My cruise control,rear deforst,ower locks and ower windows went out
My cruise control,rear deforst,ower locks and ower windows went out
I was coming back home from Thanksgiving when my cruise control, power windows,powerlocks,and rear deforst doesnt work. I checked and replaced the fuse but it kees blowing out. Not sure what to do.Help
The fuse didn't blow right away. I rolled the windows up and down to see if that would fix it when I replaced the fuse. I noticed it had gone out again when I was driving the car a few minutes later. I tried to use the rear defroster when I noticed it had blow again.
The fuse blew the first time when I was driving on the highway. I hit a small bum and I noticed the cruise control had stopped working. Its the bottom fuse 7.5.
The fuse blew the first time when I was driving on the highway. I hit a small bum and I noticed the cruise control had stopped working. Its the bottom fuse 7.5.
That 7.5 amp fuse is fuse # 12. It supplies power to the BCM (Body Control Module) which in turn allows the windows, door locks, etc (all those things you mentioned plus some more that you haven't realized yet).
It is possible that the BCM itself is bad, but as JvG said, put in a new fuse and operate the windows, locks, etc one at a time and see when the fuse blows. If the fuse only blows when one specific accessory is used, that accessory has a problem. If the fuse blows with multiple accessories, then the BCM is bad.
What year is your car? There are differences with each year.
It is possible that the BCM itself is bad, but as JvG said, put in a new fuse and operate the windows, locks, etc one at a time and see when the fuse blows. If the fuse only blows when one specific accessory is used, that accessory has a problem. If the fuse blows with multiple accessories, then the BCM is bad.
What year is your car? There are differences with each year.
The names associated with the fuse are cryptic, but you can usually figure out what it means (i.e., D/LOCK means door locks). But those names are used elsewhere, specifically it is the name of a schematic. Sometimes this name is also in the alphabetical index section, IDX.
Once you look at the electrical schematic, you will then see the fuse.
You mentioned that the fuse blew when you are using the rear window defoster.
Experement..... process of elimination. You are trying to figure out which portion of the circuit has a problem.
So don't use the cruise control or the windows.
You might want to buy several of the 7.5 amp fuses.
Turn the electric defroster on. You might want to do this more than once. If the fuse lives, you can eliminate the defroster and then play with rolling only one window down, one at a time.
If the fuse lives, try another window. Till you know all four windows don't trip the fuse. Then the cruise control.
Going over a bump is interesting. Sometimes a corroded contact have intermittent contact. The bump appears to be the variable.
Experement..... process of elimination. You are trying to figure out which portion of the circuit has a problem.
So don't use the cruise control or the windows.
You might want to buy several of the 7.5 amp fuses.
Turn the electric defroster on. You might want to do this more than once. If the fuse lives, you can eliminate the defroster and then play with rolling only one window down, one at a time.
If the fuse lives, try another window. Till you know all four windows don't trip the fuse. Then the cruise control.
Going over a bump is interesting. Sometimes a corroded contact have intermittent contact. The bump appears to be the variable.
This is a common problem in these 4th gen maximas it is the cruse control on switch on the dash is is shorted out ant causes all sorts of problems and will keep blowing the #12 fuse i believe cant quite rember it it was #12 but anyway it a simple fix the switch pulls out with a little pry from a scruedriver and un plug the clip ive seen in a few the wiers burnt up in this case your on your own i had to fuger out how to by pass the swich
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