95 Maxi has usual ignition switch problems but we have learned to live with that.Takes 4 or 5 turns of the key to start.If it sets for two or three days battery runs down.Battery a year old figured it had gone bad.Started this while in body shop for sheet metal replacement for rust.Nice car only 115k.Took it into local farm store today where we purchased battery assuming the battery had failed.Kept it on charger all night at 2 amps started right up.Farm store has full service shop but battery tested good.Mechanic suggested the switch might be sticking on even though it shuts off car causing draw.Well not trusting him altogether took it to Oreilys they tested the battery,alternator,starter all good.Rather than go thru the painful process of pulling fuse at a time wondered if anyone had an opinion on the switch theory.Didnt really make sense to me but thought I’d consult the experts.

 

To check for and narrow down the source of a short here's what I do: Park in a dark place or perform this procedure at night. Darkness is key. Start pulling fuses one at a time. Watch for small, faint electrical arc when the legs of the fuse make contact with the receptacle when reinstalling the fuse.

 

Frank, this does sound like an ignition switch issue.

The switch will cost about 30 dollars.

The job is easy to do. Will take less than an hour.
There are instructions in the How To Do It section.

I've had the switch fail 2 or 3 times during the 110k miles I've owned my car.

One concern. .... as recall, it's easier to do the job if the seat is unbolted and removed. I know that you have physical limitations.

Let's wait for reply's from other members.
It's time to buy the switch though.

Best wishes.

 

Just buy a new one. I just bought a new one yesterday from the Nissan dealership. It is buttery smooth with no slop in the switch. It's only 30.00. The old one was no longer smooth and it was rough. Mainly it had a lot of play in it where the car would still start but sometime the radio and clock wouldn't work. So buying a new one is the solution.

 

I had intermittent starting issue due to the bad ignition switch circuit. Put a new one in solved the problem..

 

I'd bet most of those that have had this problem have heavy key chains and torquing contributes significantly.

Lighten Up Fellas! LOL

 

Not really. It was the electronic part of the ignition fails. The physical hardware has been fine.

 

I believe that the heavy key clusters cause lots of back and forth movement in the lock portion.
The back and forth movement is transmitted to the electrical switch portion, causing it to wear out prematurely.

 

"A long time ago" the OEM BOSE head unit's cassette tape motor would continue to run under all conditions - draining the battery.

 

Can you hear the motor running?Gonna replace switch when the temp jumps up a little just wondered.

 

yes, it was possible to hear the tape transport motor running once knew what to listen for

 

Frank, you could test the possible draw through the stereo by removing it's fuse.

If your problem stops, it's the stereo.

If not, replace the ignition switch.

 

I did not have to remove the seat to replace my ignition switch. That made no sense to me. I had plenty of room. 168K on the old switch.

 

Was it burnt?

 

I appreciate all the input and may be the questions already been answered but does anyone think the switch could be causing the draw?

 

A defective switch could cause items to remain on while they should not be. For example through the contacts for the accessories position.

Your title for this post suggests that you thought the switch was the cause of parasitic draw. I'm saying that I agree with you.

We know that the switch needs to be replaced anyway. So you have nothing to lose. Perhaps you will solve both issues. We are talking about a 30 dollar part and an hour of your time, if you work slowly.

 

Thanks much!!