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99 i30 Intake Manifold Gasket suggestions

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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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99 i30 Intake Manifold Gasket suggestions

I recently have cleaned my throttle body and IACV and replaced the gaskets. After I finished bolting everything to spec, I started hearing another vacuum leak. I put my ear to the manifold and put my finger where I thought it might be and yup.. its the UIM gasket. I went to the dealer to ask for the UIM gasket and the LIM gaskets and a knock sensor and the total came to $386?!? I got out of there fairly quickly.

I see online that you can get felpro or other brands for under $30 but there are no reviews or anything regarding their quality. I looked into NWP spacers and found a knock sensor on ebay for $11 but are the spacers really worth $225 and I heard they don't work with a 00vi? What would you suggest and why? Are the cheap gaskets worth the time to put them in? I really would rather not have to do this again anytime soon. Also, would the spacers be compatible with a 3.5 once i swap?
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 11:43 AM
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Although the price is not high, I think you'll not find the Felpro upper plenum gasket to be a "cheap" piece.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...253&showTitle=
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:07 PM
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Victor Reinz and Beck/Arnley are also good. Made in Japan, and most likely reboxed OEM parts.

In addition, you can always search dealers online; many of them even sell on eBay.

For the knock sensor, I'd buy Hitachi. It's the actual OE part, about $40.
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:31 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions! I saw rockauto carried those brands but the hitachi knock sensor, is that the KNS0001? i found a couple from ebay for 52+, where did you find it for 40? Should I also replace the harness since Ill be in there anyway?
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:33 PM
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I'm running a FelPro zero issues I bought mine from Advanced Auto. At the time it was cheaper to by the two exhaust manifold gaskets and the UIM as a kit rather than the UIM by itself. Make sure you torque the UIM as per the pattern in the FSM.
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:38 PM
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+1 for AdvanceAuto Felpro here. If you order online use the TRT30 coupon code for 30% off on orders over $50. Every gasket in the pictures are by Felpro.

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Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by M in KC
I'm running a FelPro zero issues I bought mine from Advanced Auto. At the time it was cheaper to by the two exhaust manifold gaskets and the UIM as a kit rather than the UIM by itself. Make sure you torque the UIM as per the pattern in the FSM.
Thanks for the help! Did you use any RTV or permatex when installing the gasket?
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CS_AR
+1 for AdvanceAuto Felpro here. If you order online use the TRT30 coupon code for 30% off on orders over $50. Every gasket in the pictures are by Felpro.



Awesome!! Thank you. Looks like ill be getting felpro from advanceAuto lol. Any suggestions on a knock sensor like the one on ebay for $11? Or the Hitachi KNS0001 for 52?
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:55 PM
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I bought a fel-pro set on Amazon for around 30 dollars.
Worked just fine. I bought the knock sensor for around 40 bucks there too.

Since the manifold needs to come off anyway, remove your injectors and have them cleaned and rebuilt. They like to break a seal at the tip called a pintle cap.

If you dont service the injectors while you are in there anyway, you will be removing the manifold again. Maybe more than once.
Might as well replace those buried hoses too. Gasoline and coolant. Much easier now than later.
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 12:56 PM
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No need for gasket sealer. Just clean well and install.
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bloodthirstyemu
Thanks for the suggestions! I saw rockauto carried those brands but the hitachi knock sensor, is that the KNS0001? i found a couple from ebay for 52+, where did you find it for 40? Should I also replace the harness since Ill be in there anyway?
Yes, the KNS0001

Rock Auto has the best price, with promo code 3965904736048015 (enter it in the "how did you hear about us" box on the cart page)

I didn't replace my harness, and it still works perfect.

Last edited by maximaxi; Jan 7, 2016 at 03:25 PM.
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 06:09 PM
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RTV should be used in the Valve Cover corners near the back of the timing chain cover. There is a section in the Field Service Manual (FSM) for how to use RTV. You only need enough for the corners that are recommended in the FSM. No need for it to be applied anywhere else.

IIRC the Felpro VC gasket set comes with a small tube of RTV for the corners.

We're seeing cases of injector pintle caps and o-rings that deteriorate with age. Basically leaking injectors cause uncontrollable flooding and it will cook your cats. So it is a good idea to get the injectors serviced with new screens, o-rings, and pintle caps when you have the UIM removed for Valve Covers or other gaskets.

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Last edited by CS_AR; Jan 7, 2016 at 06:13 PM.
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 09:33 PM
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Thanks for all the help! I have my order almost set but I saw injector o-rings on rockauto and was wondering if those should be replaced also while im in there? Are there any other gaskets while I'm at it? Ill be having my injector's rebuilt and cleaned while I have access to them now and I'm hoping after all of this I will have a steady idle and better gas mileage than 17.6mpg...
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 11:38 PM
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cs ar, you need to rebuild my vq, or give me yours!!
Old Jan 7, 2016 | 11:50 PM
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The injectors need far more than o rings.

get the injectors rebuilt at this time if at all possible

I used Injector RX in Houston. please at least look at their website.

they explain what's involved. The injectors will spray more evenly. this means less emissions and better mileage, and power.

Please do a search on this forum about pintile caps.

Please listen to CS_AR and myself. Unless you want to do this all again .soon.
Old Jan 8, 2016 | 12:03 AM
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My bad . I did not read that you already decided to have the injectors rebuilt.

I tried to edit my reply, but I was not able to.
Old Jan 8, 2016 | 10:52 AM
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No worries, Im just glad Ill be doing this right the first time thanks to everybody's input!
Old Jan 8, 2016 | 10:56 AM
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Refreshed injectors come with o-rings already mounted on the injector. No need to buy o-rings. When I get home from work, I'll post and show you some Hillman stainless socket head cap screws from Lowes or Ace Hardware that you'll want to replace the brass injector cap screws.
Old Jan 8, 2016 | 10:57 AM
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I want to replace my coolant and fuel lines and all oem clamps with worm clamps, any suggestions on brands? where to buy? and why?
Old Jan 9, 2016 | 06:46 AM
  #20  
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You may want to replace the injector cap and Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) brass Phillips head screws with some Socket Head Cap Screws

Injector Caps and the Fuel Pressure Regulator use M5 (size) 0.8 (pitch) x 16mm (length) with M5 lock washers.

I get Hillman Stainless Socket Head Screws from Lowe's or Ace Hardware.

I replaced all of the Phillips head screws associated with the fuel system in the picture below.

For my 4th gens, I actually like the Nissan (spring loaded) hose clamps. I've never had a problem with that type of clamp. However, I don't like the band type clamp that is on the Power Steering reservoir. I've replaced a number of those Nissan band type with shielded worm type that I get from NAPA.

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Last edited by CS_AR; Jan 9, 2016 at 06:56 AM.
Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:09 AM
  #21  
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Removing injector full fuel pressure?

Im in the middle of changing out all the manifold gaskets and knock sensor and I was told I should have my injectors rebuilt and cleaned. I planned on doing that but I realized after I got the manifold off i forgot to release the pressure in the fuel system. Can i still take out the injectors without having to put everything back together to lower the fuel pressure? Can i lower the fuel pressure without taking out the fuse and trying to start up the car? How much of a mess will this make if I take them out with full fuel pressure?
Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #22  
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How long has it been since the car was run. ?
You might have lost some pressure since then.

Otherwise, remove the negative cable from the battery. Don't want sparks now. I'd remove the hose clamps for the fuel supply, then remove the fuel line hoses from the injector rack. Use paper towels to absorb the gasoline.

Be sure to let the gasoline in the soaked towels evaporate.

Thanks for rebuilding the injectors. I'm one of the people who recommended servicing them. Full credit for this goes to CS-AR.
Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:37 AM
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Its been roughly 23 hours since last ran and yes, Thanks to you and CS-AR I won't have to do this all over as it is being done right the first time!
Old Jan 13, 2016 | 12:45 PM
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... or just pull a fuel filter hose ...
Old Jan 13, 2016 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink
... or just pull a fuel filter hose ...
My thoughts too... big towel over the filter... loosen a clamp... let it leak down slowly or persuade it by wiggling the hose. Wear goggles if you're safety oriented.
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