My mechanic recently replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 1996 Maxima with 282,000 miles that I have owned since new. The nipple on the Air Resonator box going to the intake manifold broke off when removing the large rock hard vacuum hose. Nissan dealer only sells the resonator box along with other parts to the air box assembly for $256 which I do not need. A few years ago, I had already replaced the accordian- type part that attaches to the throttle body. I got a resonator box at the junk yard that is in great shape, including the two large nipples for vacuum hoses. The two large hoses from the junk yard car were obviously original like on my car, but I was able to remove the hoses without breaking off the nipples. Rather than chance breaking the nipples on the replacement part, I found that the vacuum hose going to the manifold for $48 from Niissan and other large resonator hose is probably the same price. Are aftermarket hoses comparable to OEM hose from Nissan for this application?

Also, I am having my mechanic replace the Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid, due to EVAP code P1443. The guy on CarToys website recommended replacing all of the hoses connected to the EVAP system when fixing check engine problem. I want to replace the other rubber hoses on the engine, such as the hoses from power steering reservoir down to the metal cooler lines that have been leaking for years, that are original and are rock hard as well. However, several of the hoses are pre-formed and are aftermarket hoses available for these applications?

 

You need to know that the vapor purge solinoid dies because the charcoal canister near the gas tank breaks down. Engine vacuum will suck those particles through the vacuum lines towards the vapor purge unit. They will also plug other things on the way there. Should he find charcoal in the vacuum lines, the charcoal unit needs to be replaced.

Our cars need more and more work as they age.
This is affordable if we do our own labor.

You listed a lot of deferred maintainance in you previous post. The work you are having him do now will cost yet more.

I agree with your mechanic. Your car is at the point where you need to move on. Continued small and medium repairs will cost far more than the car is worth. Other lower mileage cars like ours are available if you look

 

JvG,
I appreciate your feedback on my Maxima. The sentimentality about my favorite of all-times car continues to get the best of me. One of my problems with selling the Maxima and my other old cars/truck is I do not know what to try to sell it for. I know I will never come close to getting anywhere close to what I have put into repairs just in the last 2-3 years. I guess I just need to bite the bullet, close my eyes and sell it, my Ranger and Cutlass and move on and try to find a reliable back-up car or SUV for myself and my wife.
Tommy

 

Tommy,

take a look at other 4th Gen maximas on Craigslist.
Look in southern and far western states.

Rust free lower mileage ones are still common.
You will pay abut 1500 dollars for a nice one.

That car will have issues as well, but probably has a longer life expectancy than yours, and with fewer problems.

 

it's always hard letting go of an old friend, ain't it?

 

JVG,
My mechanic finally got around to replacing the EVAP Canister Purge control solenoid to hopefully fix the P0443 code. He told me he had already checked the charcoal canister in rear and found it was fine before replacing the solenoid. He also replaced the air resonator box that was damaged when replacing the rear valve cover gasket. The Maxima was trying to stall before solenoid and resonator box were replaced, but is no longer idling bad now - just check engine light. I assume that the bad vacuum leak was caused by breather hose from resonator box to the front valve cover not attached to resonator box or was it possibly a combination of bad EVAP solenoid and breather hose not being attached? Nonetheless, after both problems were hopefully fixed and 443 code deleted, the check engine code came back on within 5 miles and with 443 code on again. My mechanic told me he would have to diagnose the 443 code again, but could not do so for 2 weeks. His shop is backed up with work constantly due to his shop's great reputation of honestly and quality work. Another shop that specializes in Japanese cars told me there are a lot of things to test with EVAP problems and would cost $90 to try to diagnose problem. Is the 443 code pointing to a specific EVAP problem area or could it be one of the other 4 or 5 EVAP parts causing the code of 443? I am continuing to look for another 1996 Maxima with lower mileage. I like to drive this Maxima primarily and would like to get rid of check engine light. Thanks for any of your expert advice!!
Tommy

Tommy

 

Tommy....

Don't know that info right now.

the 1995-1999 are all pretty much the same.

the early 5th gen like 2000-2001 ate very similar with the same engine.

I have the 1996 as well. I would be OK with all tose years.

the Infinity I-30 is the luxury version of the maxima.

don't pass on a good Maxima or InfinitI because it's not a 1996.


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Invest in a silicone hose kit and replace all those factory hoses with silicone hose that last almost forever!

 

pretty much what I did a few years ago. everything rubber under the hood was replaced with new rubber or silicone hoses depending on application
mine is over 25yo now and still drives like new.