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Max not starting, getting no sound at all

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Old Aug 1, 2004 | 09:03 PM
  #1  
Avogadro's Avatar
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Max not starting, getting no sound at all

Sometimes I put my key in the ignition and turn my key. Nothing at all happens. no click, no anything. However, sometimes I'll hold it there for 10 seconds and it will finally start. Sometimes pushing in on the iginition switch seems to get it going. Sometimes moving my shifter back and fourth does it.

This doesn't seem to be an actual problem with the starter, because i had this changed about 6 months ago and the same thingw as happening when i replaced it. I thought the problem might've gone away, but it did not.

Couple questions:

I have not seen anything here in the forums to note any known issues with the ignition switch...could this be it?

Is it my neutral position switch?

is it the alarm immobilzer switch?

Or is it the Ignition switch?

I've seen problem flow charts on other issues that lend me to believe it's the neutral position switch, but any ideas?

Thanks

Pete
Old Aug 1, 2004 | 09:11 PM
  #2  
DAVE Sz's Avatar
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From: Chiiiii
Battery? What year is your car? If it's a 99 see if the security light is blinking or if it's on all the time when you put the key in.
Old Aug 1, 2004 | 09:38 PM
  #3  
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I get the SAME thing from time to time. The way I fix is I have to push the fuses in the fuse panel. I dunno why, just works for some reason. Maybe loose wires behind the fuse panel or something.
Old Aug 1, 2004 | 09:45 PM
  #4  
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Try swapping the ignition switch. I found out the hard way. It's the cheapest fix out of all possible options. Good luck!
Old Aug 1, 2004 | 10:18 PM
  #5  
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My new Max has the EXACT same problem. I am just now figuring out how to get it started. For me one thing that helps is the way that I put in the key. For me the hole in the key goes towards the top.

My dad can get it started the first try every time. But my Dad is very strong and he does it by just pushing in ridiculously forcefully as he turns the key that last notch. I know this can't be the solution because the lady who had it before me was not exactly a super-woman character so I'm going to call her tomorrow and ask her what the trick is. Because my dad didn't bother listening to her when she told him how to start it. I'll post an answer for you tomorrow and you can try it out on your max.

Personally, I'd get a remote-start system before I spend money getting a new ignition switch.
Old Aug 1, 2004 | 10:54 PM
  #6  
_ck69_'s Avatar
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Originally Posted by ionpcs
Personally, I'd get a remote-start system before I spend money getting a new ignition switch.
I only paid $50 for my ignintion switch, and that's in Canadian. For you guys.. it would probably be $35. Much cheaper than a remote starter.
Old Aug 2, 2004 | 12:12 AM
  #7  
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I know that the ignition switch would be much cheaper, but considering you'd be paying $35 dollars for the car to just start Like It Shoul Anyway... you might as well spend extra and get a nice feature that you can use often... well, I know I'd like to have remote start for the winter at least.
Old Aug 2, 2004 | 04:00 PM
  #8  
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All good points. i will check that security light (i have a 95). And i fear it was the ignition switch. I've tried screwing with the fuses and i get nothing from that. however i will try the key position thing as well. if not, a remote start seems in order. I would pay alittle more to get the nice feature.

Was it hard to replace the ignition switch?

Pete
Old Aug 2, 2004 | 08:03 PM
  #9  
MaxCefiro's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Avogadro
Sometimes I put my key in the ignition and turn my key. Nothing at all happens. no click, no anything. However, sometimes I'll hold it there for 10 seconds and it will finally start. Sometimes pushing in on the iginition switch seems to get it going. Sometimes moving my shifter back and fourth does it.

This doesn't seem to be an actual problem with the starter, because i had this changed about 6 months ago and the same thingw as happening when i replaced it. I thought the problem might've gone away, but it did not.

Couple questions:

I have not seen anything here in the forums to note any known issues with the ignition switch...could this be it?

Is it my neutral position switch?

is it the alarm immobilzer switch?

Or is it the Ignition switch?

I've seen problem flow charts on other issues that lend me to believe it's the neutral position switch, but any ideas?

Thanks

Pete
Is your car an automatic? If yes then it could be the PNP or linkage cable. This is usually the case if shifting the **** from one position to another does the trick. Usually this invovles a minor adjustment or calibration of the PNP. Often, it is just a loose linkage cable bolt/nut (located beside the inhibitor switch right under your intake scoop, beside your transaxle.

The immobiler and ignition switch are components least likely to malfuntion so have the PNP checked first. If someone tells you to replace it (PNP), don't. Just have it calibrated. The only time you replace it is if it can no longer be calibrated due to wear and tear (it usuallly lasts bet 10-15 years).

BTW, PNP = Park-Neutral Position switch = inhibitor switch = neutral position switch.

Hope that helps.
Old Aug 2, 2004 | 09:34 PM
  #10  
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That is the first thing that I came up with when I had this issue. It's the most likely thing to explain what's happening to me. I can't imagine the ignition switch going...but it is possible. The linkage cable goes for the PNP to where?

I'm glad u clarified PNP...electrical engineer here lol.

Thanks for the tip

Avogadro
Old Aug 2, 2004 | 10:04 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Avogadro
That is the first thing that I came up with when I had this issue. It's the most likely thing to explain what's happening to me. I can't imagine the ignition switch going...but it is possible. The linkage cable goes for the PNP to where?

I'm glad u clarified PNP...electrical engineer here lol.

Thanks for the tip

Avogadro

Ha! Now I feel better knowing I'm talking to an electrical engineer!

The linkage cable goes from your shift-**** to the transaxle. Usually the bolt that connects the cable to the eyelet gets loose. Check that. That gives the PNP a wrong position signal: NO START. The PNP is located across the eyelet and is somewhat below the battery. Unusual freeplay when you move the shift **** usually indicates a need to calibrate the PNP to match cable freeplay. It's advisable to inspect and retorque the cable before you adjust PNP.
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