1996 I30


My trunk will not close, will not latch, and the light stays on and will drain the battery. While I was driving, random dash lights kept coming on. The ABS light, the airbag light, and the brake light. The clock display exhibited vignetting as well. The power windows were slower than usual. After I shut the car off, it would not start again. It cranked a couple times but that's it.


The alternator was replaced about a year ago, and the starter about 1.5 years ago. The battery is about 3 years old.



When I opened the trunk to get some jumper cables and the jump box, I was unable to close the trunk. Then I discovered the latch thing in the bumper is loose.I don't know how it secures to the body and how to reattach it.

 

The alternator should keep your battery charged while you're driving more than enough for your trunk light issue. Although that could drain a battery overnight. Auto stores can test both batteries and alternators if you take them off the car. Those lights coming on while driving tell us the battery or alternator is no good and the other symptoms are from this as well. I can't speak much to the trunk light issue but your battery is not being charged by the alternator while you're driving


I once replaced an alternator and 6months later the next went bad from my valve cover leaking oil onto it

 

Remove the trunk light bulb to temporarily solve one of your problems.

 

+1. Or disconnect the plug in the wiring harness which that bulb gets irs power from.

 

I'd like to add that the flickering lights were happening before I opened the trunk and couldn't close it.



That is, the trunk was closed when the problems started.



That orange connector runs to the bulb, right?

 

We don't have every single answer for you.

So disconnect that plug , tgen esee what don't work anymore. . Then you will know if it solved your problem or not.
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You have a problem with the charging system, mos likely the alternator is not working. Get a voltmeter and measure the battery without the engine running. It should be approximately 12.5 volts. If it is below 12 volts, maybe the battery is bad or maybe the alternator is not charging it.

Start the engine and measure the voltage at the battery. It should be 14.3 volts. If it is below 13.8 volts, the alternator is bad.

The only thing the trunk light being on all the time will do is run the battery down overnight. When the engine is running, the alternator (if good) will supplies all the power that is used by everything in the car.

 

*** UPDATE ***


The trunk light is still on, and the car started on the second try, after I kept my foot on the gas while starting.


I think I can rule out the battery, alternator, and starter, but the car does run very rough. The CEL is not on.

 

If you're driving and those lights come on and the car is losing electrical power like you said, there is something wrong with the charging system (battery, alternator, etc). With the car running and the accessory belt turning the alternator it could power all the lights on the car until it runs out of gas. You haven't ruled out anything and your symptoms are obvious it's something with the charging system your car isn't charging while it's running

 

During my "As the Alternator Turns" saga I determined that the main negative cable battery clamp would never tighten up enough on the battery post, having been over-torqued over its lifetime by frustrated Nissan mechanics.

I tried rigging it with a shim - that didn't do sh*t. I bought a new OEM negative cable and things went much better after that. This was AFTER I had discounted others' advice re: "look at your grounds".

So: look at your grounds. On the battery, on the block, two screws on top of the LIM (next to #1 injector).

Also: don't over-tighten the negative post clamp. If you look at it you'll see that if you keep torquing it down it will deform.

 

UPDATE


I was able to zip tie the striker bracket to the inside of the trunk. Also, the light does turn off now when thee trunk is closed


And I needed a battery and alternator.