you look under the hood and remember where the cable runs from between the latch and fender hole.
4. 10mm socket with a 6' extension, #2 phillips head screw driver, 6' medium tip needle nose pliers and a 1/4' flat head.
5. Nissan part 65620-40U05 is needed for my 1995 manufactured in 1994. There is another part number, so make sure to use your VIN. The parts are different.
Steps.
1. Lift car, support with stand, remove tire.
2. Open hood and release the lever springs with needle nose (don't worry about the manual lever spring). I remove the grill and whole latch assembly because mine was really grubby and needed two decades of crud cleaned off. Pop loose the cable tip and sheath end.
3. Look under the radiator cross support, but above the AC radiator. There is a whitish plastic clip you will need to hold still while pulling the cable out towards the battery. Sadly, that clip cannot be removed with the AC radiator in-place.
3. Remove wheel well shield. There's a hand full of phillips screws and those stupid brittle push pins. Once the screws & pins are out, push the shield towards the engine to release it from the clips the screw came out of. Don't worry about breaking the pins as you bought replacements...RIGHT?

4. Loosen the dang factory installed/mounted zipties. I had to use a flat head to "release" the locking tab and then a body panel tool to open up the ziptie some. I did not remove the ziptie or open it completely.
5. Under the dash, use the socket to remove the two nuts. Slide the bracket down and push towards the firewall to release the handle assemble.
6. Pull towards you. The cable should start to pull out. There's two rubber boots that should come through too. The new cable has those installed already.
7. Feed the new cable in and through the route the old cable came out through. Make sure to go through the zipties and the white clip above the AC radiator. You will have to mess around to get the smaller rubber boot through the insulation and seated in the metal of the firewall. The large rubber disc just cover that area. Insert the new assembly and bolt it in. Do this before putting the cable/wire tips into the latch.
8. Insert the cable tip and wire tip into the latch. I did this with the latch off the car and it was really easy.
9. Put the wheel well shield back in, clip it in with the new pins, etc.
10. Put tire back on, torque to specs, lower, clean up.
Here's a pic of the zipties I mention.
This needs to be a sticky in the "How To" section! I wish I saw this before I tried (and failed) it today, now its too dark outside. Will do it this way tomorrow morning. Hopefully I can fine those pins somewhere around me.
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