Hello all, first time posting. Just recently got a '99 Maxima, very nice condition. Was looking to start giving it a better look. I've done quite a bit of research and have narrowed it down to some G35 18/8's wheels, 235/40/18 tires. Mostly thanks to these forums, so thank you for that.
Now...the hard part.
I really, really don't feel like lowering the car. Mostly due to being afraid of if it ain't broke, don't mess with it ideals. I haven't built myself up I guess. So the real question is...what does a car, that has 16' stock wheels, look like with 18' ,235 tires on it? Does it look like a 4x4? Cause I don't care for that at all. I like a solid look, nice and square, if that makes sense. It's hard to find pictures on the net to that actually detail, "18' wheel, not lowered". I usually can't tell if it's lowered or not, unless it's stated.
I could maybe lower in the future...but I just really don't want to spend a lot of money, right up front, just for 1-1.5 inches of drop. I'm new.
So what do you think? Should I wait for more cash and go for the drop...or are G35 18's a nice look just slapped on?

Also. The trim kits.
Are these able to be installed by a average/above average "kinda familiar with tools/working on stuff" guy/gal? They don't look like much to mess with. Or would it be safer to let a body guy install such? They would already be painted.

Anyways. Thank you for any feedback.

 

I'm guessing that you are more concerned with how the car looks rather than how well it runs, or how dependable it might be?

Also that you don't mind spending more of wheels, tires, and brick-a-brack than you probably paid for the car?

Please tell us about the mechanical condition of the car.

Since your car is a 1999, you need to learn about its alarm system.


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As I said, it's in very nice condition. It's been in my family since it was bought new. My Uncle has worked at a Nissan dealership for a few decades. he ordered it. He maintained it. He gave it to me twenty years later. No cost.
It's in very good condition. I would say mint. The leather seats, and interior is perfect. The only spot is on the front fender..looks like a very small crease in the metal. It's tiny, and wouldn't be seen by most unless you got picky.
I was going to buy a brand new car for traveling longer distances, due to me owning mostly trucks, and this getting better mileage.. This car is in as good of condition as a new car. So why bother buying a brand new one?
But, it needs to be updated to more of a modern look imo. And mostly, imo, that consist of wheels/tires. And maybe a trim kit, idk. I'm 50/50 with them.
I'm not much into the "cool kids" with lowered vehicles. But worry about this "4x4" look people have talked about.

 

I had a 4th gen parts car with those g35 ciupe wheels, 18x8. It was dropped on H&R ~1.5" drop springs and looked pretty good. Itaybe had a couple finger gap between the tire and fender arch, nothing crazy but it was simple and clean. Deloa84 was his username on here, he might have put of pics up on here after he dropped it.

Going to a bigger wheel with a smaller side wall at stock height will look a little off, especially with the lower offset of the g wheels.
I would recommend a small drop with h&r, eibach, or tein h-tech springs. (Stay away from tein s-tech!)

If youre still unsure, start with the wheels and see how you like the looks. Then you can see if you still want a mild drop.

 

I was going to do just that..just buy the wheels/tires, see what it looks like. But I was worried I would be all "omg that looks terrible...now I need to spend another $500-$1000?"
I found some wheels on ebay. For four it's around $600, professionally refinished. Tires, roughly $400-$600. And new struts/springs about $500 without labor, cause I don't know how to put those on.
It's just a fast $2000, for a "look" I hope that's worth it. I guess that's why you probably don't see many without a drop of some kind..must not look very good.
I always just worry about doing to much, and end up with more problems. But I guess springs/struts would be an improvement?
Well, I guess I could just save up for awhile. Just drive it the way it is I guess. It's just when you see another one with updated wheels and tires it's like...daaang. LoL.

 

Please pardon what I said.

We have seen a lot of young people buy an old 4th gen Maxima. The first thing they want to do is change the wheel's and tires, add a body kit, want to add performance equipment.

All to often the car has experienced twenty years of use, abuse, then neglect. Usually the cooling system leaks, the engine leaks, it needs a lot of deferred maintenance. Which they don't want to do.

What follows is a huge fluster cluck.

Best of luck with your car.

I've had mine almost 14 years now. It still runs excellent at 220,000 miles.

 

Based on the drive-line issues lowering can and has create(ed), I’d advise to control one’s self and limit the drop to no more than right about 1.5” +.

I also use the H&Rs and have for the past number of years along with a 235/45/18 tire and have experienced zero problems.

 

That's what I mostly worry about, the so called "issues" that come with altering, lowering or lifting vehicles. I usually prefer as close to stock as possible, and just change features like wheels/tires/trim. But the core remain the same, for safety's sake.

It's just I don't think I can get that look, with the stock wheels. And in order to change that, lowering may be the only option. Which makes me rethink what I should do with this car. I would HATE to mess this car up after it was gifted to me, and been in such great shape all these years.
From doing research I had made the choice that if I did drop it, 1.5 was the red line. And I thank these forums for that info. Just a lot of cash just for an inch or so. So my mind is going "how bad can it be?" But..as I said before, there's probably a reason you don't see pics of a stock Maxima with 17-18inch wheels.

@JvG
Oh I understand. That's why my Uncle gave me this car...well one reason is I didn't own a car, all trucks, and also he knew if he sold it, it would've probably be in the junkyard in a few years from some teenager. I'm in my 40's, and barely hit passing gear anymore, lol. He wanted it to be taken care of, and I usually do well keeping things together, and fixing all my own stuff. But once we get into springs/struts, I lack confidence. Mostly due to, I don't want to screw it up.
This Maxima has right at 90k miles on it after 20 years. So I would think it would have many miles left in it, as far as engine/trans. With age being the major factor here. I mostly worry about seals more than anything else. Eventually they dry up and leaks began. But right now the engine looks dry, as well as the under belly, but we'll see.

 

I've have no complaints with my lowered 4th gens. One reason, is I replace the suspensions (control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends), and get the CV axles all up to tip top condition before I put on H&R lowering springs and Koni Orange struts (for slightly lowered suspensions). The suspension needs to be in good shape before you start altering suspension geometry and causing additional stress. All I can say is get ready to spend some $$$$ to get your suspension in shape for lowering.

I'm running two 4th gens with identical suspension setups. Except the 99 model has the SE thicker anti-sway bar and an Addco rear sway bar. The other is the stock GLE setup with the additional SE plates.

Both are very capable and reliable workhorse cars. Just search for Koni and you'll see posts here on how members have improved their 4th gen suspensions.

The 99 model SE with 18 inch Maxima wheels.



The 98 model GLE with 17 Nissan Juke wheels.

 

There are a few nice aftermarket wheel options in the 500-600 range new. I personally like the OZ Ultraleggera reps being sold under "AVID.1 AV-20" as they are sized pretty well (18x8 +35 my preference). I would recommend just going with a set of aftermarket lowering springs and upgraded struts as that also enhances the handling characteristics (as well as looks).

What state/city are you in?

 

Tennessee, closest big city is Jackson. Which is in West TN.

 

Another question I wanted to ask was about gas octane. I want to use the owner's manual required octane, which I assume is the 93 Octane at the pump. Problem is, I found out today my family member I got the car from has been buying regular 87, since it's birth. And burned Ethanol when it started becoming available...!!
I don't burn Eth is ANYTHING I own. Mostly because my newest vehicle is 2003 Ford Truck, and non-ethanol is what it was built for. So....after 20 years, of burning the wrong gas...no knock sensor is alerted. No check engine light. Would it be ok to switch now to 93?
I feel the answer would be yes. The few people I have asked(mechanic) said he'd burn the cheapest I could get.....yeah. That's why I do most of my own mechanic work.
What do you think? Ok to change to Premium(93)?
It's that "if it ain't broke don't fix it" stuff that keeps me up at night. But....the car. It deserves, imo the correct fuel. Opinions?

 

I recently did that with an ‘03 Grand Prix with the super charger. It ran pretty well with the low octane and ran fine with high octane. However it did seem to have issues adjusting the fuel/air mixture after the adjustment. Seemed to hunt during idle a bit, swapped to mid grade and the hunting went away.

 

Ethanol gas is all that is available in most parts of the country. My car has burned ethanol premium for close to 14 years. No problem.

Our cars were designed to burn premium for best performance. The knock sensor will dail back the timing if it detects knocking from 87 gas.

Our cars were intended for those who don't mind spending some extra money for a fun ride.
People who didn't care about performance and wanted better mileage bought 4 cylinder Toyota Camry instead.

 

I've had nightmares with other vehicles(Ford/GMC mostly), lawnmowers/ATV's/other small engines because of Ethanol. Switching back to non-Ethanol+some Seafoam for a bit works like a charm.
This Maxima worried me after I heard the news, but seems to run fine. I do noticed it seems awful peppy while in gear(it's automatic). Like for instance, shift into Reverse, the car pulls itself very well, almost like it's idle/mix screw has been turned up a bit. The RPM seems within range. Around 650-750 in park? I'm not used to that. I can shift to D(rive) and mostly hover over the brake it pull so much. Is that normal? Maybe because it's a much lighter vehicle than my trucks.

I am using the higher Octane as of today. And some cleaner(Seafoam). Put about 40 miles on it afterwards. Noticed something new. I replaced the air filter (Napa Gold). And did an oil/filter change. And let it start back up to cycle through. About a min or two in the idle dropped about 200rpm for about 2-3 seconds. Kinda fluttered. Then back up nice and smooth. I let it sit there for another min or so....kinda did it again for about a second. Hasn't done that since I've owned it. Could it be the change in the fuel? The Seafoam working on injectors? Maybe I should check the plugs? It only did it while in Park, didn't get close to stalling or anything, only dropped to about 500rpm. Just thought it was odd. I plan to keep on running higher Octane and engine/injector cleaner for awhile on each fill up. Perhaps some of these things have to work their way thru?

 

I've been running 93 octane "contains up to 10% ethanol" Exxon/Mobil fuel in my car since I bought it brand new in MAR of 1999.

Although I had the fuel injectors rebuilt ~ 3 years ago, I don't attribute that needed work or any other fuel system related issue to the gasoline.

There's no question that the routine use of fuel system or injector cleaners and/or fuel additives is a plus, but those supplements are needed ... ethanol fuel or not.

If you care for your car like a valued friend on whom you depend for your day-to-day needs, and not like that hammer you throw back into your tool box and forget until the next time you need it, it'll take care you as well.