Following my adventures with the Moog Inner Tie Rod locking tabs...I am having a MF b*tch time installing the new Infiniti OEM inner tie rod end bellows. I would appreciate advice on Technique / how to get it done.

I did grease the tie rod where the boot contacts it on the outside end (per the FSM) and I used transmission fluid as a lubricant on the larger, inside end. ALSO - although when installing this driver's side ITRE to the rack I had the steering wheel hard over to the right (moving the work closer to me), for installing the bellows I tuned the wheel back closer to center, so the length of the boot was "just right" on the ITRE grease/boot point and the rack rim...

Getting the larger, inner boot lip up and over the rack rim is a ***** - but I eventually got it all up and over. However, installing the OEM twist wire around the bellows ridge/rack rim seems like...well I just don't have the technique, or I'm not a little Japanese man working on the rack out of the car or...something. This is the driver's side, so I was twisting the wire loops counterclockwise (per the FSM)

TECHNIQUE: Have to keep the two loops of the wire on the rack rim proper (and not have the wire drift onto the first or second bellows elbow), all the while keeping both loops tight enough to put the mini screwdriver through both loops in a very tight space and then...MF I somehow managed to slip the boot OFF the rack trying to tighten it...F*CK!

So I eventually got the inner boot end up and over the rack again, and untwisted the OEM wire (who knows whether it will survive another install attempt)...and stopped for the night, and wrote this post.

WTF am I doing wrong here (besides "everything" i.e. trying to do it myself). Should I be using a locking band clamp (like was removed from the rebuilt rack) instead of the OEM wire?

If "wire" - where's the best place to locate the twisting screwdriver - 10 o'clock, or 4'clock (looking from the wheel side) ? At the 4 o'clock position you can't see the screwdriver as you're turning it...

Anyways, I FAILED to execute securing the bellows. I need to get this MF car put the F back together...and MF _again_, I was going to try to do the passenger's side inner tie rod end too (not failing yet but you know it will) before taking to alignment shop...

 

Not the answer you want but cable wraps work just fine and don't take any effort to install.

 

You're talking about "zip ties", right?

"What kind of zip ties" ?

What about the metal ones that are shown on the interwebs for other applications?

 

Plain old plastic zip ties.

 

I know you have more experience than I. But I’ve seen some pretty cheap zip ties in my day. Surely a particular zip tie is a Best Substitute?

Wouldn’t _anything_ plastic deteriorate in the harsh environment under the car?

Finally - is it just not possible to install the OEM wires with the rack on the car?

Thanks

 

bump

so everybody uses plastic zip ties on the inside inner tie rod boot ends ?

no one uses the oem wire?

or a metal clamp of any kind?

 

I've replaced the boot on a Toyota Corolla. I used the metal clamp. It's not easy to deal with. Kinda tricky. I was considering using large plastic zip ties.

the zip ties are affected by ultraviolet radiston from direct sunlight. Not much of that under the Maxima.

 

I picked these up at O’Reilly and will try them soon. I wish I was able to figure out how to use the OEM “wire twist” method...but life is too short.


Stainless zip ties

 

I bought a Moog dust boot for my max, and even though the photo on Rockauto showed metal clamps, it actually came with two plastic zip ties!

 

My Frontier has a metal spring clamp on the small end and a metal crimp clamp on the big end. I used a cable/zip tie on the big end because I don't have the crimping tool.

You could substitute a worm gear clamp or metal zip tie if you don't like plastic.

 

What crimping tool is that ?

Thanks

 

Something like in this discussion, http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=4748251

 

that's the kind of clamp that was on the rebuilt rack's boots

i wished i'd known these types of clamps were "a thing" before beginning this project - I would have bought the tools and clamps in advance.

I will stick with the stainless zip ties and hope for the best...

EDIT - tried the metal zip ties, they won't cinch flat / watertight. C-U-R-S-E-S

 

Where can I buy 10" long CV-boot style band clamps ?

I have once again made something that's supposed to be "easy" into "impossible".

I am unable to install the OEM wire correctly.
I do not want to use a plastic zip tie (I can always fall back to this)
A single regular metal zip tie won't clinch down correctly.

The aftermarket rack had a "CV-joint band clamp" installed on it - and I would be OK installing that (I have the tool courtesy NAPA, shown) - however no one in Houston will sell me these particular sized "10" long" CV-joint style clamps. What's up with that? Where can I order this style clamp on line ? I got the name of two local drive-line shops that may have these clamps hanging around but, you know, "maybe"...

O'Reilly had another style CV-joint band clamp - however it requires a "GearWrench" tool to install, not stocked (will arrive Wednesday). I'm not certain the tool will fit in the space allotted - we'll see.

So another weekend has passed by, and I still cannot put this thing back together to my satisfaction.



OEM wire, with outside clamp I am unable to install this as-designed - I can't keep it on the rack rim and twist it at the same time.

this is the cv-boot style clamp that was removed from the aftermarket rack itre

another pic of the cv-boot style clamp

the clamp is 10" long

the wrench necessary to install the cv-boot style clamps

the "other" style of cv boot clamp

Gearwrench tool to install the "other style"

closeup of the "other" tool

 

Exactly the same for my Tacoma. I used a heavy zip tie because I don't want to buy the special crimping tool.

 

And so how many of all these zip ties are still in place after <however many miles> ?

I mean...its my first and will probably be my only Nissan product. It seems like every time I take a shortcut, I end up hearing “well you shouldnt have done that that way, you should’a done it the factory way”.

i had planned on the factory way (the wire). If there was anyone on the internet that knew how to install that wire i figure i woulda found’em by now. So no wire.

So Im trying to go with what the rebuilder installed (my PlanB) - it seems much more akin to OEM than a plastic zip tie.

Im also working a PlanC - the Gearmasters CV joint clamp. I’ll have to wait until Wednesday at the earliest.

I have that familiar feeling “you’re on the path of most resistance” - but I dont know why I shouid have to compromise / why I cant put it back together myself the way a professional would, if only for lack of parts.

I mean what year is this anyway ?

BrianA in Houston

 

Over 6 years and 50,000 miles.

 

If you're dead set of using the locking wire, why can't you use vice grips and try to emulate a lock wire tool?

 

Thank you. I’m not “dead set” on anything. I am only trying to end up with “metal” as the band clamp material.

I was unable to keep both loops of the wire around the appropriate channel on the bellows even before I got to the part about wrapping the loops around 4 to 4.5 times.

Perhaps I should be using vice grips instead, as you suggest. A counter guy talked about using the tool concrete workers use to twist rebar wire...but I didnt make it back to that.

What I really wanted was the “side ear” cv-band clamps like came with the rebuilt rack. Cant believe I can’t find these locally at a place open on the weekend.

Would still like a hint re where to get 10” cv-joint band clamps online from someone in the know.

 

I completed the driver's side ITRE and have moved onto the passenger's side - have already dis-assembled, look forward to assembling tonight and alignment tomorrow morning. The passenger side looks like it will be tougher than the Driver's side as there is a heat shield in the way...anyone got a tip on how to effect access to the passenger's side end of the rack?

I ended up using Oetiker Size #62 ear clamps (what was on the rebuilt rack to begin with) to secure the driver's side boot to the rack, locked down with Knipex 1099 side-clamping pliers. I got the clamps (for $1/piece) and the tool (LOANED can you believe it) from a local shop "Pro Drive Axles". The pic of the tool below doesn't show the "side-clamping" side of the pliers but the tool is still out there on the Internet, Google "Knipex 1099".

Re: the wire - my new friend Jay @ Pro Drive Axles confirmed that the OEM wire is meant to be installed on the boots while the rack is out of the car.

I plan on returning the un-used NAPA tool (as it only works head-on, i.e. not with just the side access available) as well as the GearMasters stuff (tool never came in and probably wasn't going to fit anyway).


tool pictured upside down ignore the huge band clamps in the background

one side of the tool

the other side - says "Knipex 1099"

 

so...I got this done last weekend. I did both sides ITRE and OTRE, all Moog / Moog problem solver. I utilized the included locking tabs (the OEM design) with the huge forceps-looking pliers+magnets shown in my other post. I also used blue threadlocker. got it alinged right after, the boots are still attached and functioning, drives nice and straight

I used OEM boots.with Oetiker Size #62 ear clamps installed with a Knipex 1099 Front _and Side_ jaw pliers. I used the side jaws on driver's side, and the front jaws on the passenger's side. To get to the passenger's side, I had to unscrew the two lower bolts holding the heat shield in place - and then just kind of move/bend the heat shield up and out of the way to be able to catch the clamp with the front jaws _just so_. I did mangle two clamps on the passenger's side before I got it "just right".

This was all instead of using a zip tie. But a zip tie doesn't clamp down all the way around, and the plastic in the zip tie could be of poor quality/suffer heat expansion / contraction issues / chemical degradation etc. An "Oetiker" clamp seems to be precisely the best solution...so I am a little surprised that I only learned about "Oetiker" thru this recent experience. "What's up with that?"

I am surprised to have never read about" "Oetiker" clamps before in the 4thG that I've been a member of for a while now (along with lots of others have been here even longer and still seemingly actively participate)...

Anyways. Passenger side LCA is on the way to failure once a MF-again due to massive never-corrected UOP leak - so it still shakes a little more than I'd like at higher speeds given all the work already performed but GD I can't ever seem to get that UOP fixed to save my life given the labor involved.

Still needs brakes and rotors - which I've already bought (Brembo rotors, Powerstop pads and calipers (splurge) and stainless brake lines (as recommended here) but still need to install. a four wheel brake job with small component upgrades and a fluid flush.

Also - so much for my "all OEM all the time" mantra. I hope the aftermarket parts don't F up my sh*t.

BrianA in Houston